Getting back on the road

sdibbers

Well-Known Member
There’s always something to fettle on Beryl. My wife maintains that I look forward to the next suspect noise and can’t wait to order parts and have the car apart. She may think that, but I couldn’t possibly comment, to paraphrase the BBC House of cards.

We did a 230 mile round trip with some classic friends last weekend. While driving I could hear a deep whine on long left hand bends on the right hand side. So, as mentioned above, Monday comes and I ordered a new front wheel bearing kit from Mark Gray. The kit is handy as it has both bearing sets plus the grease seal and a new split pin.

I got home this morning from Cars and Coffee. The hub was pretty hot, 90°f vs 60°f on the left hub, another pointer to a bad bearing. I pulled the wheel, brake caliper and hub.
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The large inner bearing race has two notches behind it cast into the hub. I was able to drift it out with a screwdriver and lump hammer. The outer small race was another matter. There’s very little to get a purchase on to drift it out. Even with a spacer to use with a press. So after a 20 minute session trying lots of options I got the Dremel die grinder out with a small slitting disc. With that I carefully put two slots roughly opposite each other in the race. Then using the screwdriver and lump hammer I was able to shatter the race at two points and get it out. Result!
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I used the press to get the small race in but the large one is more recessed and I didn’t have a drift big enough. So I took the old large race and ground off some metal off the outside with the angle grinder. Once I had that it was a doddle. A quick job with a hammer and drift put the seal in and all was good.

Putting it back together with plenty of grease and a new pin I went for a test drive. She sounded okay but there was some noise at sub 10mph speeds. I whipped off the wheel and backed of the nut a little. I hadn’t giving the bearings enough runout. Now it’s at 0.004” and she’s quieter than I’ve know the car. It’s amazing how you don’t realize how noisy something is until it’s gone.
 

sdibbers

Well-Known Member
Next time, if you have access to a welder, run a bead around the inside of the race, and when it cools, it will shrink ever so slightly and allow you to remove it easily.
Good to know. Although the problem wasn’t it was stuck, it was more that there was no way to get a purchase on it to remove it. This method wasn’t too bad to be honest.
 
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Demetris

Well-Known Member
Next time, if you have access to a welder, run a bead around the inside of the race, and when it cools, it will shrink ever so slightly and allow you to remove it easily.
Either that, or a bar welded across the race will be point to drift one out when there is no suitable recess.

I was surprised to find out how much the rolling noise was reduced with new wheel bearings all round, as well as new driveshaft and halfshaft universal joints. Even when none of the replaced parts gave any warning noise like was the case with Beryl.
 

sdibbers

Well-Known Member
Either that, or a bar welded across the race will be point to drift one out when there is no suitable recess.

I was surprised to find out how much the rolling noise was reduced with new wheel bearings all round, as well as new driveshaft and halfshaft universal joints. Even when none of the replaced parts gave any warning noise like was the case with Beryl.
I think UJs would be a good thing for me to update. There’s a take up clonk in the forward propshaft UJ that I know should be seen to.
 

sdibbers

Well-Known Member
Beryl is feeling pretty good these days. One thing that was bugging me was the throttle response was still a bit sharp. I’ve had this for a while, but since I’ve finally got the engine running sweetly and at full power (see the last half of last year’s reports above) I’ve noticed that it’s really hard to drive her smoothly and accelerating out of corners were a little too sudden causing weight transfer that was out of this world.

Those of you that have been following know I made up a ‘seesaw’ adaptor for the throttle control when I switched to HIF6 carbs. I’d made a few at the first time hoping to get it right. But I’d not got it right. I finally made a new one with a longer arm for the ball joint going to the pedal linkage. It’s only 5.0m longer (37.5mm up to 42.5mm) but, wow, what a difference. Pulling away is much smoother, cornering is a hoot now I can accurately modulate the accelerator, and she just feel more civilized. The plus is of course if I feel like hooligan I can still use all the power, but I now have a choice on how to drive. Happy days!

I’ll update the technical drawing I put together on the sticky about the HIF6 upgrade in the 4 cylinder discussion soon.
 

sdibbers

Well-Known Member
Little time for an update on Beryl. I noticed the bonnet didn’t look right the other day. The right edge wasn’t following the line of the wing perfectly. Sure enough there was a crack on the lip through the hole where one of the little bumpers should be.

I knew that the car had had a fender bender back in the 70’s on that side. Looking at the lip you could see the aluminium had been beaten and ground flat. It was wafer thin and hard there. I didn’t fancy trying to TIG weld it as I was sure I’d damage the bonnet further. Not to mention the metal was already thin and work hardened.

After a little research it dawned on me that modern cars use glued aluminium in their construction. I found out that LocTite made a hybrid epoxy cynoacryolate adhesive that was just the ticket. So, I ordered the dispenser, mixing tube and glue. Traced out the shape of the lip onto cardboard and transferred it to some 1.5mm aluminium plate.
After cleaning and keying the bonnet and plate I attached the plate with the reassuringly expensive adhesive and left it propped and clamped for a couple of days.

It needs a bit of cleaning but the bonnet is straight and stuff again, there’s a slight blemish on the visible surface on the bonnet, but I think if you didn’t know to look you wouldn’t see it.

after doing that I noticed the bonnet was biased to the left, so I adjusted the left hinge plate and moved it forward a little. I also adjusted the feet on the leading edge and the striker pin height. For the first time in my ownership Beryl’s front end looks symmetrical and balanced, I guess I was used to how she looked before, but now she looks loads better.
 

Attachments

sdibbers

Well-Known Member
We use this stuff for sticking captive nuts on our cowlings. It sets FAST, I tried to get some into a syringe to get into a tight spot and it went solid before I even got close to the work area...
That’s a similar stuff to the LocTite adhesive. Also, that dispenser is meant to be used with a mixing tube and gun as I have pictured, hence the super fast kick off and cure.
 
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