P6B S Project Car

Checking more. if you look at WSM op 80.10.03 Heater controls- adjust - it shows the intermediate lever for the top flap oriented differently from your pic- the short end is pointing left-down, where yours is up -right...??
The mix of screws and pop rivets is really irritating!
 
jp928 said:
Checking more. if you look at WSM op 80.10.03 Heater controls- adjust - it shows the intermediate lever for the top flap oriented differently from your pic- the short end is pointing left-down, where yours is up -right...??
The mix of screws and pop rivets is really irritating!
Click to expand...

There seem to be a couple of variations over time in the heaters. My '65 2000 has the same heater linkage as shown in both my '67 version of the WSM and the later 2000-2200 manual version. The one I rebuilt is from my '68 2000 TC and is the one I have shown in the photos. The linkage for the air inlet flap is different in the arrangement of the levers and a tension/flex loop in the top link. I took a "before" photo to have a correct reference. I am not sure what version you have. The adjustment works the same for both version of the heater I have. Before and after photos below.
The logic of the screws and rivets escapes me. taking the unit apart was definitely irritating. I expect that my reassembled unit has the screws and rivets in different places than their original placement.Heater-14.JPGIMGP4098.JPG
 
One step forward, one backwards. Have worked out how to lock the arm onto the shaft, so that it can be adjusted once its all back on the car.
now i start trying to work out the orientation of that arm to the shaft and the lever that goes inside the car, i get into trouble. there is a static pin that looks like its a travel stop - visible in last pic of post #310. if I start with the inside lever at the upper end of its travel, and the top flap shut,and lock the lever (with failed splines) to the arm, and then move the lever downwards (ie,opening the flap), the flap opens, the intermediate lever goes over centre, and by the time the first arm gets to the limit pin, the flap is shut again. If I adjust the length of the wire from the intermediate lever to the flap so its open when the arm hits the limit pin things go haywire, and nothing makes sense.
Am I missing something here about this top flap lever? It doesnt take much travel to open the flap (ie to the first detent inside), what happens to the travel to the next 2 detents for fan speed? The WSM diagram shows the side lever on the casing upside down to what I see - the cutaways in the levers are all on the top on my heater, and Dak's, where op 80.10.03 shows only the top flap lever with its cutaway downwards, the other 2 are upwards.
 
Mine is a 1974 suffix D chassis, for what thats worth. Going to take pics of levers etc with top flap closed, open, closed after over centering of the levers,to see if anybody can advise whats going on, and if anything is awry on my unit.
Closed top flap
owzejDG.jpg

Open flap - its not stable here - it keeps trying to go over center and close again, as in last pic.
13DT0bJ.jpg

Over centered and closed again. Lever against the stop pin.
KxxDfZn.jpg


in case its of use to others who have stripped splines on one of these shafts...
where the shaft pokes through to engage the cast levers, its supported in a plate, with a small step down in dia, and after the spline there is a small nipple that sticks through the cast lever and the steel plate. The nipple isnt ong enough to fit a nut on, so...I removed the whole shaft,put it in the lathe, extended the stepped down part ~ 1/16 -3/32 along the shaft, then cut the original stepped down dia down to level with the spline dia. this enables more of the nipple to protrude through the cast lever. I then cut an M5 thread on the nipple - the metal is quite hard so i had to force the die on using the lathe tailstock, and wind the chuck by hand to get the thread cut. in the last pic you can see the shiny nut on the shaft. Should work on any of the shafts , but I havent tried to remove the other 2.
 
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That top dogleg is the other way round on mine

Top flap closed

101_1990.JPG

Top flap open, no fan on yet

101_1991.JPG

Top flap still open, fan on 2 speed

101_1992.JPG

The dog leg is there so you can open the top flap with the first motion of the lever, and then operates in a lost motion sense where the lever can be moved from flap open, no fan - to half fan - to full fan without the top flap moving.

I had all sorts of problems with mine, hence the pictures but it does work perfectly now with this configuration.

Richard
 
As Richard says, the motion of the top flap is complete once the inside lever is lowered to the first detent. The top flap stays open for the rest of the travel to the fully down detent. Only the fan speed changes as the inside lever if pushed down further, thus changing the amount of air flow from free flow to fully forced. I was lucky and it took very little adjustment to get my functioning properly when I reassembled the unit.
 
I was thinking that dogleg was wrong on mine, but how did it get that way? Unlikely to be an accident, as the piece that locks the wire into to it has the allen key socket facing out correctly ,and that would need to be removed and turned over. the other bit I had wrong in my head was how the lever on that shaft moves when the interior slide is moved - it pivots on the metal plate (with the electrical contacts, inside), so raising the slide (to closed) moved the shaft lever DOWN, pivots the cast lever clockwise - I had this backwards in my thinking. Richard's pics indicate the shaft lever goes DOWN from closed to open to fans , turning the shaft clockwise. how does the shaft lever go down, while the slide goes DOWN when there is a pivot inside? Any chance we can get the same pics, but show where the shaft lever is for each position please? The diagram in 80.10.03 shows the dogleg oriented the same as mine.
 
jp928 said:
I was thinking that dogleg was wrong on mine, but how did it get that way? Unlikely to be an accident, as the piece that locks the wire into to it has the allen key socket facing out correctly ,and that would need to be removed and turned over. the other bit I had wrong in my head was how the lever on that shaft moves when the interior slide is moved - it pivots on the metal plate (with the electrical contacts, inside), so raising the slide (to closed) moved the shaft lever DOWN, pivots the cast lever clockwise - I had this backwards in my thinking. Richard's pics indicate the shaft lever goes DOWN from closed to open to fans , turning the shaft clockwise. how does the shaft lever go down, while the slide goes DOWN when there is a pivot inside? Any chance we can get the same pics, but show where the shaft lever is for each position please? The diagram in 80.10.03 shows the dogleg oriented the same as mine.
Click to expand...

There is no pivot inside. The inside lever moves up and down with the shaft on the back of the heater. The linkage just provides the offset to the right hand side of the radio/centre console but is connected by the bolts solidly without any pivot. In order for the heater speed electrical switches to work correctly, the center of rotation corresponds to the location of the shaft on the back of the heater, not much closer to the switch/lever as one would assume from first look.
 
jp928 said:
I was thinking that dogleg was wrong on mine, but how did it get that way?
Click to expand...

Possibly been apart in the past as reassembled incorrectly. When I took my non functioning heater out to get it working, the controls looked like this: -

extend.jpg

It took me ages to work out that the top actuating bar had been replaced, was too long, and badly adjusted.
 
So you think turn the top dogleg over?Hopefully the clipsurvives, but I have some E clips that should be able to do the same job...

does one of the flaps have foam on both sides?
thanks.
 
I have the dogleg turned over now, clips seem to have survived, all seems to work as shown by Richard's pics. Main question now is whats the orientation of the lever on that shaft with , say, the flap closed? horizontal, pointing up or down ?And how should the arms be arranged when putting the whole thing back on the bulkhead?
 
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I was referring to the articulated lever that goes inside the cabin....not visible in any pics so far.
 
Covered the rusty base (after killrust) with piece of galv steel - drilled out the old pop rivets, and added a couple of new ones. The old rivets were almost all rust. Had a piece of alloy sheet that was big enough, but thought would be tempting the corrosion gods too much.
My accelerator shaft grommit at the bulkhead is completely missing, and I have smelled hot engine stuff lately, so I have a grommit comming. The balljoint on the end is not too bad to remove, but the support bush bracket is a real PITA! behind the track rod and the roll bar makes things hard enough, and the PAS hoses dont help at all. Both bolts were tight all the way, so I will clean those threads up thoroughly before reassembly.

To ease re-assembly of the accelerator bracket I silver-soldered the bolts to the bracket, so I only need one spanner to refit it. Checking the parts book, my linkage is not shown - the end of my cross shaft has a male ball end bolted to it, then the double female ended link rod to the shaft to the carbs. There is a return spring hooked on the body that connects to the shaft end just by the balljoint.
 
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Not wanting to pull the heater again,I took the core to radiator man. From the fact that the inlet and outlet pipes are at the same end its obvious its a 2 pass type - coolant goes in, passes through HALF the tubes (cos there is a baffle) to the other end then back up the half of the tubes. The end cap with the in/out pipes has a ridge in the cantre for the baffle. my end cap was distorted outwards, which meant the coolant could take a short cut,and not do its job. radman said the baffle was not soldered to the end cap,so as well as cleaning the tubes, he soldered the baffle to cap after levelling it. see below - also in the pic is the accelerator shaft bracket with the bolts soldered to it. Better clean it and paint it methinks.
VuiuYsb.jpg
 
Got the accelerator shaft grommet in, but it was a real PITA! I think doing it from the engine side was not the way to go -probably better to drop the support bracket in the footwell and push the grommet outwards. Not easy working under there, but I had a very hard time getting the grommet lip over the edges of the hole . going to take my ribs a couple of days to recover from leaning in over the sill. Also,lots of dirty debris fell in from the engine side, and I am going to have to clean the carpet in there again.
Edit - looking at the inside end - not possible from inside due to the pedal being part of the shaft.
 
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Good news and bad. Getting the grommet on the accelerator shaft fitted in the hole properly has resulted in rib damage - every deep breath or twist in my torso results in a sort of crunch being felt - uncomfortable, but not really painful. Quack is checking Xray today in case its more serious. Hope to be able to reassemble the heater without going backwards.
Good bit - message from a local club member advised there was an exhaust system free to a good home somewhere local. Stuck my hand up, grabbed it. Front pipe from an outo was no use to me, but the two rear cans are in pretty good shape,despite some rust, even still have labels on them, Timax branded, one is RR70J. Olives present as well. Not guaranteed to fit, as there are part no changes along the way. My car has its two rear cans pipes welded up into one unit, and one can is bigger than it should be and rubs on the bodywork. Hope I can get them out without cutting.
 
There are a couple of better flange designs available now that aren't so fiddly to fit. I've found that the between cans joint is a real pain to get together and it's easier just to drop the axle and leave it tight anyway. At one point mine was welded right through but that makes all sorts of work harder so I've put joints in behind each header and after the rear cross member and i can now get it all in and out when I want.
 
Having the top half of my engine off did simplify fitting the throttle grommet but that bracket was a bas***d even under those circumstances.
And l wouldn't care to swap the reserve 'O' ring with the engine complete either.
 
The spare mufflers came with olives, but almost certainly off an auto - is the front muffler going to connect to my manual front pipe, or is the size wrong? the book lists olive gex7470 for autos, and GEX7439 for manuals...? Some sites list GEX7439 as fitting 2.5" pipes. The olives I have are 1.75" across the small diameter. MGBD list GEX7439 as fitting 2.25" pipes.
thanks
 
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