Rover NADA 3500S Auto
- Thread starter keynsham1
- Start date
Tor
Well-Known Member
I've got stacks of little parts and planned works to do on mine, one of which is to redo one weepy rear caliper and set the rears up as per Harvey's instructions (found in the Brakes section). New braided hoses might also be coming, which ought to firm it all up a touch more.
keynsham1
Active Member
My Rover passed it's MOT first time after almost three years in the garage. I am feeling just a little smug!
I had three advisory comments. These were slight play in the steering idler box, slight play in one rear wheel bearing, and slight play in the offside inboard UJ on the driveshaft. I will address the last two when I sort my rear wheel clearance out (See "Steering/Suspension" thread under Magstar wheel clearance).
I have to say a big thankyou to all the help and advice I have received using this forum. It has been a life saver at times and stopped me going completely mad!
I had three advisory comments. These were slight play in the steering idler box, slight play in one rear wheel bearing, and slight play in the offside inboard UJ on the driveshaft. I will address the last two when I sort my rear wheel clearance out (See "Steering/Suspension" thread under Magstar wheel clearance).
I have to say a big thankyou to all the help and advice I have received using this forum. It has been a life saver at times and stopped me going completely mad!
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josephp6man
New Member
hi keynsham1,
very well done indeed. hopefully ther might be three NADA'S at beamish, your stunning looking red one, my ready for a respray and interior white one and hopefully a friend of mine who has an arden green one. i am just ahead of you with the test as mine passed last month. should hopefully be getting the age related plate next week. you will have to let me know what yours is when you get it.
ian
very well done indeed. hopefully ther might be three NADA'S at beamish, your stunning looking red one, my ready for a respray and interior white one and hopefully a friend of mine who has an arden green one. i am just ahead of you with the test as mine passed last month. should hopefully be getting the age related plate next week. you will have to let me know what yours is when you get it.
ian
bri p6b v8
New Member
that will be the most nadas i have ever seen in one place,bring beamish on!!! theres plenty of cars getting booked in now 
That's terrific! I think your success has just confirmed my intention to go to Beamish! I bet you created some interest at the MoT station!
Play in the steering idler definitely signals a need for a refurbished one. They don't get to that stage until they've lost all their oil a while back. Better get Ian to organise getting a LHD one refurbed ready!
The UJ is most unlikely to be alone. Best do all 6 (ie including the prop). One of my least favourite jobs, sorry.
Chris
Play in the steering idler definitely signals a need for a refurbished one. They don't get to that stage until they've lost all their oil a while back. Better get Ian to organise getting a LHD one refurbed ready!
The UJ is most unlikely to be alone. Best do all 6 (ie including the prop). One of my least favourite jobs, sorry.
Chris
Pilkie
Active Member
Hi Keynsham.
WOW!!!
8) 8)
I saw your P6 this weekend at St Roses classic car show.
It can only be described as an absoleute stunner of a Nada!
I popped over a couple of times to try to meet you for a natter,but you were not about!
I was in my TR6 on the GLAvon display,row A.
Looking forward to seeing and meeting you at some of our local classic car shows!!
Hopefully my P6V8 will be back on the road by the end of the month after its refurb,only leaving the roof/webasto to recover.
WOW!!!
8) 8)
I saw your P6 this weekend at St Roses classic car show.
It can only be described as an absoleute stunner of a Nada!
I popped over a couple of times to try to meet you for a natter,but you were not about!
I was in my TR6 on the GLAvon display,row A.
Looking forward to seeing and meeting you at some of our local classic car shows!!
Hopefully my P6V8 will be back on the road by the end of the month after its refurb,only leaving the roof/webasto to recover.
keynsham1
Active Member
So nearly ends my first year of Rovering and Rallying in my P6 NADA. My furthest trip was to Beamish which was 300 miles each way. I drove almost faultlessly except for an annoying intermittent misfire which turned out to be a dodgy condenser. A few local rallies and a wet day at Nuffield place and now it is time to consider putting all things wrong, right again!
My teething problems have been as follows:
1. Leaking PAS pump. It still leaks. I have tried undoing and refitting the pipes and attempting to seal the banjo connector (without having the right square section seal) with no luck. I think it will have to come out.
2. Leaking steering idler. Replaced with a recon unit from Ian Wilson.
3. Leaking PAS box. Stripped and rebuilt with new seals. This led to strange play in the steering which turned out to be the rack adjuster adjustment. Whilst working this out, I managed to damage the lower seal and now the box operated perfectly but leaks again........so it is going to have to come out again.
4. Noisy tappet. I replaced all the tappets, pushrods ands rocker shafts complete when I rebuilt the engine. I soaked the tappets in oil for a few days before I installed them. One was always a little noisy, but I hoped it would gradually fill and the noise would go. It seems however to have got noticeably worse. Has anyone got any magic tricks which will let me avoid having to replace it? Stripping the top of a NADA V8 is not a five minute job! Has anyone else had a similar problem with brand new tappets? Is it easy to identify exactly which one is causing the problem?
5. Magstar alloy wheels that insist on rubbing the rear wheel arches. I am still not brave enough for the ‘scissor jack’ treatment!
6. Intermittent windscreen wiper operation. Strip and rebuild of the motor unit seems to have cured that. I think it was the old grease making the delay and return mechanism sticking.
7. Odd brake pedal operation. This was eventually traced to the use of silicon brake fluid making the seals in the master cylinder and servo swell up. The effect of this is having to apply a large pressure to overcome the stiction, and them overbraking once the seals slide. The master cylinder has had new seals and the problem has almost gone. Servo seal replacement should cure the problem completely. (I really didn’t want this to be a silicon brake fluid problem as I have always supported it’s use in the past. Not any more though!).
That lot of jobs should keep me busy until next spring. I have also just bought an 8 track cartridge player that I am going to fit into a box to make it portable and see if I can use it in the car using the cigarette lighter and the input on the rear of my Blaupunkt radio. It’s just another toy really, but it’s fun to play!
My teething problems have been as follows:
1. Leaking PAS pump. It still leaks. I have tried undoing and refitting the pipes and attempting to seal the banjo connector (without having the right square section seal) with no luck. I think it will have to come out.
2. Leaking steering idler. Replaced with a recon unit from Ian Wilson.
3. Leaking PAS box. Stripped and rebuilt with new seals. This led to strange play in the steering which turned out to be the rack adjuster adjustment. Whilst working this out, I managed to damage the lower seal and now the box operated perfectly but leaks again........so it is going to have to come out again.
4. Noisy tappet. I replaced all the tappets, pushrods ands rocker shafts complete when I rebuilt the engine. I soaked the tappets in oil for a few days before I installed them. One was always a little noisy, but I hoped it would gradually fill and the noise would go. It seems however to have got noticeably worse. Has anyone got any magic tricks which will let me avoid having to replace it? Stripping the top of a NADA V8 is not a five minute job! Has anyone else had a similar problem with brand new tappets? Is it easy to identify exactly which one is causing the problem?
5. Magstar alloy wheels that insist on rubbing the rear wheel arches. I am still not brave enough for the ‘scissor jack’ treatment!
6. Intermittent windscreen wiper operation. Strip and rebuild of the motor unit seems to have cured that. I think it was the old grease making the delay and return mechanism sticking.
7. Odd brake pedal operation. This was eventually traced to the use of silicon brake fluid making the seals in the master cylinder and servo swell up. The effect of this is having to apply a large pressure to overcome the stiction, and them overbraking once the seals slide. The master cylinder has had new seals and the problem has almost gone. Servo seal replacement should cure the problem completely. (I really didn’t want this to be a silicon brake fluid problem as I have always supported it’s use in the past. Not any more though!).
That lot of jobs should keep me busy until next spring. I have also just bought an 8 track cartridge player that I am going to fit into a box to make it portable and see if I can use it in the car using the cigarette lighter and the input on the rear of my Blaupunkt radio. It’s just another toy really, but it’s fun to play!
keynsham1 wrote,...
Did you fit a new camshaft at the same time and then follow the correct running in procedure? Fitting new lifters with a used camshaft is a recipe for ruining a camshaft and having to do it all again. There are also pattern parts for the Rover V8 covering all that you mention, some of which are appalling quality. Either of these will likely explain the worsening noise.
Ron.
Did you fit a new camshaft at the same time and then follow the correct running in procedure? Fitting new lifters with a used camshaft is a recipe for ruining a camshaft and having to do it all again. There are also pattern parts for the Rover V8 covering all that you mention, some of which are appalling quality. Either of these will likely explain the worsening noise.
Ron.
keynsham1
Active Member
I did fit a new camshaft with the tappets. I have just bunged a bottle of Wynns hydraulic lifter treatment in to see if that helps, but I am not really very hopeful.
I am not sure about this cam and tappet wearing theory. I used to have a V8 rover in the late eighties and I changed all the tappets because some were noisy. I didn't change the camshaft and it was fine for miles and miles. I suppose it is a bit like the arguments for unleaded petrol and valve seats, or the latest one to hit the ground being the ZDDP in engine oil. No-one really knows what will happen. I see great interest in the E10 petrol as well these days. My Rover lived in California for its whole life and they have been using high ethanol unleaded fuel for years. It had little or no effect on my engine!
I am not sure about this cam and tappet wearing theory. I used to have a V8 rover in the late eighties and I changed all the tappets because some were noisy. I didn't change the camshaft and it was fine for miles and miles. I suppose it is a bit like the arguments for unleaded petrol and valve seats, or the latest one to hit the ground being the ZDDP in engine oil. No-one really knows what will happen. I see great interest in the E10 petrol as well these days. My Rover lived in California for its whole life and they have been using high ethanol unleaded fuel for years. It had little or no effect on my engine!
keynsham1 wrote,...
That is very interesting. Fuel companies locally advise most strongly not to use such fuel in cars fitted with carburettors owing to fuel system damage along with subsequent running problems. The E10 fuels not atomising in the same way as straight fuel, not to mention a reduction in both power and fuel economy.
Did you fit genuine parts in that case or were they pattern items?
Ron.
That is very interesting. Fuel companies locally advise most strongly not to use such fuel in cars fitted with carburettors owing to fuel system damage along with subsequent running problems. The E10 fuels not atomising in the same way as straight fuel, not to mention a reduction in both power and fuel economy.
Did you fit genuine parts in that case or were they pattern items?
Ron.
That could be it then. Genuine items are available but they do cost considerably more than pattern parts. Not all of the latter are to be avoided, some are quite ok, you just have to be careful with what you buy and from whom. On the Land Rover forum a fellow had a similar problem,..after only 6000 miles lots of noise and wear, replaced both with genuine, problem solved.
Ron.
Ron.
I'm afraid i agree with Ron on the subject of cams and lifters wearing together. The Rover V9 is astonishingly tolerent of a worn cam and frequently doesn't show obvious distress until the cam lobe is completely gone! But I don't think this is your problem. Rather the lifter is failing to pressurise and therefore allowing slop in the valve train, hence the tap. There is one obvious question first though, did you set the preloads to go with the new valve train components? That is just possibly a cause of the problem and can be corrected without having to go into the engine valley. Otherwise, if you can identify the defective lifter, it is possible to change the guts between your current lifter and a new one. That way you don't have to put a new llifter against an old cam.
Chris
Chris
keynsham1
Active Member
Chris, I assume after a bit of surfing, and possibly answering my own question, you are referring to this:
This seems to be for if you have changed parts for different specs. There is no reference in any Rover documentation I have regarding this type of adjustment. Would you expect to have to change the rocker pedestal height for a replacement cam, followers, and rocker shafts of standard Rover spec? The RPI kit is for bolt on roller rocker arm kits.
This seems to be for if you have changed parts for different specs. There is no reference in any Rover documentation I have regarding this type of adjustment. Would you expect to have to change the rocker pedestal height for a replacement cam, followers, and rocker shafts of standard Rover spec? The RPI kit is for bolt on roller rocker arm kits.
keynsham1
Active Member
Today I took the top off of my engine and removed the tappet nearest the back on the offside of the car. This is where my tapping seemed to be coming from. The rocker shaft, rockers and pushrods all look as new. The tappet looked OK except for some damage to the edge shown below:
The second picture shows the witness where the tappet has been turned by the cam under normal operation. I don't believe that this damage could cause the tapping that I experienced but it is concerning for a part that is 1500 miles old. I assume the noise could only have been premature wear of the tappet centre piston causing rapid oil draining, and in turn leading to a gap in the valve drivetrain where there shouldn't be one. I cannot measure this to prove it though and all other surfaces look good.
I have decided to replace all my tappets with the best I can find as I don't really want to be going in here again for a long time. I know that you can get them from Land Rover, and also that Piper make them. Does anyone have any advice on where to buy?
The second picture shows the witness where the tappet has been turned by the cam under normal operation. I don't believe that this damage could cause the tapping that I experienced but it is concerning for a part that is 1500 miles old. I assume the noise could only have been premature wear of the tappet centre piston causing rapid oil draining, and in turn leading to a gap in the valve drivetrain where there shouldn't be one. I cannot measure this to prove it though and all other surfaces look good.
I have decided to replace all my tappets with the best I can find as I don't really want to be going in here again for a long time. I know that you can get them from Land Rover, and also that Piper make them. Does anyone have any advice on where to buy?
