I have checked and double checked everywhere for air leaks also I am positive I have floats set correctly.since original post says worse after removing carbs? do ensure we have no inlet air leaks ..easy to miss a bit of gasket or fail to seal correctly allowing extra air in and playing havoc with fuel /air mix and idle etc . assuming of course our reworked carbs are set ok? float level ? etc
Much truth in that post.I have been where you are before and the problem is that you often can't see your own mistakes - getting somebody else to check will usually throw up something.
Good luck - it might not feel like it now, but you will get there.
Hi I am in Barnet north London Herts borders. I be quite happy for someone else to check on my behalf if anyone could help. I would just like to get it back to where it was 3 months ago. I agree that the camshaft needed to be replaced anyway as it was shot. Thanks for your reply.Neil, whereabouts are you? maybe a member from here local to you can drop by and have a look with a fresh pair of eyes? Failing that, if nobody is close from this board maybe a post on www.v8forum.co.uk may help - they are a friendly bunch. I have been where you are before and the problem is that you often can't see your own mistakes - getting somebody else to check will usually throw up something.
The main thing is that you have managed to bed the cam in - so when you fix the problem now then it will run miles better than it ever did with the rounded off one.
Good luck - it might not feel like it now, but you will get there.
This is the same diagram as in the Rover manual and how I have set up. Thanks for the info.That´s, what I meant, page 29...
http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Range-Rover-Manual-Engine.pdf
Thanks I have already tried an electric pump feeding carbs from a petrol can. It didn't help.I have been reading this thread with interest, quite a problem you have there
Couple of things I have seen in the past, which may be of help.
1/. My car used to misfire, and refuse to tickover when I first bought it. When I picked him up and drove home, although it an awesome trip, I did have to use my right foot on both brake and throttle to stop it stalling at junctions. I did find that pulling the choke out helped with tickover, but it did run very rich when I did so. The problem was an intermittent fault on the coil feed wire. Mine was actually running through two of those awful scotchclip things. A good test would be to take a wire from the starter motor live, to the + coil, just to start it and check to see if it ticks over. Don't leave it connected too long as it will be live even with the ignition turned off. There were many electrical problems with my car which caused all sorts of weird problems, which is why he's called 'Sparky.'
2/. Bit of a long shot, but a mate of mine back many years ago had a similar problem. His rear exhaust box had disintegrated internally and caused a near full blockage of the exhaust. The only way to check this would be to remove the exhaust after the Y section and start it up. You may need to buy cakes for the neighbours first , it will make a racket.
Only other test I can think of is a biker trick I learned recently. Easier with a bike as they use gravity fed fuelling anyway, but you can get someone to help. Feed to carbs with a squeezy bottle. Make sure you connect a pipe to the pump side of the fuel system and feed this into a container, otherwise it will spit out everywhere. Be careful, my Brother set fire to his engine bay doing this badly, and lost most of his beard and an eyebrow trying to blow it out
best of luck