Now Worse After Removing Carbs
- Thread starter Neilr
- Start date
classicalgreen
Active Member
since original post says worse after removing carbs? do ensure we have no inlet air leaks ..easy to miss a bit of gasket or fail to seal correctly allowing extra air in and playing havoc with fuel /air mix and idle etc . assuming of course our reworked carbs are set ok? float level ? etc
Neilr
Member
Well sorry I am unable to take pics as I have fitted it now. However I still have problems. I managed to run it @2000rpm for 15-20 mins to run in cam but it still wont run without choke. It got quite hot. It still wont rev either. Where do I go now do I cut my losses and let it go or do I now remove heads to check condition of the valves. I am truly gutted as I though I had found the problem.
Neilr
Member
I have checked and double checked everywhere for air leaks also I am positive I have floats set correctly.
Neil, whereabouts are you? maybe a member from here local to you can drop by and have a look with a fresh pair of eyes? Failing that, if nobody is close from this board maybe a post on www.v8forum.co.uk may help - they are a friendly bunch. I have been where you are before and the problem is that you often can't see your own mistakes - getting somebody else to check will usually throw up something.
The main thing is that you have managed to bed the cam in - so when you fix the problem now then it will run miles better than it ever did with the rounded off one.
Good luck - it might not feel like it now, but you will get there.
The main thing is that you have managed to bed the cam in - so when you fix the problem now then it will run miles better than it ever did with the rounded off one.
Good luck - it might not feel like it now, but you will get there.
unstable load
Well-Known Member
Much truth in that post.
Neilr
Member
Hi I am in Barnet north London Herts borders. I be quite happy for someone else to check on my behalf if anyone could help. I would just like to get it back to where it was 3 months ago. I agree that the camshaft needed to be replaced anyway as it was shot. Thanks for your reply.
classicalgreen
Active Member
some serious wear and pitting there. no doubt a few metal particles in sump too. hope we using a magnetic sump plug? ( i not removed mine yet so may be a case of pot calling kettle black) I have checked my cam in situ and am happy to keep it in place ( damn and to think I bought new cam and tappet set from Wins too- still one day .....)
mtb_tuli
Active Member
Following also your other thread, it´s like the other guys wrote, you should be sure, that cyl. 1 (with both valves closed) and TDC mark on your crank pulley is inline. There are profess indicators or you can make one from a spark plug, but for simply running the engine I would check with a straw or something similar which is not sharp and cannot fall into your cylinder !!! If TDC mark is 2 or 3 degr out of the range (as mine was), I cannot imagine that this will prevent running engine, if static timing was set correctly. You have taken off everything (incl dizzy) for the cam change, so how did you set the static timing ? With the wear on your old cam, did you watch valves opening and closing with the new cam when turning the engine, or is maybe something sticking ?
Neilr
Member
As far as I can tell I have set timing correctly as per manual. Cam keyway @ 9 o/clock crank keyway at 1 o/ clock both marks on sprockets 6 and 9 o/clock inline. Rotor set to no 1 cylinder. I could understand something could be sticking if the car was misfiring but that's not the case it just wont run without choke or rev.
I have bought another coil to try and am thinking about getting another pair of carbs.
I didn't and haven't checked valves opening and closing yet.
I have bought another coil to try and am thinking about getting another pair of carbs.
I didn't and haven't checked valves opening and closing yet.
mtb_tuli
Active Member
Hmh, can be wrong, but illustration in a range 3.5 manual, which I have on my Ipad, shows cam key at 9 (so far ok), but crank key at 3 with cyl 1 at TDC and then both marks on the sprockets are in-line (cam sprocket mark on 6, crank sprocket mark on 12). Before you take it apart, wait, am sure, here are guys, overhauling their engines between lunch and dinner....
I have been reading this thread with interest, quite a problem you have there 
Couple of things I have seen in the past, which may be of help.
1/. My car used to misfire, and refuse to tickover when I first bought it. When I picked him up and drove home, although it an awesome trip, I did have to use my right foot on both brake and throttle to stop it stalling at junctions. I did find that pulling the choke out helped with tickover, but it did run very rich when I did so. The problem was an intermittent fault on the coil feed wire. Mine was actually running through two of those awful scotchclip things. A good test would be to take a wire from the starter motor live, to the + coil, just to start it and check to see if it ticks over. Don't leave it connected too long as it will be live even with the ignition turned off. There were many electrical problems with my car which caused all sorts of weird problems, which is why he's called 'Sparky.'
2/. Bit of a long shot, but a mate of mine back many years ago had a similar problem. His rear exhaust box had disintegrated internally and caused a near full blockage of the exhaust. The only way to check this would be to remove the exhaust after the Y section and start it up. You may need to buy cakes for the neighbours first, it will make a racket.
Only other test I can think of is a biker trick I learned recently. Easier with a bike as they use gravity fed fuelling anyway, but you can get someone to help. Feed to carbs with a squeezy bottle. Make sure you connect a pipe to the pump side of the fuel system and feed this into a container, otherwise it will spit out everywhere. Be careful, my Brother set fire to his engine bay doing this badly, and lost most of his beard and an eyebrow trying to blow it out
best of luck
Couple of things I have seen in the past, which may be of help.
1/. My car used to misfire, and refuse to tickover when I first bought it. When I picked him up and drove home, although it an awesome trip, I did have to use my right foot on both brake and throttle to stop it stalling at junctions. I did find that pulling the choke out helped with tickover, but it did run very rich when I did so. The problem was an intermittent fault on the coil feed wire. Mine was actually running through two of those awful scotchclip things. A good test would be to take a wire from the starter motor live, to the + coil, just to start it and check to see if it ticks over. Don't leave it connected too long as it will be live even with the ignition turned off. There were many electrical problems with my car which caused all sorts of weird problems, which is why he's called 'Sparky.'
2/. Bit of a long shot, but a mate of mine back many years ago had a similar problem. His rear exhaust box had disintegrated internally and caused a near full blockage of the exhaust. The only way to check this would be to remove the exhaust after the Y section and start it up. You may need to buy cakes for the neighbours first
, it will make a racket. Only other test I can think of is a biker trick I learned recently. Easier with a bike as they use gravity fed fuelling anyway, but you can get someone to help. Feed to carbs with a squeezy bottle. Make sure you connect a pipe to the pump side of the fuel system and feed this into a container, otherwise it will spit out everywhere. Be careful, my Brother set fire to his engine bay doing this badly, and lost most of his beard and an eyebrow trying to blow it out
best of luck
mtb_tuli
Active Member
That´s, what I meant, page 29...
http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Range-Rover-Manual-Engine.pdf
http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Range-Rover-Manual-Engine.pdf
Neilr
Member
This is the same diagram as in the Rover manual and how I have set up. Thanks for the info.
Neilr
Member
Okay I have just tried again and discovered this. The car will run better and rev IF I cover the inlets of both carbs virtually closing them off. Also when doing this I can actually smell it running rich. So do I now try and change carbs for another pair. Do I change inlet manifold for another. I cant detect that its sucking air in anywhere else.
Exhaust is a new stainless steel system from manifolds back.
I am not convinced it is an electrical fault . But will try this anyway.
Thanks I have already tried an electric pump feeding carbs from a petrol can. It didn't help.I have been reading this thread with interest, quite a problem you have there
Couple of things I have seen in the past, which may be of help.
1/. My car used to misfire, and refuse to tickover when I first bought it. When I picked him up and drove home, although it an awesome trip, I did have to use my right foot on both brake and throttle to stop it stalling at junctions. I did find that pulling the choke out helped with tickover, but it did run very rich when I did so. The problem was an intermittent fault on the coil feed wire. Mine was actually running through two of those awful scotchclip things. A good test would be to take a wire from the starter motor live, to the + coil, just to start it and check to see if it ticks over. Don't leave it connected too long as it will be live even with the ignition turned off. There were many electrical problems with my car which caused all sorts of weird problems, which is why he's called 'Sparky.'
2/. Bit of a long shot, but a mate of mine back many years ago had a similar problem. His rear exhaust box had disintegrated internally and caused a near full blockage of the exhaust. The only way to check this would be to remove the exhaust after the Y section and start it up. You may need to buy cakes for the neighbours first
Only other test I can think of is a biker trick I learned recently. Easier with a bike as they use gravity fed fuelling anyway, but you can get someone to help. Feed to carbs with a squeezy bottle. Make sure you connect a pipe to the pump side of the fuel system and feed this into a container, otherwise it will spit out everywhere. Be careful, my Brother set fire to his engine bay doing this badly, and lost most of his beard and an eyebrow trying to blow it out
best of luck
Exhaust is a new stainless steel system from manifolds back.
I am not convinced it is an electrical fault . But will try this anyway.