got a 3500S

tantus pedis

tantus pedis

Member
Despite being in the throes of a particularly virulant strain of manflu I braved the byways of London to pick up my new motor.
It was on ebay for about a day but i rang the seller and made a cash offer.
It's a 72 3500S fitted with a SD1 engine and 5 speed and it made the 4 hour return journey really comfortable and effortless. The body work is quite good - bit faded but no rust on the panels other than the door corners and rear upper C-post panel things (vinyl covered bits behind the rear door).
Had a poke around underneath and there's nothing obvious. The inner sills have been done and the outers feel really good.
Not too enamoured with the red and will be getting it re-sprayed in the not too distant future. Any suggestions?
After selling my other two I have about a thousand left to spend on it. The spray shop I used for the Viva charged me £300 for a complete job including paint - Lasted well too with only a couple of chips after 3 years of abuse in all weathers. He'll probably want about £500 this time round.
One of the sealed units went pop on the way back so need to sort those out too.
 

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Very nice

The best colour in my opinion, is Monza red.

Ermmm but it' already Monza red or very close to it. 8)
 
Hmmm, I was thinking black. Never had a car done black as people have always said you'll have a nightmare keeping it clean. Easy to touch up though I reckon! I thnk this one used to be almond or similar - from what I've seen in the boot anyway.
 
I'd stick with the red too, one of the nicest colours IMHO, and although the P6 is one of the easier cars to colour change, (no under bonnet or boot areas to do, and all panels come off) I don't particularly like changing colours.
 
I reckon Black looks a bit too strong on the P6; why not try Arden Green? Very dark but looks really classy. Especially good if you use a contrasting colour vinyl roof and 1/4 panels. "Huntsmen", a dark reddish brown looks good.

Chris
 
chrisyork said:
I reckon Black looks a bit too strong on the P6; why not try Arden Green? Very dark but looks really classy. Especially good if you use a contrasting colour vinyl roof and 1/4 panels. "Huntsmen", a dark reddish brown looks good.

Chris
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I'll have a look at those too.

What will I find when I remove the 1/4 panels? They feel a bit loose and appear to be held on with sealant!
 
tantus pedis said:
chrisyork said:
I reckon Black looks a bit too strong on the P6; why not try Arden Green? Very dark but looks really classy. Especially good if you use a contrasting colour vinyl roof and 1/4 panels. "Huntsmen", a dark reddish brown looks good.

Chris
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I'll have a look at those too.

What will I find when I remove the 1/4 panels? They feel a bit loose and appear to be held on with sealant!
Click to expand...

There are three fixings at the front edge, and some (I can't remember how many) inside, behind the inner panels. IIRC you have to remove the rear seat backs, then the rear panels, then you can get to the inner fixings. Not as difficult as it sounds.

You might find some tin worm under there.
 
BLACK IS BEAUTIFUL! EXPENSIVE TOO!

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Yes I know he needs a wash & a polish :roll: but that's what they look like in black rather classy in my opinion :wink: especially with all the chrome & that tan vinyl to break it up a bit

Regards Colin
 
Paint it whatever colour YOU like. But bear in mind the lighter the colour, the more forgiving, notably if your panels are not arrow straight. Look down a dark car that has not been squard up well and it can lok like an old womans ar*e.
 
I was thinking that if the panel gaps were a bit wide here and there, then they might be less obvious on a darker colour
 
Again it depends on how far you want to go. If panel gaps are wide, thre reset them. If you want a dark colour, go for it. It depends on your budget? A professional paint shop could 2pak it and it should be superb .... that will cost £2K plus. The best way to do it is have the panels off, gob them up and get them perfect, bar coat, primer fill and paint off. Also you have to ensure they are all rot free and whilst your at it, shutz them underneath.

I have every panel for thre P6 in my garage. Many are new or excellent 2nd hand. Each panel has been festidiuosly gobbed, primed and guide coated to ensure they are square. I have painted each in red oxide rust primer, then bar coated and then primer filled. They are all flatted and ready for top coat, having undersealed each panel at the beginning of the process.

It depends on how far you want to go. What about doors?? I have sourced rt free ones and repaired one that was marginally tender. Soaked them all at the bottom in Jenolite, red oxided inside then loaded them up to the rafters inside with schutz and unblocked drain holes.

If your panels are good and straight then its your call.
 
Tantus Pedis, stick with red, by all means refresh the paintwork though. Easier to sell on a red P6 than an 'Almond' or 'Mexico' one, if you tire of it.
Not to hijack this thread, but TwinPlenum, please explain some of the jargon you've used; what does 'gobbing' mean and what is bar coat?
 
Anyone see Wheeler Dealers (?) last night where they got a respray on a Bentley Mulsanne for £2K ? No one ever puts a price on Ed China's labour

Interesting bit about recolouring the leather with some water based solution - no mention of any lacquer etc afterwards ,Did look nice though
 
Hmmm. The respray on my P6 was £7.5k and that looks much better than new, and that's with vinyl roof and 1/4's. I'm firmly of the opinion you get what you pay for when it comes to spraying and £2k for a huge lump like a Mulsanne sounds way too cheap. Look OK on day 1 but how long will it last?

One of my cars also had recoloured seats and I was not impressed. Looked good from a distance, an unpleasant experience to sit in. As a result I am having my seats recovered in new leather. Around £1,750. Worth every penny.

Chris
 
Bar coat is an isolater, that stops paint reactng. Often by painting over gob (filler) and old paint you can get a reaction. Bar coat over the top is like a paint mask. I have heard of guys buying it by the case and painting cars in it entirely before priming, to take the headache of reactins out of the question. Old paint with new stuff on top is a pain in the arse. Some cars go well, others react. A mini I painted recently reacted in the boot after hours of prepping. I then had to prep it again after it reacted and load with bar coat. Its all the luck of the draw unless you d.a. the car right back.
 
I think Bar coat is paint to stop nasty reactions between base and top layers if they are of unknown types of paint. No idea about gobbing though!
 
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