My '72 P6 V8 is back in use on UK roads and once again wearing its silver on black 'K' plates!

Re: The optimist

mrtask said:
I've disconnected the front end of the prop shaft, but I am having trouble getting to the bolts attaching the rear end of the prop to the diff extension. The crossmember is in the way. I've jacked up the diff but can't get a socket on or an open ended spanner to fit on the rear-facing end of the four bolts.

The bolts should be on the rear (diff) side of the flange, and don't need to be held with a spanner because one of the flats on the bolt head is held by a register on the rear of the flange. All you need to do is lock the prop and undo the nuts.
 
Re: The optimist

Thanks for the advice Harvey. I should've realised the 'register' was deliberate, wondered why I couldn't get a socket in there or a wrench to fit!
 
Re: The optimist

Got my exhaust back from my mate in in a nearby lock-up who does a bit of paint spraying, mostly on Vespas. He's done a nice job, the entire system from the manifolds to the back box and tail pipe is now a uniform silver which looks really nice. According to the description on the tin the paint will harden further when it heats up with exhaust gas. It's all tucked away now waiting to be re-fitted.
Yesterday I decided I might as well strip my second factory intake manifold and clean it up prior to getting it painted. Trying to remove the temperature sensor on the top I managed to immediately snap off the hex head of not one but two small bolts. Fantastic. They are very small bolts, now there's two threaded sections left stuck in the manifold. Do I have to now attempt to drill them out? I suppose I have to rig up some sort of jig to ensure I drill absolutely straight each time. Fiddly.
Still haven't decided what paint to use. Can't afford to have the intake manifold, valve covers, carb shoulders and elbows all powder coated. I'd rather get the right shade of grey as a liquid paint. There are still some remnants of the original colour which I'll take to the paint supplier to have analysed and matched this afternoon. I'll ask their advice regarding paint choice. How hot will the intake manifold get on a hot summer afternoon during a flat-out run along the German Autobahn?
 
Re: The optimist

mrtask said:
How hot will the intake manifold get on a hot summer afternoon during a flat-out run along the German Autobahn?
That line momentarily gave me the feeling you get when you're enthusiastically motoring in your pride & joy at the height of summer.
A great feeling. 8)
 
Re: The optimist

An update. My man at Classic Wheels has kindly drilled out the rumps of the two bolts I had knackered on top of my intake manifold, and cut new threads to accept new bolts. Now they're metric, but hey, I'm not complaining, most importantly it'll work! I cleaned and masked all the visible engine parts before giving them to the painter in an adjacent Lock-up. He liberally applied two pack RAL 7031 'Blue-grey'. He returned the gleaming parts yesterday, and after a further period to fully harden I removed all the masking today. Tomorrow his colleague will let me have the valve covers back, after removing the new paint from the 'ribs' and 'Rover' design for me. I didn't trust myself not to f**k it up, and I don't have a good sander, so I left it to someone else to worry about out! I forgot to take my digital camera to the garage, but I'll take some snaps tomorrow. It all looks really smart now. I've got all the gaskets I need for reassembly bar a new valley gasket, and a new filter for the autobox. If I get them next week I ought to be able to close it all back up and get it installed in my restored Base Unit over the Easter weekend.
What engine oil should I use, this motor having been standing for a few years now with only an occassional brief start up and warm over for a quarter of an hour once or twice a year? I wondered if I should first flush it with a thinner cleaning oil before refilling with quality stuff. What do you guys recommend?
 
Re: The optimist

Look forward to seeing the pics Mr Task.

Personally I would always use a 20w-50 oil classic oil, but thats just my view

Richard
 
Re: The optimist

My oppo came and gave me a helping hand taking the engine and box out of my organ donor. We fitted the new gearbox filter and refitted the autobox oil pan and the eingine oil sump. I've gone for cork gaskets plus a smear of Loctite Super Gasket on both metal surfaces. Tomorrow I'll clean the engine and autobox thoroughly on the outside, and refit the exhaust manifolds. The drivers side motor mount was sheared clean through, don't suppose I'll be able to get a spare over the Easter weekend so will have to wait until next weekend to refit it all in my project chassis.
engine-out-goodfriday2010.jpg

easterfriday2010.jpg
 
Re: The optimist

This weekend I cleaned up the externals of my engine and gearbox. I've fitted the newly repapinted exhaust manifolds, and repainted the starter motor and solenoid. I repainted the power steering pump bracket, which looked pretty grotty. I found half a can of Halfords BMW Cosmic Black in the back of a cupboard, couldn't resist adding a bit of glitter where nobody will ever actually look! I also tidied up and repainted various brackets and fittings, such as the clamps holding the transmission cooler pipes to the sump, and the timing pointer by the pulleys. I got hold of some used but good motor mounts from an MG B V8, and I've had the metal mounting plates repainted in gloss black at the same time as my painter refinished my headlamp bowls.
I've refitted the shiny headlamp bowls using stainless Allen-head bolts and Nyloc nuts instead of pop rivets. I need to borrow the right thread cutter tomorrow and chase the paint out of the threads in the headlamp bowls for the fine-threaded plastic headlamp adjusters. Forgot to mask them up, they're clogged up so I've stripped a couple of the plastic threads on some adjusters. Good thing I've got two of everything, eh! The adjusting rings came up a treat with some 'Silver Bling' (!) spray, and the chrome finishing trims came up like new again with some polish. I've got a set of European sealed beam lamps to fit, which will dip the correct direction. It looks more like a car again when the lamps go back in. Somehow they're like eyes. It was blind for ages, now it looks as if it can see again!
I've got a mechanic mate coming over one evening this week to help me complete the engine transplant. I can't wait to get it installed and fit all the newly tarted-up intake, valve covers etc. that I've had refinished in 'Blue-Grey'. Watch this space for updates.
PAS-bracket-bmw-cosmic-black2.jpg

PAS-bracket-bmw-cosmic-black.jpg

sump-exhaust-motormounts-refinished.jpg

rovercraft-175bhp-3point5litre-v8.jpg
 
Re: The optimist

Hello Mr Task,

I see that your engine is fitted with an SD1 oil pressure transmitter. Have you replaced your original P6B gauge to suit that sender? The reason I ask is an SD1 sender is not matched to the P6 gauge, so it won't read correctly if at all.

Ron.
 
Re: The optimist

Hi Ron
Sharp eyes! Hmm, the answer is "I dunno"! The previous owner had it fitted along with an SD1 timing cover with no provision for a mechanical fuel pump. I know only that it cuts out the electric fuel pump if there isn't enough oil pressure. On the dashboard it always looked as if oil pressure was marginal, to be honest, it has always worried me a little. Would the P6 gauge (and I suspect I just have the original instrument) then display a lower pressure than in actuality, or a higher pressure, which would then indicate that my engine has very little pressure at operating temperatures? Now you've got me worried! Would an SD1 gauge fit in the P6 round instrument binnacle and not look out of place? I don't know what one looks like.
 
Re: The optimist

I did trial an SD1 sender some years ago,...a new one and it barely registered on the gauge. I tried a second hand one some years later and no reading at all.

The instruments fitted into the SD1 changed over the years of production, so I cannot say with any certainty if one will fit or not,...but at a guess I would suspect not. The early Range Rovers prior to 1975 used the same oil pressure transmitter as fitted to the P6B, so you could search for one of those instead. An alternative could be to buy a current oil pressure transmitter complete with gauge and fit the pair together.

Ron.
 
Re: The optimist

Presumeably you have an existing P6 transmitter on the other engine? Simply swap them over!

Chris
 
Re: The optimist

Dave, Simon, glad you're liking it! Thaks for the encouragement.

Chris, I wish it were that simple, but I no longer have the second engine, which found it's way into my mate's rubber bumper MG B GT that then got a 'Sebring' de-bumpered look, some 15" Superlites, my old Holley 390 on an Edelbrock intake, some 'block hugger' headers, and most importantly a wicked 'lumpy' cam, power being output through an LT77 5speed.

Ron, my eagle-eyed Antipodean friend, sorry if I'm being dim, but what exactly do you mean by 'current' transmitter and gauge? Do you mean something from out of one of the last Land Rover vehicles to have been fitted with a derivative of a 'Rover' V8 engine, say from a Range Rover, Defender or Discovery prior to the BMW powerplants? Or do you mean from the 'aftermarket', a multi-purpose item to fit various applications? If the latter, which brand(s) would you recommend? If the former, not being very familiar with those vehicles, would the more modern gauge 'fit' in my instrument cluster without looking out of place?

Is it possible to have my P6 guage recalibrated to work properly with the SD1 transmitter? Is that 'just' a case of changing the graphic on the face of the gauge, i.e. different markings? That is probably something I could do, being a graphic designer by trade. I remember reading an internet thread once by a fellow who had made his own instrument facings with dark graphics on white faces, which impressed me at the time. Can't remember if it was a P6 owner on here, or someone/somewhere else entirely. I do remember that it got me thinking about how one might cutomise the instrument fascia. Doubt that 'Ze Aussoritiez' here in Germany would like any such tampering if they noticed it though!'

I digress. My dear fellow Rover P6 afficionados, near and far afield, how best shall I proceed?
 
Re: The optimist

Without a doubt acquire a P6 transmitter. Ian is the obvious first port of call, if not then Colin at Kingsdown almost certainly has some.

Chris
 
Re: The optimist

Hello Mr Task,

As Chris said the best option is to try and obtain a P6B oil pressure transmitter. Failing that the next options are in no particular order...current sender and gauge by which I mean an aftermarket pair such as made by VDO. Next option is to have your P6B gauge recalibrated to suit the sender....bear in mind that there is no guarantee that the SD1 sender that you have is in tip top condition. Rimmer Bros have oil pressure transmitters for the SD1 and aftermarket gauges... http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID008885

As your engine has an SD1 timing cover, chances are that the oil pump front cover is also from an SD1 in which case the spigot which accepts the oil filter is a smaller diameter than those on the P6B. This is not a problem as the oil filters are very readily available as all Rover V8 engines from 1977 onwards used the same smaller diameter spigot.

Ron.
 
Re: The optimist

Thanks for the feedback chaps. Ron, I'm grateful for your clarification. I'm very much aware that I need to use an SD1 oil filter, but nonetheless thanks for pointing that out. So just to confirm, the thread on both a P6B and an SD1 oil pressure transmitter is the same? Doesn't say what thread size it is in my P6 workshop manual, and I haven't gfot an SD1 manual.
This forum is just so cool. I'm in correspondance with P6B faithful from Australia to New Zealand to California to Norway to Sweden, the list goes on, what a blinding resource!
 
Re: The optimist

mrtask wrote,...
So just to confirm, the thread on both a P6B and an SD1 oil pressure transmitter is the same?

Hello Mr Task,

Yes indeed,..the threads on both are identical.

Ron.
 
Re: The optimist

Thanks for confirming that Ron.
I just collected my four wings. The rusty bits were cut out and replaced with new metal. The tops of the rear wings where they extend up to the D-pillar had corroded through, and the front wings where they join the front valance were also shot. Now they're properly repaired, and covered with a thick application of primer, ready to be sanded and prepped for paint. Those were the last rusty bits that needed to be dealt with, which means my project car no longer has any corrosion! That's a really good feeling, let me tell you.
Update Oct 2011 - turns out the primer hid some really nasty bodges, after paying to have the supposedly 'repaired' wings sandblasted I was very disappointed to find out I had been properly tucked up. I've removed all mention of the garage concerned from this build thread, and needless to say I won't be doing business with them again, nor recommending them further. Cowboys. :cry: :evil: :!:
Still haven't refitted the engine, I'm waiting for a mechanic mate to find the time to give me a hand with that job. I'm expecting a NADA air filter box in the post soon, then I'll be able to cut a hole in my bonnet and fit the hood scoop. P6B oil pressure transmitter, NADA reserve tap, bracket and long reserve cable ordered, proper NADA petrol hoses also. It's coming together, albeit slooooowly...
 
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