PAE .... Sleipnir???
- Thread starter rockdemon
- Start date
Thanks dave that's really useful.
On mine i think that's where the indicator flasher is ( swapped for a modern relay and ticks when you use the indicators...) ... I'll check again this evening but it's looking like mine has had a job done on it at some point!
I'm going to have to work out what should be where and fit it from scratch i think. I have an 11ac on the way now many thanks to Jim...
If anybody can provide the loom to the alternator i'll happily pay.....
Guessing the car hasnt been charging since i did the heads and the ignition light was only there in my head which is a special place at the best of times... Could do with at least one ok working car. becoming painful now....
Rich.
On mine i think that's where the indicator flasher is ( swapped for a modern relay and ticks when you use the indicators...) ... I'll check again this evening but it's looking like mine has had a job done on it at some point!
I'm going to have to work out what should be where and fit it from scratch i think. I have an 11ac on the way now many thanks to Jim...
If anybody can provide the loom to the alternator i'll happily pay.....
Guessing the car hasnt been charging since i did the heads and the ignition light was only there in my head which is a special place at the best of times... Could do with at least one ok working car. becoming painful now....
Rich.
in fact just had a flashback... (quite literally). When i first started taking the rocker covers off etc i hadnt disconnected the battery and there was a flash from the blue (apparently live wire) to the rocker cover. So that does sound like i've fried the alternator doesnt it! I'll go get my dunces hat.
testrider
Active Member
That could well be it! Looking at the photo of your alternator again, that short piece of blue wire is plugged into a female conector which could be the warning light wire. With the correct 11AC alternator that should plug directly into the back if it.
Here's a picture of mine if it helps - it's the brown/yellow wire.
Here's a picture of mine if it helps - it's the brown/yellow wire.
Hi Rich
Sleipnir really has got it in for you at the moment hasn't he!
I think you're right that you have a non original alternator and a messed around charging circuit.
Later series 1's do without the 6RA in favour of a different wiring set up that uses the ignition switch to kill the field to the alternator instead. But I'm pretty sure yours is old enough to have it. So you should have 11AC, 6RA,3AW and 4TR.
On the assumption that the wiring to this lot is all over the show and / or missing.... Why try and replicate the original set up? The 11AC isn't up to the job when working perfectly...
So, major wiring beckons to get to either a standard 11AC set up or to get to a later 18ACR set up. And even the ACR is a bit marginal. So why not cut losses and fit a generic modern alternator of - say - 100 A capacity? If you look on Ebay under Range Rover alternators, you'll find a huge choice at moderate cost - certainly less than a refurbed 11AC! Then you simply need the later alternator bracket that places the alternator outboard of the rocker cover. A modern alternator has all the electronics etc already on board, so the wiring to the ignition light is simply a single wire direct from the back of the alternator to the ignition lamp in the instrument cluster. That ought to be pretty easy to manage. The rest of the circuit is simply power cable straight to the back of the alternator which you already have. The rest you can simply abandon in situ.
The existing pulley will simply swop across to the new alternator and then the most difficult part of the job will be deciding how long a fan belt you need.
I may even have the relevant bracket in the garage...
Chris
Sleipnir really has got it in for you at the moment hasn't he!
I think you're right that you have a non original alternator and a messed around charging circuit.
Later series 1's do without the 6RA in favour of a different wiring set up that uses the ignition switch to kill the field to the alternator instead. But I'm pretty sure yours is old enough to have it. So you should have 11AC, 6RA,3AW and 4TR.
On the assumption that the wiring to this lot is all over the show and / or missing.... Why try and replicate the original set up? The 11AC isn't up to the job when working perfectly...
So, major wiring beckons to get to either a standard 11AC set up or to get to a later 18ACR set up. And even the ACR is a bit marginal. So why not cut losses and fit a generic modern alternator of - say - 100 A capacity? If you look on Ebay under Range Rover alternators, you'll find a huge choice at moderate cost - certainly less than a refurbed 11AC! Then you simply need the later alternator bracket that places the alternator outboard of the rocker cover. A modern alternator has all the electronics etc already on board, so the wiring to the ignition light is simply a single wire direct from the back of the alternator to the ignition lamp in the instrument cluster. That ought to be pretty easy to manage. The rest of the circuit is simply power cable straight to the back of the alternator which you already have. The rest you can simply abandon in situ.
The existing pulley will simply swop across to the new alternator and then the most difficult part of the job will be deciding how long a fan belt you need.
I may even have the relevant bracket in the garage...
Chris
You might be right in the end Chris but my OCD methodology of making sure what's there is right to start with is kicking in. I think i need to know that what i'm modifying is what i think it is.
I've got an 11AC and a 3aw on the way so will swap that on and get the circuit correct to start with. Can think of upgrading later....
I need to get methodical with it all i think. Still got the problem where if i put the interior light in anything that turns on the interior light will sound the horn and none of the brake electrics are linked up. So far i've got by leaving well alone but it's looking like that's not an option any more....
Rich
I've got an 11AC and a 3aw on the way so will swap that on and get the circuit correct to start with. Can think of upgrading later....
I need to get methodical with it all i think. Still got the problem where if i put the interior light in anything that turns on the interior light will sound the horn and none of the brake electrics are linked up. So far i've got by leaving well alone but it's looking like that's not an option any more....
Rich
OK, hadn't realised the electrical problems went wider than just the charging circuit!
Dave, you have the luxury of reasonably long journeys for your cars. Mine - and I think Rich's - get to do a significant part of their lives in short runs in traffic. The 11AC copes far less well under those circumstances. And it always has - my Father's new '73 3500S did around a mile each way to work and that didn't like it when brand new!
Chris
Dave, you have the luxury of reasonably long journeys for your cars. Mine - and I think Rich's - get to do a significant part of their lives in short runs in traffic. The 11AC copes far less well under those circumstances. And it always has - my Father's new '73 3500S did around a mile each way to work and that didn't like it when brand new!
Chris
I assume you meant something like this Chris?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=190807370181
See what you mean about electrically simple. Connect one wire and its as good as it is at the moment!
Can you hear the cogs whirring from there?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=190807370181
See what you mean about electrically simple. Connect one wire and its as good as it is at the moment!
Can you hear the cogs whirring from there?
Geordie Jim
Member
Rich,
I intend putting a later alternator on my V8 so if you can get your current set-up running for now I'll have a better solution for the future.
your'e not too far away for me to visit if you want me to.
I can see Chris Yorks point, 11Amp alternator max. output, but 100Amp is way over the top. Remember these are '70s cars with little electric loading, I haven't done any load calcs. but 28Amp would probably be enough.
The most common with the right frame size is 45Amp, and that is what I will be using.
We currently fit 80Amp alternators to machines that need 5A to 19A just to run the diesel engine, and then have a/c, heater blower and six 55 watt work lights as well as the normal lights plus ecu's solenoids etc, etc.
btw, started working on UCA again, SD1 heads. 3.9 cam. SD1 timing cover fitted. Next job rebuild the ZF 22. All due to the advice from forum members. Many thanks.
Jim.
I intend putting a later alternator on my V8 so if you can get your current set-up running for now I'll have a better solution for the future.
your'e not too far away for me to visit if you want me to.
I can see Chris Yorks point, 11Amp alternator max. output, but 100Amp is way over the top. Remember these are '70s cars with little electric loading, I haven't done any load calcs. but 28Amp would probably be enough.
The most common with the right frame size is 45Amp, and that is what I will be using.
We currently fit 80Amp alternators to machines that need 5A to 19A just to run the diesel engine, and then have a/c, heater blower and six 55 watt work lights as well as the normal lights plus ecu's solenoids etc, etc.
btw, started working on UCA again, SD1 heads. 3.9 cam. SD1 timing cover fitted. Next job rebuild the ZF 22. All due to the advice from forum members. Many thanks.
Jim.