1969 (soon to be) 2000ti TURBO INJECTION!

[tolson2000sc]

im getting there with the inverted crossmember i will pick up some plate to make the mounts later today

it will be lower when its finished and i will hang the mount off the bottom with 2 bits of cut box section.
like this

 

[tolson2000sc]

Although I'm not sure you need anything on the front anyway, most rwd engine setups don't have anything like that, the Rover seems quite unusual with the stabiliser rods.

well im not using the mounts at the bottom as mounts but as beefed up engine steady bars which would be semi supportive while the one at the front would be the main mount.

 

[sowen]

To me it seems that making an arched crossmember to mount the single front mount is like trying to reinvent the wheel, it doesn't look like a clean, simple and elegant solution to the problem of locating the engine. Also, would it interfere with possible radiator and intercooler hose routing?

Just looking at this picture, is that a power steering pump sitting below the alternator and could it be removed?

If it could go, my initial thoughts, being as that you currently have a v8 spares car, you could remove or copy the crossmember mounts shown here (picture shamelessly stolen from Quattro's Sparky's winter/spring/summer/autumn work thread) and fit them to your crossmember exactly where you need them:

You then make the mount brackets to bolt to the block, and hey presto, a factory looking engine conversion with conventional tried and trusted mounts. You could then make a small bracket to bolt to the existing front engine mount to hold a conventional top steady like the v8.

 

[tolson2000sc]

i wish i had a photographic memory but we were talking about the engine sitting too low and too far back to use those v8 mounts, i will have another look and sift through some photos and see what i can do if anything it has been good practice with the welder if nothing else haha.

the powersteering pump is also the water pump so i was doing to leave it and run the fluid straight through a small reservoir.

 

[sowen]

My internet access is on a tiny netbook thingy so all the photos I see are quite small, so I often miss some of the finer details. The engine does look to sit a long way forward in that photo, possibly putting it in a similar position to where the v8 sits, not to mention they have similar positioned mounting bosses and are of a similar size low down on the block :wink:

If that was to work out, you could keep the existing alloy sump, which I guess would have a larger capacity due to being full length?

 

[tolson2000sc]

i will give it a look im on a netbook too so i know what you mean, i just think it may still be too low to get the mounts to fit.

 

[sowen]

If you could get a couple of clear photos from different angles, front, side, above and below of the drivers side around where the mount should go, I'm sure a good suggestion for how to do it would come along. One quick suggestion would be to see if it is possible to have a plate bolted to the front bosses, with maybe a swan neck style head going upwards to sit up over v8 style crossmember mounts?

 

[sowen]

Like this maybe

 

[tolson2000sc]

yeh it looks like a plan i will have a look but it may have to go up and then forward so im not sure how long i can make it and it still be stable.

 

[colnerov]

Hi, why not copy the P5B subframe engine mounts? A tube running parallel to the
engine from the front crossmember back to the chassis rail in the area of the
removed 2000 mounts with a mount of your choice to the bosses on the side of
the block.

 

[webmaster]

I'm not convinced about using that front mount as the main mount, it would put a lot of strain on the engine to gearbox joint, you really want the engine to sit level even with the gearbox removed.

On the 800 the main mounts are where the gearbox and engine join, almost in the middle of the combined engine-gearbox weight. That front mount is more of a stabiliser, and they also have a crossmember under the engine with another mount that sits under the engine-gearbox joint.

I may have missed something but where do the standard Sherpa / SD1 mounts go ?

 

[sowen]

I may have missed something but where do the standard Sherpa / SD1 mounts go ?

To me the sherpa mounts appear to sit rather too low for this particular application:

Using the oil filter as reference, the standard sherpa rwd style mounts could be sitting close to the lower face of the front crossmember. In my opinion, either standard sherpa mounts with a second crossmember underneath or swan neck mounts off the block to go to repositioned v8 mount plates sitting on top of the original crossmember are the best methods. Tolsen does however have the fwd ancilliary set-up still fitted which to me unfortunately looks to get in the way of both of these methods.

 

[webmaster]

Right, I see now. I agree they're not ideal are they.

I was thinking you could make mount further back along the block and pickup from the engine bay side rails, pretty much like the standard 4 pot mounts.

This would be pretty straight forward on the left(inlet) side of the block as there is virtually nothing there, but I presume exhaust manifold / turbo / ancillaries get in the way on the other side.

Or how about making the mounts go to the side rails but lower down so you've still got plenty of space above ? Similar to the sherpa setup but further back and slightly higher. You don't have the sump breather to worry about on the T16. It's the Exhaust side that's the real struggle.

I'm still sure you could get a supercharger (mini or merc etc..) on the intake side of the block, and ditch the turbo.

 

[webmaster]

Looking at the pics again, it's quite a long way from the block to the side rails.

I've knocked up this image of my proposed mounts.....

 

[webmaster]

Ok, I've been out to my collection of T16/M16 blocks with the camera.

M16 block is basically identical to the T16 except for the block breather stubb on the inlet side (T16 doesn't have one), so both sides of a stripped block look like this.





So the block appears to have 6 engine mount bolt holes on each side in pretty much the same place.

The T16 has the waterpump / paspump bolted to 4 (I think) of these on the exhaust side, in this pic you can see the 2 spare holes with a bracket bolted to them. You may be able to sneak in behind the pump mount to use 2 more and get an engine mount behind the water pump.



Back to the M16, these are the standard 800 engine mounting points at the gearbox end of the block, (T16 mounts are identical in the 820)

 

[webmaster]

Oh and finally, (tell me when you get bored), this is the front end of an M16, showing water pump on the other side of the block, and a standard seperate pas pump on the other side (which of course you could remove).

This water pump setup can be fitted to the T16.

 

[tolson2000sc]

the problen with the mounts that you have drawn wound be how low the engine sits as the mounting point sits slightly below the chassis rail which as sowen said is not the best as the mounts would face down.
but this is all useful info and im very greatful and here is a pic from work to reward you for your efforts

 

[tolson2000sc]

I have looked at the engine mounts tonight and i think im going back to the original plan and just as both sowen and webmaster have mentioned working off the six bosses on the sides of the block at the front. I will leave the auxillery mounting bracket on and grind it level to mount the engine mount on top, i started this but the grinder has died so gave up early.

Then made some plates to bolt to the bosses on the engine and weld the mounts to.

will try knock some mounts up tomorrow.

 

[tolson2000sc]

well ive drawn up some engine mount which i think are the easiest way with the mount on the chassis rail with a v8 bobbin.

and then a 90 degree peice off the engine.

and then made one up for the drivers side

 

[chrisyork]

That looks spot on. Much better than the earlier ideas.

Chris