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It's interesting to read that you've decided to stop using Lady C daily Dave. Part of my reasoning to sell HOT recently was not wanting to get sucked into a life of perpetual car maintenance and watching you taking yet another weekend off to change the head gasket to fit new valves etc made my...

I know what you mean, but when you've got a nice one and a not quite as nice one (and nowhere to put it) it's a little easier. I think the new owner will be able to build on the work I've put into it and make it a really nice P6.

Well, I showed a really enthusiastic guy around the car on Saturday and we agreed a sale! He left me a deposit and is collecting the car later this week. I'm pleased that he's going to carry on improving it over time and will be working on it with his Dad.

After almost 5 years of ownership I've decided it's time to sell my 2000TC. It's a very early series 1 first registered in February 1967 and UK market cars were only available from around November '66. Finished in Arden green it has real road presence. Regular forum members will no doubt have...

Held at Averham near Newark there will be a great display of classic cars and aircraft both static and in the air, including the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight. Admission is by ticket in advance only, but they're only a fiver and all proceeds go to the Air Ambulance. There's more info and...

It's just foam draught excluder from a DIY shop - it needs to be about 12mm x 12mm in cross section.

Sounds like your fuel lines or send unit have been messed about with. On a standard UK car there should be two fuel lines from the sender that go to the reserve tap in the engine bay. I think the olives are compression fit. The plastic hose is only a push fit onto the steel pipes anyway.

Thanks. I couldn't curve that flange without snipping and rewelding though, I tried shrinking it with the hammer but to be honest I got bored and nowhere near the right shape. I think a dedicated shrinker/stretcher tool would have done that in a couple of minutes though. I also forgot to add...

The NADA models were known as the 3500s in the US and the wiring diagram is on page 190 and 191 of my Haynes manual, component 49. It looks like it's fed from the fuse box on the inner wing.

Just had the call and it's passed so we're all systems go for Silverstone on Saturday! I need some sleep now.

At either end of the crossmember that the rear trailing arms are bolted to or, if you're happy with the sills, put the stands under the sill ends near the jacking points with some long bits of wood.

No drain tap I'm afraid, you'll have to figure out which line is the reserve (it usually has a lighter coloured hose) and disconnect that one - you'll see why when you take the sender out.

I've got them too, and they are right in the best spot for axle stands.

It's been a while since I updated this thread, but I've been busy chopping and welding and had a holiday thrown in for good measure. I decided to start at the front with the inner sill and floorpan repairs. Previously the floor pan had been dented in so I bashed it out, but I had no reference...

It's my understanding that the VIP cars were based on the NADA spec - all the US cars had electric fuel pumps under the back seat. NADA wiring diagrams are in the workshop manuals.

Good to see some progress on this Dave. I'm very familiar with the pile of underseal on the garage floor - and finding bits of it in the house weeks later! I completely stripped the bottom of HOT when I did the sills but I can't face doing on EMF yet so I've just cleared the bits I need to get...

This might help you Adam. http://www.caparovehicletechnologies.co ... e%2008.pdf It lists all the bore sizes for Girling/Wllwood type braking and clutch components so you can choose one from a car with cheap spares!

I think you're about on the money there Harvey.

I thought it looked like a Magnum 500 and I also reckon it would be worth breaking the angle grinder out so the 17's would fit. :D

It passed!! Had to rush down with another sealed beam bulb to get the ticket but all's well now.

As above, I need a new non pressurized radiator filler cap for my '67 2000TC with the separate header tank. The threads have corroded on mine and it doesn't seal properly anymore. Photo attached for reference. If you have one or know of a suitable alternative let me know. Thanks.

Thanks Jamie, I'm also getting a bit bored of it too. Feels like I've been cutting, welding an painting for about 4 years! Anyway it'll not need doing again once I'm done. I actually got some sill sections made up last year when I did the other side, but there no where near big enough this time.

Thanks Fraser, it's only practice and patience. The first patches and welding I did a few years ago weren't that good, but did the job. Now each time I do a repair I try to make it better than the last. Thanks for the offer of the front bumper, but I'll leave it as it is for now until I decide...

The Fuelly isn't looking too promising though.

Erm, yes, that was a while ago and I didn't think it was that urgent at the time because the passenger side sill looks like this. Patched, but much better welding than the drivers side. However, a bit of digging at a suspect lump inside the rear wheel arch left this. It's only the outer...