Now Worse After Removing Carbs

Hi all just another update. Today I bit the bullet received the carb overhaul kits and just spent 4 hours rebuilding both of them. All of the rubber seals were cracked and brittle so this was probably worthwhile. I have replaced float needles and seats along with new jets and needles. I now hope this cures my problem. One thing I did notice though was the left carb float chamber was completely dry while the right had a little fuel in it. I am not able to try to start her yet as I still have to refit fuel pump. This is a job for tomorrow. Fingers crossed she will be back up running again.
 
Unless you actually enjoy all this messing around (I know some people do) why not just take it to a garage that specialises in classic cars, or Rovers specifically, invest a bit of cash and get it sorted once and for all by someone who knows what they are doing? All this is baffling to me.
 
Neil was able to service his carbs on his own, so he will be able to go the rest of the way, I´m very sure.
The previous owner of my car always had service from a Jaguar-Rover specialist and they charges him all the years for 6,5 ltrs of engine oil. I like those specialists. And yes, there are real specialists around, but you have to find them. With the classic scene, a lot of semi-ones came up also.
 
Part of the enjoyment of classic cars is to repair them yourself. It is all back together and running to a fashion. Better than before but still not right. I know have a popping from the exhaust and a small back fire. One of the carbs was over fuelling my mistake on setting the float. Removed and reset but now have a leak from float seal. I did notice they were slightly different. So will get replacements for both. I will try back on points just in case the Powerspark kit is to blame. Failing that I am going to remove camshaft and check that. You are right I will get to the bottom of fault but I believe I may have more than one.
 
Neilr said:
Part of the enjoyment of classic cars is to repair them yourself.
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I fully appreciate that. Some people enjoy fixing them more than driving them (I am the opposite). But the tone of your posts suggested you were getting to the end of your tether and not enjoying the experience which is why I suggested you find a knowledgeable mechanic to solve your problem and get you back on the road.
 
I was getting frustrated as I could not see any reason for extra air being drawn it to fuel system. It was only when carbs were dismantled that it was apparent that all the rubber seals had cracked and perished. If I had put this into a garage this would have cost an extra £300 or so. I was also in the garage trade up until 19 years ago so have a reasonable knowledge of how a car works and am not afraid to tackle tasks. However I do not have a great knowledge of the V8 engine but I am slowly getting know it. It is reasonably simple to work on and with the work I have completed so far I feel confident that I can tackle all of it. I may make some mistakes along the way but that is how I learn. I had hoped that this car would give me more driving than repairing but that's life. If I cannot get to bottom of why this has started to play then as you suggest I will have to seek somewhere that understands classic cars. It will also mean transport cost on top of garage costs. I had hoped this forum would help as others may have also had problems. I am sorry to have upset you and perhaps I should stop using the forum.
 
Do not stop using this forum, there are so many helpful people here!! As Riddler said, he prefers driving them to repairing, similarly I prefare driving to fixing but given the car is 41 years old it needs a bit of both. Just wish the garage would take her to sort the gearbox out....
I had similar running issues this time last year, couldn't get anywhere with it so bit the bullet and got a mobile mechanic down, cost quite a bit but he sorted it, was a number of issues combined that I'd have never sorted, including failing fuel pump, carbs needed overhauling, timing, sorting connections on coil and draining about a gallon of petrol out of sump. Runs like a sawing machine now, just can't use it! Keep at it, it's well worth it.

Mick
 
Hello Neil! I really don't think you've upset any other forum members. Far from it. I think you might have misunderstood the tone of some of the advice that has been offered, I don't think anybody on here wants you to stop using this forum. Of course there are a few differences of opinion between forum members, but I reckon the majority of people who post on here have the same excellent can-do attitude as you've shown you have. As it happens, I had a problem with my SU HIF6 carbs the other year, which also turned out to be down to the rubber seals in the choke mechanism having perished. This forum gave me the courage to dismantle and rebuild them, which I was then able to do under the hands-on guidance of a friendly and sympathetic pro mechanic. I'm sure you'll get your car performing properly if you persist, with patience, and the help of some of the knowledgable people who visit this forum. Don't leave us, don't worry because I don't think you've upset anybody, do keep letting us know how you're getting on with fixing your car!
 
Agreed. You have not upset me in the slightest. I am always in awe of people who are prepared to take an engine apart and try and sort problems for themselves. I accept I do not have the knowledge, and really have no wish to gain that knowledge. My passion is owning and driving classic cars. You just seemed to be at your wit's end, which is why I advised that instead of asking for advice on the forum you sought professional help elsewhere. But that is no criticism of the forum, which I think is brilliant. There are many people on here with tremendous knowledge of the cars. And if you wish to fix them yourself that knowledge can be invaluable. The important thing is that you enjoy your car, whether it is fixing it or driving it!
 
Neilr said:
You are right I will get to the bottom of fault but I believe I may have more than one.
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That is quite likely the case, and you will also probably find it will be something really silly that was staring you in the face all the time, too.
Don't despair, and be methodical with what you do. It also helps to do one thing at a time, so if there is/isn't an improvement, you know what you last worked on and can rule it out for later.
 
Hi have completed a compression test now cyls 4,5,7 and 8 150 psi cyls 1,2 140 psi cyl 3 135 psi cyl 6 120 psi. Not sure if this is good or not. Still not running unless on choke and still wont rev. Have now reverted every thing back as it was when running properly so have hopefully eliminated all avenues, I would loved to have been driving her today.

My only problem is what to do next. I am considering calling a mobile tuning specialist in case I have missed something.

Failing this it a case of pulling heads off to check valves and replacing camshaft.
 
I would get a colour tune and check the mixture. Two is better one for each carb.

I have had something like this with sticking chokes on one carb. also i rebuilt carbs and used parts from a spare carb which caused me problems until I figured it out.

just go over everything again. make sure the HT leads are in the right order and spark plugs are firing ok.
 
Neilr said:
Hi have completed a compression test now cyls 4,5,7 and 8 150 psi cyls 1,2 140 psi cyl 3 135 psi cyl 6 120 psi. Not sure if this is good or not.
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The actual values aren't that important, what is ideal is anything with less than 5% variation between cylinders. So, the fact that you have a few at 150 and one at 120 is cause for further investigation.
 
John thanks I was told it was 10% variation which they are just about within. But I am still unsure how this would affect weak mixture on all cylinders.

I am going to attempt to replace the seal on the reserve tap which I have been unable to undo so will persevere with this as it is the only seal/gasket not replaced on the fuel side.
 
do re check your float levels. If it runs with the choke full on, that is when the jet is lowered, it may well be the floats are setting the fuel level too low. That would also stop it revving as there wouldn't be enough fuel to richen the mixture on acceleration. If you take the bells and pistons off and pull the choke on you should be able to see the fuel level in the jet.
 
there are many strange videos on Yout..., but this one is not too bad in assisting setting the float levels, as the SU manual has very tiny pictures :
Jörg
 
Neilr said:
John thanks I was told it was 10% variation which they are just about within. But I am still unsure how this would affect weak mixture on all cylinders.

I am going to attempt to replace the seal on the reserve tap which I have been unable to undo so will persevere with this as it is the only seal/gasket not replaced on the fuel side.
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Apologies, you are correct at 10%.
 
mtb_tuli said:
there are many strange videos on Yout..., but this one is not too bad in assisting setting the float levels, as the SU manual has very tiny pictures :
Jörg
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Jorg

Thanks for this link I have been setting floats incorrectly. I was using highest part of float so I presume that this could be causing carbs to flood. I will have to get some more float seals as they expand and cant be re used . Will hopefully give this a go tomorrow. Still not sure if this will cure problem but a step closer. Once again thanks.

Neil
 
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