got a 3500S

Thanks for clearing that up for me. What does the abbreviation d.a stand for? Thanks for your patience, sorry if they're silly questions.
 
A "DA" is a Dual action sander. Usually air powered and has a random orbit rather than a normal sander/grinder.
 
electric da is best as air fed ones cane the compresser. Sealey do a blinding da for about £150. I have had mine for 7 years, stunning machine.
 
Another good use for the isolator is over filler, often the filler absorbs some of the paint/thinners and swells, so although you started with nice flat filler, you end up with slight ripples round the filled areas. Especially when using cellulose paint.

I've had an air DA for about 10 years, no problems, guess it depends how heavily you use it. Have considered an electric one though, if only to reduce the noise !! neighbours love the sound of a compressor :D
 
webmaster said:
Have considered an electric one though, if only to reduce the noise !! neighbours love the sound of a compressor :D
Click to expand...

Ah, electric ones can be just as noisy, especially on P6 wings that resonate and amplify the sound....
 
I've got a set of vitesse 15" wheels with newish 205/60 tyres. Does anyone know if these'll go on the back ok without modification?
I've got the sd1 studs, nuts and hub covers too.

Also about to do the halogen headlamp re-wire. I was thinking of taking the coil feed for the relays from behind the glove box out of the back of the fuse box (replacing the headlamp fuses to suit relay current). I've got two relays, one for 4 x dip and one for 4 x main beams which I was going to supply via a blade fuse holder box fed from the ammeter take off. Where do you think would be the best place to mount all this gubbins? Next to the fuse box or inside the engine bay?

Hopefully my driveway will climb above zero degrees tomorrow!
 
tantus pedis said:
I've got a set of vitesse 15" wheels with newish 205/60 tyres. Does anyone know if these'll go on the back ok without modification?
I've got the sd1 studs, nuts and hub covers too.
Click to expand...

I'll let you know in about two weeks 8)

tantus pedis said:
Also about to do the halogen headlamp re-wire. I was thinking of taking the coil feed for the relays from behind the glove box out of the back of the fuse box (replacing the headlamp fuses to suit relay current). I've got two relays, one for 4 x dip and one for 4 x main beams which I was going to supply via a blade fuse holder box fed from the ammeter take off. Where do you think would be the best place to mount all this gubbins? Next to the fuse box or inside the engine bay?

Hopefully my driveway will climb above zero degrees tomorrow!
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4 x dip? You may get flashed at more than the 'Look at me!! I've got my fog lights on and it isn't even foggy' brigade!

What is the ampage of the new lights against the old ones?
 
There's some dispute as to whether 4 dipped beams is legal and satisfies MOT requirements
If you do it I suggest you wire it so you can just have 2 when you go for an MOT
 
quattro said:
4 x dip? You may get flashed at more than the 'Look at me!! I've got my fog lights on and it isn't even foggy' brigade!

What is the ampage of the new lights against the old ones?
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No idea what power sealed units are but these will be four standard H4 55/60W bulbs in 4 'outer' lenses. MOT manual says 'at least one pair' of dipped beams - so I can't see a problem with two as long as all 4 lenses have the correct cut off pattern.

Aha!....

Statutory Instrument 1989 No. 1796
The Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989

PART II


REQUIREMENTS RELATING TO OPTIONAL DIPPED-BEAM HEADLAMPS
1. In the case of a vehicle with three or more wheels having a maximum speed exceeding 25 mph first used on or after 1st April 1991, two and not more than two may be fitted and the only requirements prescribed by these Regulations in respect of any which are fitted are-


(a) those specified in paragraphs 2(c), 4, 7, 10 and 12(a) of Part I,


(b) that they are designed for a vehicle which is intended to be driven on the right-hand side of the road,


(c) that they form a matched pair, and


(d) that their electrical connections are such that not more than one pair of dipped-beam headlamps is capable of being illuminated at a time.

2. In the case of any other vehicle, any number may be fitted and the only requirements prescribed by these Regulations in respect of any which are fitted are those specified in paragraphs 2(c), 4, 7 and 12(a) of Part I.

So before 1991 and it's fine.
Probably :)
 
I know the roads are covered in salt and that I shall pay through the nose in welding at some point but I love driving this car!
Blatting it over Charnwood Forest through a snow covered landscape turns a few heads and I'm driving with a big grin.
If only the heater was a bit more effective :roll:
As I've got an manually switched electric fan would I be able to remove the driven one (and reduce the revs a bit)?
The temp needle only ever reaches the start of the green bit - don't know if this is correct ie should it be in the middle?
Most of my old cars have been overcooled.
 
tantus pedis said:
I know the roads are covered in salt and that I shall pay through the nose in welding at some point but I love driving this car!
Blatting it over Charnwood Forest through a snow covered landscape turns a few heads and I'm driving with a big grin.
If only the heater was a bit more effective :roll:
As I've got an manually switched electric fan would I be able to remove the driven one (and reduce the revs a bit)?
The temp needle only ever reaches the start of the green bit - don't know if this is correct ie should it be in the middle?
Most of my old cars have been overcooled.
Click to expand...

It should run at about 85C, i.e. dead centre.

It could be a faulty guage, but more likely to be a stuck thermostat.

I did once have a car which underheated, and decided to check the thermostat only to find there wasn't one :shock:
 
got a new thermostat and some really nice replacement rear quarter panels. Hopefully these will screw on after i've cut the ones off held on with black silicone :?
 
New thermostat and gauge is still on same place - maybe it's something to do with it being a SD1 engine but i doubt it.
4 dip beams working and looking fine.
Newish rear quarter panels fitted.
Nailed a new water pump on and reverse flushed heater matrix at te same time - heat at last!
Flogging Winguard mirror on ebay to pay for pair of long base Tex ones :wink:
Discovered my car is painted in Masai Red 378 (range rover colour). Looking to have a bit of a blow over in this later in the year.
 
What rad have you got in the car? I have to say I have a P6 V8 cooling my Twin Plenum SD1, and it can run marginally walm at times, hence a Kenlowe.

I was going to have some more cores put in the rad. You might find you have a real thick rad, which means you are cooling extremely effectively. Generally speaking P6 V8 rads and SD1 engines are not really suited as the original rad is not really up to the job. The SD1 is much wider and has a higher volume, so I am told.

Id be interested to know.
 
Erm - short answer is I don't know for sure.
However It has a electric fan than is mounted through the rad so I'm kinda assuming it's off the same Sd1 donor.
The rad started to leak from near these mounting points recently so I put some Kalimex K-seal in it. Seems to have worked it's way through eventually. The rad cap is leaking as well which doesn't help. The cap leaks from cold so I don't think it anything else.
That K-seal stuff worked wonders on the rad on my viva which burst in spectacular fashion last year.
 
Just a thought - Did the SD1 have a pump mounted fan or just electric ones?
If just electric then this could be why mine is always running cool with an SD1 rad. Maybe I could take it off and see what happens - I've got the electric wired up to a manual switch.
Heater has started misbehaving again - starting to blow cold halfway through a run with a small dip in engine temp on the gauge. Both hoses to and from box were hot though (when I got home). Thermostat again maybe. What temp thermostat for SD1 setup?
 
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