Now Worse After Removing Carbs

Hi Neil,
Think, I had the similar problems with the manual from Burlen, it was not really clear to me, so I started look around.
Finally found a German (!) manual with much better illustrations and this video. Also have a look on the jet-needle guide in the main piston. Easier, but also worth looking twice, if the jet needle´s "heel" is plain with the bottom of the piston (and not plain with the groove in the middle).
Jörg
 
I made the same mistake the first time I set the floats in my carbs, having misunderstood the workshop manual. When I set them as described in that handy video, it made a huge difference! Hope you have the same positive result.
 
Well floats now set correctly. Still not cured my problem. I am now going to remove camshaft. Will update once its out.
 
Something I have just noticed is the rev counter doesn't always register. It drops back sometimes when trying to rev. Could this be a sign of a coil problem or just coincidence.
 
"I assume so as there is a cut out for screw to locate. Is there a picture anywhere?"
I found one of my carbs had this and the other had a plain cylindrical holder, also the bottoms of the pistons were of slightly different design but not immediately obvious until compared side by side - this is probably clutching at straws here but may be worth checking on your carbs?
 
Worth checking it.
Regarding rev counter I`m sure, there was a thread about it and it pointed to a electrical (wire) problem, but cannot find it.
 
ratwing said:
"I assume so as there is a cut out for screw to locate. Is there a picture anywhere?"
I found one of my carbs had this and the other had a plain cylindrical holder, also the bottoms of the pistons were of slightly different design but not immediately obvious until compared side by side - this is probably clutching at straws here but may be worth checking on your carbs?
Click to expand...
Hi both carbs are identical so I don't believe this is aproblem.
 
mtb_tuli said:
Did you check primary and secondary resistance of the coil ?
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I have now checked coil. 1.5 ohm on low tension (primary) 8.43 ohm on high tension side(secondary). LT side seem fine nut I am not sure HT side is right though as I thought it should be around 10
 
Another update to my saga. I decided to remove camshaft to day and this is what I found. Three lobes were virtually completely round and the remainder quite worn. The follower all came out through the top and none were seized. So it looks likely that this is part if not all of my running issues. Timing chain is also quite loose so again wont help.

I only had one of the long bolts through the water jackets break. So need to find a replacement.

One question about crankshaft oil seal it looks like it goes in from the back is this correct.

I am about to buy a kit from Rimmer Bros anyone else tried them.
 
If you are staying OEM for the cam, get the Range Rover 3.9 cam and new lifters.
It has a much nicer torque curve for the auto boxes.
 
If you are at this stage, have a look at Real Steel or V8Tuners, they are specialized on the engine side and any upgrade you want. I have learned here, that a better timing chain kit is preferred also. Finally it ended up not only with cam and followers, but also with tappets, shafts, chain-kit, oilpump upgrade, front crank seal upgrade.......
 
Hi.
I wouldn't use rimmers for anything
Had several bad issues in the past and many of the SD1 boys won't use anymore.
Clive.
 
clive P62 said:
Hi.
I wouldn't use rimmers for anything
Had several bad issues in the past and many of the SD1 boys won't use anymore.
Clive.
Click to expand...
I am going to order with v8 tuner really helpful guy. Thanks for all advice will post when its back together.
Neil.
 
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