P6B S Project Car

Been there, done that....Back in about '82 as I recall...Thinking like you I fixed the 'air' side up nicely, which isn't easy as the tube is part of the wiring harness, After much testing and dismantling i found out the of/on switching is a different mechanism to the delay switching, though they are part of the same switch(es). In the end I prized the cover off the contact sets and found they didn't have enough spring in them/ weren't lined up properly. A little bending with a small screwdriver to increase tension and I got it working. PS its heaps easier if you take the time to take it all out of the car...but that has problems off its own.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
Thanks. First time I tried I took the whole wiper system off while I replaced the lower windscreen rubber seal, but later i got the delay unit off by itself. while I was playing with the white knob on the column housing the white bit came completely out.....At worst that should have continued wiping without delay, but didnt do anything...
 
In all the p6s I've owned over the years i've never had one where the variable delay changed very much. It is either lots, middle amount or very little/almost none. I've got it to work in the middle length and left it alone. At least one of my cars the tube was blocked or crushed in the harness. I have thought about making up an electric version using a blinker can, relay and potentiometer or rotary switch but no need at the moment. I do have some spare units if yours turns out to be irrepairable.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
My delay unit is a NOS item($$$), but the tiny bit of sponge in the top cavity had disintegrated, and it took some experimentation to get little valve to seal when vacuum was applied - used a tiny dab of vaseline to help it seal. maybe that has gone wrong ? will tear into it tomorrow.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
One of the easiest fixes in a long time! When I got the car the little return spring on the sliding part that pushes the plunger into the delay unit was sitting loose under the wiper assembly - eventually worked out where it went. It was a little distorted,so is not quite as strong as it should be. And then...when I dismantled and cleaned the wiper cable area inside I was a little generous with the grease, and the tiny amount on and under the plastic slide was enough to stop it being retracted by the slightly weakened spring, which would trigger the next wipe. A couple of hits with wd40 was enough to loosen the grip of the grease, and now its all working as documented. The delay is now 6-8 seconds, so there is no leak in the vacuum system, but I will have to test the knob on the column surround - it fell out as above last time I touched it. not going to open that an of worms untill I have to pull the steering wheel for some other reason.
Had to top up the oil since last run, getting down near the L mark, so she has used at least 500ml in maybe 500kms. Have not noticed blue smoke out the back, and leakage underneath is enough to have a catch tray there to save the floor, but its only drops.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
Went out in the rain today - too wet for the open clubbie. couple of kms out.....driver side wiper blade jumps ship! go without for another few kms, but its not good, action required. moved the near side blad to off side, but need to remove near side arm. Bit of a struggle, but got it off in the end. At least the delay thing is working consistently. New blades needed. One seller here reckons 18" will fit. Dont think so.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
Got some nice new 15" wiper blades, so thats fixed. now for the heater - fan makes a noise, but there is bugger-all detectable air flow. After removing the wipers and valance, removed the drain hoses on the sides. visible leaf debris in the holes, so the interior needs cleaning. Ordered new drain hoses. Did not enjoy disconnecting the arms inside from the heater arms! have a lovely 1/4-5/16 ring spanner, but its too long to swing unless the whole console is removed, and i dont want to do that...yet. fan control a little easier, a bit more accessible. Is removal of the unit going to require much juggling around the pas box? Accelerator shaft grommet completely absent, so ordered one from Scott - what do I have to dismantle to fit this?
Here is my lower seal...

If I cant find a genuine with economic shipping I will make something - maybe a length of round closed cell - 20mm?
Its been out before, as the wiring going in is not factory. Bit of wire brushing of the base and a vacuum upof the debris to come.
 
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quattro

Administrator
Staff member
Did not enjoy disconnecting the arms inside from the heater arms! have a lovely 1/4-5/16 ring spanner, but its too long to swing unless the whole console is removed,
I used a 1/4" drive and three extension bars onto a 5/16" socket, then undid them from the driver's side. If you have both of the knee bins open, with the little straps off, you can feed the extension bars through and it's fairly easy

Richard
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
I used a 1/4" drive and three extension bars onto a 5/16" socket, then undid them from the driver's side. If you have both of the knee bins open, with the little straps off, you can feed the extension bars through and it's fairly easy
It's a doddle, particularly as you don't have to remove the bolts, only slacken them a bit.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
Good to hear,will try approach on re-assembly.
Motor seems to run ok. major problem seems to have been failed splines on the shaft opening the main inlet flap , so now my problem is whats the correct alignment of the main slide & lever when the flap is shut? The notes in the book seem good, but how can I relate lever positions on the console with the levers on the heater off the car? i have small grub screws and taps, so I think I can arrange a way to over come the spline failure, but I will have to try to do it so I can change the line up when the heater is back in the car.
Radiator - book says "Release the fixings from the end cover." - with the cover off I only seem to have bits of metal that need bending?? The cover has had some mistreatment, a few dings and bends,and very non factory screws fixing it.
Having removed the motor & fan without noting its orientation with respect to the wires, which way is it supposed to turn?
Body is prettymuch free of rust.

Vertical seal is in reasonablecondition

Some rust on the bottom

End view showing disconnected shaft

End view with main flap lever connected, but whats the correct lineup ?
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
While I was in there (abbreviated to WYAIT, while you....) I moved the hose to the clutch master....and the cylinder moved. ?? on checking, the two horizontal bolts holding the adaptor in place were loose. very strange.
got the radiator out of the heaater casing, but it involved quite a bit of bending the casing in several places. Crazy.
 

DAK

Active Member
End view with main flap lever connected, but whats the correct lineup ?
[/QUOTE]
major problem seems to have been failed splines on the shaft opening the main inlet flap , so now my problem is whats the correct alignment of the main slide & lever when the flap is shut? The notes in the book seem good, but how can I relate lever positions on the console with the levers on the heater off the car? i have small grub screws and taps, so I think I can arrange a way to over come the spline failure, but I will have to try to do it so I can change the line up when the heater is back in the car.
When disassembling my heater I took the attached photo showing the alignment of the lever with the main inlet flap. I hope this is some help.
heater long flap-2.JPG
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
Thats the bottom flap isnt it ? Cant see a lever there ? my problem is the top flap under the screening plate, connected to the rh lever.
 

DAK

Active Member
That's the bottom flap isn't it ? Cant see a lever there ? my problem is the top flap under the screening plate, connected to the rh lever.
The photo is of the top flap, the longest one in the heater. You can see the orientation of the lever on the splined shaft to the flap. This is the photo I used to reattach the lever to my top heater flap during reassembly.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
You have lost me. the lever I speak of is the one that goes inside the car, on the rhS of the console. all I see here is a short cast lever . The lever inside the car on the RHS connects to a shaft that is splined to a large cast part, pic 3 in my post #310, but the splines have failed and the cast part is disconnected.
 

DAK

Active Member
You have lost me. the lever I speak of is the one that goes inside the car, on the rhS of the console. all I see here is a short cast lever . The lever inside the car on the RHS connects to a shaft that is splined to a large cast part, pic 3 in my post #310, but the splines have failed and the cast part is disconnected.
I thought you meant the lever on the flap shaft itself. Here is a photo of the 3 shafts on the back of the heater with the correct alignment. The lever to the air control level is casically in the horizontal position and you can see the orientation of the lever on the other end of the shaft. That is the one shaft that I did not dissassemble as part of my project so I have no precise measurement of the alignment. IMGP4096.JPG
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
Thats What I Need!!! many thanks. is the top flap closed or open in this view? Dont know if I will be able to get mine to look as good as that!
Re the side drain tubes - dont understand how they function - the holes in the case were completely clogged with leaves, and required simultaneous poking with a driver and application of a vacuum cleaner nozzle to clear. At least that can be done easily without pulling the whole unit.
 
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DAK

Active Member
Thats What I Need!!! many thanks. is the top flap closed or open in this view? Don't know if I will be able to get mine to look as good as that!
Re the side drain tubes - don't understand how they function - the holes in the case were completely clogged with leaves, and required simultaneous poking with a driver and application of a vacuum cleaner nozzle to clear. At least that can be done easily without pulling the whole unit.
I believe that the intake flap was almost or completely closed in the photo. My objective in taking the photo was to note the comparative angles of the levers at each end of the shafts rather than a particular position of the flaps.
Those external drain tubes just route the water that makes it into the heater inlet plenum away from the sides of the heater and off of the bulkhead "shelf", hopefully reducing corrosion of the bulkhead and the bottom of the heater. They work in conjunction with a couple of elbows inside the heater that route the water from the bottom of the plenum into these external tubes. The outer tubes are readily available as replacements. The inner elbows are not available and mine had disintegrated rendering the setup ineffective. Without them, any water that gets into the plenum flows through to the bottom of the heater. I was able to 3D print some new inner elbows to replace the old ones and the setup seems to work. I have read that some other folks have used plumbing elbows as a replacement solution for the inner elbows.
 
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