Scarab the Rover..

That earth strap is non standard, and not connected to the positive side of the coil, so will have no effect other than being an engine earth.
 
That earth strap is non standard, and not connected to the positive side of the coil, so will have no effect other than being an engine earth.

Yes your correct. I overlooked that. It is only earthing out on the body. (specsavers i think).
 
There is a little earth wire in the distributor which is worth checking. It normally runs from one of the fixings for the lower plate to a screw somehwere on the upper, moving plate. The wires tend to fraey inside the end fittings so visual inspection isn't enough. You have to actually tug on the wire and ensure it doesn't pull apart.

With regard the tacho you can disconnect it and join the two wires together and run the engine. That will tell you if the tach is your problem. You can also check to see if the case is earthing anything out at the same time.
 
Yes I am aware of the wire inside the dizzy. I have a classic with an A series engine. Again I'll look at that.
Thanks
 
If the car runs ok but just has a crappy idle or off idle i'd be looking at the carbs. particularly their balance and idle settings. it isn't unusual for the idle locknuts to come loose and close one carby down at idle. setting them is similar to A series SUs but you need to check that they are both working first. Easiest wasy is to remove the elbows and look don the throat on either side. If the slide is shut on one side then that will be it. you can use the lift pin to check that the slide is actually working and not sticking at bottom points.
 
So i rigged up a extension lead from the boot so i could put my timing gun on. I found the car running at 40 degree BTDC!

I have set it at around 6-8 degrees and the idle has calmed down a bit. Only thing i can do is road test it. Here goes......
 
i took the car for a run after setting the timing yesterday and have noticed a difference. When sitting under a railway bridge, the revs were lower and all i could really hear was the ticking from the back corner. (suspected worn camshaft as mentioned by you lovely lot). That will have to be put on hold as it's not annoying loud. I was off to see a mate to borrow his garage pit.

When over the pit i had a good chance to see underneath. I found 2 things that need attention. The sump gasket is leaking and spraying oil backwards. (i got a new rubber sump gasket with the car. i wonder why) and the engine mounts look past there best. I guess this would enhance the engine wobble a little. The rubbers are on order.

So next weekend, a mate (who knows alot better than me) is coming over to look at the carbs and fuel mixture. He'll also recheck the timing. 20220924_155203.jpg20220924_154917.jpg
 
The ticking from the back corner could be a blowing exhaust manifold at the head.
To find out which cylinder is lazy use an infra red temp reader on each manifold branch near the head to isolate a cooler one.
 
So i rigged up a extension lead from the boot so i could put my timing gun on. I found the car running at 40 degree BTDC!

I have set it at around 6-8 degrees and the idle has calmed down a bit. Only thing i can do is road test it. Here goes......

I checked my timing pointer and found it was 8° out. Have you checked the TDC mark is accurate?
 
No. In all honesty, I wouldn't know how. I only set the timing by reading the instructions. This is why a mate of mine is coming to look at all this. Hes a busy man so I have had to wait 3 weeks. It will cost me a slap up meal but hes the best I know who is local to me.

I'll ask him this question.
 
so today after waiting 3 weeks, my man came over to take a look. 1st job was to fit the new complete electronic dizzy. That wasn't as straight forward as it sounds. Anyway, its on and the car starts easier. Why is the dizzy clamp and 9/16 nut so difficult to fit? Maybe my fat fingers?

Onto to the carbs. Well the LHS carb (1357) was well out. So after adjusting, it ran smoother. The idle wobble has got less now. The throttle response better and now it idles at around 700rpm nicely. I think the little wobble isn't helped by the fact the engine mounts are knackered.

A little run of 30 miles told me one thing. These cars are underrated.

So i am off to collect parts next week for my 5 speed conversion. Car is safely in the dry now and i am not drowning my sorrows for once.
 
hello all,

I have managed to now collect almost everything for the 5 speed gearbox swap. I have the following
LT77 box
SD1 slave cylinder, 3 piece clutch, associated other clutch parts.
V8 bellhousing, V8 auto prop
I have got an SD1 rear mount that looks like it could be 'persuaded' to fit.
Rubber mounts (of some sort) which includes engine mounts
gaskets, seals and gearstick bushes and probably another load of stuff i don't need.

this week included a 600 mile round trip to get it all. I'm having a couple of beers to celebrate.

I now need to sort out fitting it all. I do have an interested party so as i progress, i'll keep you updated.
 
Hello all, been busy with my limited free time lately. I had covid whilst out in spain and have just recovered. ist time for me!

Anyway, been in the workshop with the LT77 cleaning and checking it. I have fitted a new front oil seal as it was weeping slightly. This is far as i have got. I have the V8 bellhousing and a rear cross member.

I have refurbished the gear selector and given it a paint.

LT77 Bare.jpgLT77 Front seal.jpgLT77 remote.jpg
 
now when you have a few tipples and you are sitting at the computer whilst browsing the web, it can be a dangerous pastime. I now have 2 x LT77 boxes. I picked this one up. This is number 2. It is 100% complete. Number 1 wasn't and trying to find the rear dust shield wasn't a success. This is the only bit that is missing from number 1.

Plan is to look at both boxes and whatever i am left over with, offer it to someone who is looking for one. Both boxes are good and 5 speed TR7 1981 units. I have 2 rear cross members. Both TR7 bell housings are going to scrap unless someone is looking for 2!

LT77 no2.jpgLT77 no2 selecter.jpg
 
Update on progress. i've now got the gearbox i want painted and have assembled the gear selector rear part. I have gone with the poly bushes which were easy enough to fit. It selects all the gears nicely although reverse gear can be selected too easily. it could be i haven't set the spring correctly. Can anyone offer advice on this? I have heard that you just need to 'clout it' over to the left but it selects nicely and there doesn't seem to be any 'lifting' of such to get it into reverse............

I am also going to use this comma oil in the box unless someone says don't. What came out was rather thick and brown/really dark red. I've read that a good 75/90 can be used. Is this ok?
LT77 finished.jpgGearbox oil 7590.jpg
 
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