My mean green hornet
- Thread starter corazon
- Start date
corazon
Well-Known Member
I've just had one of those horrible discovery moments.
The spare wheel had been moving a little and took it off to tighten the mount nut.
Whilst tightening, I noticed some corrosion around where the top link bolts into the boot.
A little poking and I don't think I'll be driving to my new job in the Rover this week :|
Not sure how many more miles that would have lasted :shock:
I just had to check the other side.
Better and not as close to the nut but still some corrosion where it's been repaired poorly in the past, which after poking meant I could again see some daylight
Jim
The spare wheel had been moving a little and took it off to tighten the mount nut.
Whilst tightening, I noticed some corrosion around where the top link bolts into the boot.
A little poking and I don't think I'll be driving to my new job in the Rover this week :|
Not sure how many more miles that would have lasted :shock:
I just had to check the other side.
Better and not as close to the nut but still some corrosion where it's been repaired poorly in the past, which after poking meant I could again see some daylight
Jim
corazon
Well-Known Member
I'll hasten to say this has been contributing to strange handling of late, and perhaps toward the steering pull to the right?
This will certainly now be the priority job, then full examination of the front suspension will follow.
Funds permitting, I may replace the rear shocks at the same time and refresh/repaint DeDion and links.
Sadly my one welding lesson a few years ago won't stretch to tackling this, plus I still don't own a welder.
So I need to find someone who can take this on for me, I have a few ideas but for obvious reasons would prefer a P6er
Thanks for the moral support, I'm just glad it didn't fail whilst driving :shock:
Jim
This will certainly now be the priority job, then full examination of the front suspension will follow.
Funds permitting, I may replace the rear shocks at the same time and refresh/repaint DeDion and links.
Sadly my one welding lesson a few years ago won't stretch to tackling this, plus I still don't own a welder.
So I need to find someone who can take this on for me, I have a few ideas but for obvious reasons would prefer a P6er
Thanks for the moral support, I'm just glad it didn't fail whilst driving :shock:
Jim
It's really worth having a go yourself - For the £200 for a welder and mask will set you back you'll reap it back many times over... That does appear to be a good first place to try welding on the car!
Before i started on pae about a year and a half ago i'd spent about 10 minutes on a welder... On several occasions it's saved me money too. Last weekend i fixed the exhaust on the 820, and i even fixed up the old barbecue grill (as the rest of it was stainless steel) rather than buying a new one.
Up to you obviously, but having hesitated before and paid other people for substandard jobs I wish i'd took the plunge and had a go a lot sooner.
Rich
corazon
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that Rich,
I do really want that skill under my belt, I might take a quick look at some of the cheaper clarke migs :wink:
I also have the luxury of the mx5 to get to work fortunately, so now probably is as good a time as any
As she's off the road, I guess I might as well rebuild the carbs too
Jim
I do really want that skill under my belt, I might take a quick look at some of the cheaper clarke migs :wink:
I also have the luxury of the mx5 to get to work fortunately, so now probably is as good a time as any
As she's off the road, I guess I might as well rebuild the carbs too
Jim
From my own experience i'd say the clarkes are much better than the SIP welders. I'm using a second hand Clarke 100E with an uprated cable. Gas only but i tried a gasless one first and to say i didnt get on with it is an understatement. I think the ability to adjust things is the real advantage you get of the 100/105 over the 90...
Gas welders are easier than gasless, and for the autodimming helmets ebay seems cheaper than any shop i found!
Hope that's some help,
Rich
Gas welders are easier than gasless, and for the autodimming helmets ebay seems cheaper than any shop i found!
Hope that's some help,
Rich
JVY
Active Member
I get on fine with my Clarke 90EN (the gasless version of the Pro 90). When my car failed it's MOT last year, I took the plunge and tried welding for the first time. I found the old SIP MIG I had was rubbish (lousy wire feed which seems to be a common complaint on SIPs). However the Clarke works a treat and I have nearly finished the various chassis repairs. If I have one small complaint about the 90EN it is that the current settings are controlled by switches – as Rich says the ability to fine tune current using a knob is better.
Whatever MIG you might go for, I would advise:
1. Make sure it has low current settings (e.g. goes down to about 30 Amps) – very important for thin/old car bodywork if you don’t want to blow holes everywhere.
2. Make sure it does NOT have a live torch (I don’t think any of the Clarke ones do). These are dangerous as they will arc when they come into contact with the car body (even if you haven’t pulled the trigger!).
When I first had a go, I tried using gas and gasless. I reckon the gas gives a cleaner weld. The gasless wire is a bit messy and you have to keep cleaning up the weld area due to the residue left from the flux. The advantage is that having no gas is one less thing to worry about as a beginner. Also, if you use gas, either be prepared to buy lots of little bottles of CO2 or CO2/Argon - cause they don't last long. The alternative is to buy/rent a bigger bottle.
Stuff you probably need:
1. MIG welder - obviously . If you go for gas, some bottles of CO2 or CO2/Argon.
2. Reel of 0.6mm or 0.8mm wire for steel (gasless or "flux cored" wire if you gasless).
3. FIRE EXTINGUISHER – keep it handy at all times.
4. Welder’s helmet – as Rich says the auto-dim ones are best. Always wear it – “arc eye” is not fun!
5. Gauntlets and old clothes that cover all exposed skin.
6. Sheet of 18 gauge steel.
7. Weld Thru zinc primer – use it to spray bits of metal before you weld them on.
8. Welder’s clamp and magnet - or something else suitable for holding repair section in place before you spot weld it in.
9. Something to cut sheet metal with – tin snips or angle grinder with thin (e.g. 1mm) cutting discs. Also need the cutting discs to cut away all the rotten metal.
10, Angle grinder with 40 or 60 grit flap discs – much better for grinding off weld than a grinding disc.
11. Some cardboard and felt tip pens (e.g. cereal packets) – for making templates.
12. Some files for fettling repair sections to size.
13. Wire brush wheel for angle grinder to clean of old paint & rust – you need nice clean metal for good electrical connection. Also, always disconnect car battery before MIG welding,
I haven’t had to repair those suspension mounts on my car but it looks like a reasonably easy first welding job. I think it’s a common repair for P6s, so hopefully some other forum members can give you some tips???
Why not give it a go? As already said, after a few jobs, it will have paid for itself.
Whatever MIG you might go for, I would advise:
1. Make sure it has low current settings (e.g. goes down to about 30 Amps) – very important for thin/old car bodywork if you don’t want to blow holes everywhere.
2. Make sure it does NOT have a live torch (I don’t think any of the Clarke ones do). These are dangerous as they will arc when they come into contact with the car body (even if you haven’t pulled the trigger!).
When I first had a go, I tried using gas and gasless. I reckon the gas gives a cleaner weld. The gasless wire is a bit messy and you have to keep cleaning up the weld area due to the residue left from the flux. The advantage is that having no gas is one less thing to worry about as a beginner. Also, if you use gas, either be prepared to buy lots of little bottles of CO2 or CO2/Argon - cause they don't last long. The alternative is to buy/rent a bigger bottle.
Stuff you probably need:
1. MIG welder - obviously
. If you go for gas, some bottles of CO2 or CO2/Argon.2. Reel of 0.6mm or 0.8mm wire for steel (gasless or "flux cored" wire if you gasless).
3. FIRE EXTINGUISHER – keep it handy at all times.
4. Welder’s helmet – as Rich says the auto-dim ones are best. Always wear it – “arc eye” is not fun!
5. Gauntlets and old clothes that cover all exposed skin.
6. Sheet of 18 gauge steel.
7. Weld Thru zinc primer – use it to spray bits of metal before you weld them on.
8. Welder’s clamp and magnet - or something else suitable for holding repair section in place before you spot weld it in.
9. Something to cut sheet metal with – tin snips or angle grinder with thin (e.g. 1mm) cutting discs. Also need the cutting discs to cut away all the rotten metal.
10, Angle grinder with 40 or 60 grit flap discs – much better for grinding off weld than a grinding disc.
11. Some cardboard and felt tip pens (e.g. cereal packets) – for making templates.
12. Some files for fettling repair sections to size.
13. Wire brush wheel for angle grinder to clean of old paint & rust – you need nice clean metal for good electrical connection. Also, always disconnect car battery before MIG welding,
I haven’t had to repair those suspension mounts on my car but it looks like a reasonably easy first welding job. I think it’s a common repair for P6s, so hopefully some other forum members can give you some tips???
Why not give it a go? As already said, after a few jobs, it will have paid for itself.
corazon
Well-Known Member
After much indecision, I had Duncan (from Duncan and Nick Dunning fame ) do the welding.
I had actually found quite a bit more rot than previously photographed-
Namely the left hand wheel arch "shelf" inside the boot was rotting out around the welded seam, and the inner base unit wheel arch in the same offending area was easily poked through too...
Very reasonable and a quick turnaround, Thanks again Duncan!
The drive back indicated a complete return to normal handling.
The steering had become very heavy not to mention the pull either way under acceleration/deceleration, now all but disappeared
The driver-side mount where 'repaired' before was actually moving prior to the welding. The plate the link was bolted to was moving in between the inner and outer metal :shock:
Glad it's all sorted and I can get back to driving and sorting other areas.
I am still planning on buying a MIG, but will teach myself slowly and work my way up to structural jobs like this one.
There's plenty of cosmetic welding to get on with first
In other news I've just been offered an huge amount of tools, hundreds of sockets and spanners in whitworth, AF, and metric.. Along with some other goodies for only £50
Jim
) do the welding.I had actually found quite a bit more rot than previously photographed-
Namely the left hand wheel arch "shelf" inside the boot was rotting out around the welded seam, and the inner base unit wheel arch in the same offending area was easily poked through too...
Very reasonable and a quick turnaround, Thanks again Duncan!
The drive back indicated a complete return to normal handling.
The steering had become very heavy not to mention the pull either way under acceleration/deceleration, now all but disappeared
The driver-side mount where 'repaired' before was actually moving prior to the welding. The plate the link was bolted to was moving in between the inner and outer metal :shock:
Glad it's all sorted and I can get back to driving and sorting other areas.
I am still planning on buying a MIG, but will teach myself slowly and work my way up to structural jobs like this one.
There's plenty of cosmetic welding to get on with first
In other news I've just been offered an huge amount of tools, hundreds of sockets and spanners in whitworth, AF, and metric.. Along with some other goodies for only £50
Jim
corazon said:In other news I've just been offered an huge amount of tools, hundreds of sockets and spanners in whitworth, AF, and metric.. Along with some other goodies for only £50
Be very careful about even considering that offer, these people have no idea of the harm they cause, it's a very slippery slope from there to the murky depths you will descend to once you become addicted. As a toolaholic, it's only a few short steps until you're hunting around the bootsales in the hope of finding another fix, then another, and another.......
a15htn
New Member
harveyp6 said:corazon said:In other news I've just been offered an huge amount of tools, hundreds of sockets and spanners in whitworth, AF, and metric.. Along with some other goodies for only £50
Be very careful about even considering that offer, these people have no idea of the harm they cause, it's a very slippery slope from there to the murky depths you will descend to once you become addicted. As a toolaholic, it's only a few short steps until you're hunting around the bootsales in the hope of finding another fix, then another, and another.......
I'll second that..... I had a tidy up of just spanners and sockets spread across 4 toolboxes last weekend.
I now have:
4 sets metric open + ring spanners...... 6mm to 24mm..... And a few spare
At least 3 sets of AF imperial open enders....
Numerous unlisted WW ones.... Probably the same number again.
As for sockets.... Metric sets x 3 AF x 5! And a daft sized collection of WW again.
That's only the boxes at the new house...... The two tool chests and two roller boxes at my parents house haven't even been thought about :roll: