1969 (soon to be) 2000ti TURBO INJECTION!

Actually, thinking about this, the key component to come from a Sherpa diesel will be the engine mountings together with the suttounding area of bodywork. That way you will be gauranteed that the installation is at least no less refined than the Sherpa one!

Chris
 
The L Series in the 600 went well - very torquey and high revving. Would be good to see one of these in a P6...
 
found a perkins flywheel clutch bellhousing and starter motor but its a bit pricy at £150 ( soon i will be asking for donations from everyone haha) but he wont sell the sump and oil pickup tube without selling me the whole engine. but as they are getting rare i suppose i dont have much choice.
 
Looks like you have an alloy sump there, out of a 620 I guess? Somewhere I've got a spare steel sump and pick up from a 220gti. It's different to the sherpa sump I have, not as deep I think but could be cut & shut to suit if you're interested, although I'm sure the one you have will fit, just maybe not suitable for rwd? You would probably be better off getting the whole engine if you could, especially if it still has all the anciliaries and mounts attached to the block, and if you're cunning you should take the oil squirters out of the prima and put them in the t-series :wink: . I still need to check for myself, but I'm sure the sherpa engine mounts (if they're the same as mine) will sit somewhere close and at a similar angle to where the v8 mounts sit on the crossmember.

Try to beat the seller down if you can, £150 is a little excessive for those few bits you've been offered, then you'll be bound to find someone local trying to shift the bits you're after for next to nothing!
 
Re: 1969 2000ti, twin cam TURBO INJECTION

Before you commit too much to this I think you need to swing the engine in an empty p6 engine bay to see how much of an issue the oil filter will become.

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On the sherpa (the one I gutted at least), the oil filter sits ahead of the front crossmember, followed by a large shallow area very similar to the v8 sump where the engine straddles the crossmember. Beware that if you modify the crossmember or tunnel in any way, the vehicle could become liable for the BIVA inspection and re-registration.
 
right well i will ring the guy tomorrow any ask if i could take the engine with it for that price and if not then continue the search i was thinking it was a little high but if they are getting rare then what can i expect? I'm struggeling with the loom at the moment there seems to be no wires to the O2 sensor, coolant sensor or alternator and a couple of wires that i cant work out waht there for.

This is the plug for the O2 sensor 4 pin
S1032745.jpg

and these are the spare plugs i have left the first i belive both to be the fuse box ?
S1032743.jpg

and these i have no idea
S1032744.jpg

both 2 pin
 
Interesting point on the oil filter, it does sit very close to the front of the engine, hence close to the cross member, T16 isn't very long and you've got the wasted spark setup so you should be able to push it right back in the engine bay, might just clear the crossmember. Failing that you might need a remote filter.

On another point, I've seen this done before and they've swapped the water pump setup over to the other side of the engine using M16 parts (early 820, 220 etc), might be worth remembering if you have space issues near the alternator.
 
well i will chuck it in and see what fits and what doesnt once iv got the old engine out and got my bell housing and stuff, i think i would just modify the crossmember slightly and neatly so it isnt easily noticed, thats if i dont get the whole engine.

so appently the 620ti engine loom doesnt include the temp sensor or alternator wiring but they are part of the body loom that then join to the engine loom from the other side of the bay which makes things more difficult. Any ideas?
 
tonight i have been through the loom with a multi meter and found one of the 2 pin plugs that i couldn't find a place for is for the EVAP which is not needed for my use and the other is for the turbo wastegate regulating valve which i dont understand, i cant find any evidence of this, any ideas
 
The wastegate valve is used to control the boost pressure, on the T16 they use it to reduce the boost at lower revs and limit the maximum boost, which gives them a very smooth torque curve, you don't get the big spike as the turbo kicks in. Also helps to protect the gearbox from shock loads.

A lot of the "tuners" remove that and fit a bleed type valve or mechanical regulator, which may be why you don't have one. You get the big kick which makes the car feel faster, but also unsettles the car, spins the wheels etc...

You certainly need either the propper valve, or a mechanical regulator, otherwise you will hit the boost cut in the ecu (assuming it hasn't been removed)
 
right ok, im not sure i get you, i have a waste gate (vacuume one) but dont understand how this is controled by the ecu ( no plug) a lad at work said the rally cars we build have a seperate unit on the inner wing but i forgot to look and said they arent connected its just for scutanering so im not really sure what to do as the wastegate is present but not the plug?
 
The ecu controls the vacuum to the wastegate, using the valve (that's missing), vacuum goes through the valve to the wastegate. If you put the vac directly to the wastegate it will open too early and you won't get full boost.

I think technically it's boost pressure that is fed to the wastegate, not vacuum, but it looks just like a vacuum line.

The valves do fail quite often on these, and the safest thing to do is connect the wastegate directly, which might be what has happened to yours. As stated, without the valve you will probably be missing a bit of power.

I'll see if I can get you a diagram.
 
I took the bottom part of the intake manifold off yesterday and gave it a lick of paint, im not going to go mad with painting it and bulls**ting it up but just going to make it presentable so im going with the same colour sceme as my dads v8
S1032406.jpg

so red intake black rocker covers and silver block and heads
Heres my intake manifold
S1032746.jpg

(yes they are spare injectors)
and also took the exhaust manifold and turbo off
S1032747.jpg

one of the nuts that held the down pipe on had rounded so i had to weld another nut onto the stud and remove the whole stud, but got there in the end

rick: if i use a standard machanical boost controller would this mean i would have the spike in the torque curve but get full boost (no lack of power)?

alistair
 
yeh thats the sort of thing i was talking about as with this being a budget build i dont want to pay £60 for something i can spend £15 on. i got the reluctor wheel out of the flywheel ready to put into the machined sherpa one when i have it, i got a few bits painted and bits bolted back on and now it looks like this
S1032748.jpg




got the old engine out today with no issues suprisingly, so it only took me a short mornings work so heres the dead one.
S1032749.jpg

S1032750.jpg

And the hole now free for the new engine.
S1032751.jpg
 
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