The inheiritance. 1976 P6b

questions

Hi guys

1. Do I need different wheel nuts if I am changing from factory steel wheels to 15inch P5 Rostyles?

2. Do I need to change the wheel studs? (ie length)

3. If I need new wheel nuts, where do I get them from? (or what sort to I need - tapered? what thread/pitch etc)

4. Can I get a boot lid liner from somewhere?

5. These:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... K:MEWAX:IT
item number: 110641321089

is classeparts a user on here? are these modified enough to make it worth purchasing over an off the shelf set of Gaz shocks? (I can't see where they have been modified).
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

You can use your standard wheel nuts and studs with the Rostyles. Only difference is that Rostyle nuts are shorter but mine has 'S' nuts and looks fine.
 
new boots

Luckily for me, Al saw these on ebay. No one else bid, so now I have p5 Rostyles waiting for a bit of a tidy up and some tyres:

Rostyles02.jpg


Rostyles01.jpg


The vendor was honest in his description, there's a little bit of surface corrosion but they'll come up looking pretty good with a polish and maybe a repaint:

Rostyles07.jpg


Rostyles06.jpg


Thanks Ron for alaying my fear that they wouldn't fit on my p6 and Al for giving me the heads up - the best part was that the vendor was only 20 mins away from my house. Too easy!
He also has a p5 with a swapped in V8 for sale if anyone is interested.
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

Those wheels look excellent, should look even better with some new centre badges and a repaint of the black sections. The small areas of corrosion are obviously going to be harder to fix but depending how noticeable they are it'll be a call on the balance of how much they annoy you vs. the cost of getting them sorted.

Is the P5 with the swapped V8 a matt black painted one? Think it was listed on ebay too for a while - were these wheels and the headrests etc they were selling from that car?

Re getting a boot liner, had a thought - you can probably get some big sheets of paper and trace the shape of the one i just pulled out of the red car to make one for yourself. It's just a reasonably stiff piece of thin flexible board so i would think it'd be pretty easy to make one up as there's only really one curve in it and it's just screwed into the lid and held in place with a couple of straight pieces of metal. Only tricky bit would be the 2 covers that hold it over the hinge brackets. I haven't fitted it into my car yet until I get some new screws since the old ones were v.rusted but i've removed it from the red bootlid.

Cheers,

Al
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

My pleasure Geoff. They will come up a treat and look tops once fitted.

I always refer to the boot lining as being made from fibre board. Reminds me of the stuff that the Globite school bags used to be made from.

Ron.
 
Re: The inheiritance. 1978 P6B

tvr_v8 said:
Those wheels look excellent, should look even better with some new centre badges and a repaint of the black sections. The small areas of corrosion are obviously going to be harder to fix but depending how noticeable they are it'll be a call on the balance of how much they annoy you vs. the cost of getting them sorted.

Is the P5 with the swapped V8 a matt black painted one? Think it was listed on ebay too for a while - were these wheels and the headrests etc they were selling from that car?

Re getting a boot liner, had a thought - you can probably get some big sheets of paper and trace the shape of the one i just pulled out of the red car to make one for yourself. It's just a reasonably stiff piece of thin flexible board so i would think it'd be pretty easy to make one up as there's only really one curve in it and it's just screwed into the lid and held in place with a couple of straight pieces of metal. Only tricky bit would be the 2 covers that hold it over the hinge brackets. I haven't fitted it into my car yet until I get some new screws since the old ones were v.rusted but i've removed it from the red bootlid.

Cheers,

Al
Click to expand...

Hey Al

yep, that's the one. I was thinking at work today "gee I wouldn't mind a p5b coupe, that'd be pretty neat actually..." then I had to slap myself a few times after thinking about how many cars I have.

I think if I give the black areas a spray and use a dremel on the polished bits the wheels will come up looking great.

My car's got the board and yeah, it should be pretty easy to copy I think. I was thinking that I may even steam some plyboard into shape and maybe stain it. Hmmmm. I nearly forgot too, did you keep the fake wood strips from the top of the rear doors by any chance? I saw somewhere too that people are using real wood. That's pretty cool.


sdyroverv8bloke said:
I always refer to the boot lining as being made from fibre board. Reminds me of the stuff that the Globite school bags used to be made from.
Click to expand...

yep, it reminds me of the same stuff that old picnic cases and suitcases used to be made of. I'm going to pretend that I'm too young to know what Globite bags are. :LOL:

(though I have a rough idea :wink: )

I've just come inside as my back is sore from leaning over, I was going to put the grommets in for the transmission kickdown linkage, that can wait, I have put the tie rod dampner rubber bushes on though. One of the old ones is literally squashed flat. I noticed that there are poly bushes out there but I think the rubber ones with a bit of give in them might be a bit better in terms of absorbing vibrations.
 
Classeparts is Alan Ramsbottom. His dampers are excellent, but I don't think anyone's done a baxk to back with the GAZ. Alan has put a bit of effort into locating the adjusters in positions you can get at them, but that really only affects the deal until you've got them set how you want them. If you can get GAZ locally I'd go for it! I have Alan's on the front of mine and my preferred setting is only a third of the way up the available range!

If you want a better looking boot lid liner then just cover it in some nice black boot carpet!

Chris
 
chrisyork said:
Classeparts is Alan Ramsbottom. His dampers are excellent, but I don't think anyone's done a baxk to back with the GAZ. Alan has put a bit of effort into locating the adjusters in positions you can get at them, but that really only affects the deal until you've got them set how you want them. If you can get GAZ locally I'd go for it! I have Alan's on the front of mine and my preferred setting is only a third of the way up the available range!

If you want a better looking boot lid liner then just cover it in some nice black boot carpet!

Chris
Click to expand...

Ah ok, I was just wondering how they differed to the same units available off the shelf. I don't think there are many Gaz stockists in Aus so I'd probably go through Classeparts. I only ask as I want to replace the shock absorbers/dampners at each corner only because I think that they are a bit tired (along with the rubber bushes throughout the suspension).
 
Once you get to use the car a bit more, you will really appreciate the difference decent shocks make at the front. Roundabouts and sharp changes of direction are a bit of a trial on standard dampers! For an even better result, also fit Alan's uprated front roll bar - might be preicey to post though - ask him to sell you the spec so you can get it made in Aus? Soft rear dampers also lead to lurid power slides away from rest. (or is that an advantage?)

Chris
 
Gaz are stupidly expensive here, last time i looked it was under 1/2 the price to have a set sent out from the UK including the shipping when i priced them up for the TVR.

Aus distributors wanted $300 per shock and would have had to source them from the UK anyway.

If you're planning on buying from the UK i could be tempted to take some too and we could maybe do a bulk order for a discount and combined shipping.

Cheers,

Al
 
chrisyork said:
Once you get to use the car a bit more, you will really appreciate the difference decent shocks make at the front. Roundabouts and sharp changes of direction are a bit of a trial on standard dampers! For an even better result, also fit Alan's uprated front roll bar - might be preicey to post though - ask him to sell you the spec so you can get it made in Aus? Soft rear dampers also lead to lurid power slides away from rest. (or is that an advantage?)

Chris
Click to expand...

To be honest, it's not actually that bad. However, it gets really unsettled over bad surfaces (Australia's roads are crap) and the Rostyles will also give me a chance to get some fresh rubber on as I'm sure that a year of sitting in the one spot hasn't helped the tyres either. I have a favourite small stretch of road with quite a few "flip flops" - ie sudden camber changes, blind corners etc, and it's actually pretty good, I get the feeling though that if it began to slide in the back it would all end in tears though.

I'm all for lurid power slides off the line, I'm just worried about breaking something! (like the diff bracket!)

tvr_v8 said:
Gaz are stupidly expensive here, last time i looked it was under 1/2 the price to have a set sent out from the UK including the shipping when i priced them up for the TVR.

Aus distributors wanted $300 per shock and would have had to source them from the UK anyway.

If you're planning on buying from the UK i could be tempted to take some too and we could maybe do a bulk order for a discount and combined shipping.

Cheers,

Al
Click to expand...

Cool, we'll have to sort something out. The transmission is holding up nicely (touch wood) and I should be giving it back for it's first service within the next fortnight. Kicks down nicely as well. Should be even better with the grommets in.
 
:(

Hopped in the car late last night, wound the drivers window down as it was muggy. All I could hear was the sound of metal rust flakes hitting the bottom of the door. It's getting worse every time I put the window up or down.

Any idea on what's rusted away inside the door? I'm going to stuff around with the transmission linkage tonight and possibly change the power steering filter, kinda bummed as I was hoping I wouldn't have to fix any rust for a long while yet.
 
Almost certainly the channel which holds the bottom of the glass. It's not structural :D It's part of the window lift mechanism and the only part not galvanised :roll:

Chris
 
The Good, the Bad and the Vibrationaney-thing

So. GOOD NEWS. I have found my missing kickdown bits and pieces after many hours of tearing apart my house, garage, store rooms, desk at work etc. I found them in my work bag. I think I put them in after a few beers because I don't remember putting them there.

Usually I drive another car to a station or tram stop and catch public transport into work or ride my Kawasaki in, today I thought I'd take the rover to my nans, then walk to the tram stop. Except it was so nice sitting there, cosseted inside, radio softly playing away, I ended up driving all the way to work in peak hour traffic. It was great! completely unfussed motoring. Best thing too was that I had a windscreen for my Kawasaki with me that I'm cutting down to make a summer screen, this way it didn't get battered on the tram or train (its big).

BAD news is that the drivers window lift mechanism seems to be on it's last legs.

The Vibration news - I was coming home on a freeway, doing 100km, there is the usual small niggling vibration coming through the accelerator pedal. I went to overtake some dumbarse in a volkswagon hatch, got up to around 130-140 and the vibration coming through the pedal was extremely severe. Is this a common problem? Any ideas what might be causing it?
 
ewokracing wrote,...
The Vibration news - I was coming home on a freeway, doing 100km, there is the usual small niggling vibration coming through the accelerator pedal. I went to overtake some dumbarse in a volkswagon hatch, got up to around 130-140 and the vibration coming through the pedal was extremely severe. Is this a common problem? Any ideas what might be causing it?
Click to expand...

Hello Geoff,

Front wheel vibration is typically felt through the steering wheel, rear wheel through the back of the front seats along with universal joints on the way out. Vibration through the accelerator pedal I have never felt before though, and to me this is most likely engine related. Is the vibration there if you just rev the engine, say 2500 to 3500 rpm?

Ron.
 
Ron - if I am in park or neutral and rev the engine, there's no vibration, it's only when the car is underway.

Ian - yes I wondered about that. The new tie rod rubber bushes that I got, one of them is almost already squashed flat from two small trips, so I'd say the engine is rocking a bit.

I also wonder if the tyres are out of round or something else.

I took a close up of the side of the heater assembly the other day:

180220118613edit.jpg


Is the hose pointed out with the blue arrows still available?

Any tricks for getting the little phillips head screws out that hold the locating plate? (see red arrow) I've let them soak with some Penetrene but they look like they'll snap off as soon as they spot a screwdriver and it's a bit awkward to get a hammer punch in there to loosen them off.

I basically want to clear out the rubbish (yellow arrow) that is blocking the drain pipe. The pipe hose itself has literally crumbled apart.

I noticed in both factory books that there is no part number either, is that because the heater is a Smiths item?
 
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