Engine upgrade
- Thread starter stina
- Start date
stina
New Member
chrisyork said:
Hi Chris , No still not got round to that yet , Waiting for some nice consistent warm weather to set it up . ( in the last 15 mins we've gone from sunshine ,to a river running down the road , to drizzle and back to sunshine :shock: )
I'm not too bothered it's all there ready to go
Andries
Member
Hi Stina, all,
I saw your post about stainless bolts for the exhaust manifolds. Since I'm struggling myself with the bolts for the thermostat housing I'm starting to get quite scared with using stainless bolts into aluminium 'flesh' and thread. Due to the heat changes and therefore the expansion ratios for different materials, over time it will be either incredibly stuck or the thread will settle to the bolt. At least, that's what I'm scared of and what happened to my thermostat housing bolts.
As this topic is about upgrading you engine in every way and not only perfomance wise I did some research on the internet and found out that many racing cars use helicoils in aluminium heads for spark plugs as they don't have the time to wait until the engine is cooled down and change the plug. If they fit a stainless helicoil and in there a stainless bolt (or spark plug), the expansion due to heat is only between helicoil and aluminium surrounding it. I don't know whether this is a good theory, I'll leave this to the experts on here. I'm forced to helicoil the thermostat housing to inlet manifold (or change my inlet manifold) so we'll see if it is an improvement. Should be easier to maintain and fault free.
Andries
I saw your post about stainless bolts for the exhaust manifolds. Since I'm struggling myself with the bolts for the thermostat housing I'm starting to get quite scared with using stainless bolts into aluminium 'flesh' and thread. Due to the heat changes and therefore the expansion ratios for different materials, over time it will be either incredibly stuck or the thread will settle to the bolt. At least, that's what I'm scared of and what happened to my thermostat housing bolts.
As this topic is about upgrading you engine in every way and not only perfomance wise I did some research on the internet and found out that many racing cars use helicoils in aluminium heads for spark plugs as they don't have the time to wait until the engine is cooled down and change the plug. If they fit a stainless helicoil and in there a stainless bolt (or spark plug), the expansion due to heat is only between helicoil and aluminium surrounding it. I don't know whether this is a good theory, I'll leave this to the experts on here. I'm forced to helicoil the thermostat housing to inlet manifold (or change my inlet manifold) so we'll see if it is an improvement. Should be easier to maintain and fault free.
Andries
stina said:chrisyork said:
Hi Chris , No still not got round to that yet , Waiting for some nice consistent warm weather to set it up . ( in the last 15 mins we've gone from sunshine ,to a river running down the road , to drizzle and back to sunshine :shock: )
I'm not too bothered it's all there ready to go
I abandoned the engine driven fan (temporarily) around 2 years ago. I took the car out for a drive one Saturday morning in warmish weather (75 F). I didn't like the way the temperature quickly rose whilst sat at a set of lights for no more than a few minutes. The fan quickly cut in to cool things down, but it was cutting in and out far too frequently for my liking. I bolted the engine fan back on again. That said, that was before I changed the thermostat for a jiggle pin type so not sure if things would be different if I removed the engine driven fan again?
Personally I dont like the electric fans for the very reason of that temp spike before they cut in, I prefere the gradual way a viscous fan works to keep the engine at a steady temp however and electric fan is always good to have fitted as a back up for the hottest days in heavy traffic or if anything else fails.
Hi Stina,
Can you still hear the timing set when you stand in front of the car? I have a double row steel timing set with a true roller chain in my Rover, and to be honest I can't hear it at all. Mind you as you know my Rover is pretty loud.. 8) so the fact that I cannot hear mine is nothing surprising.
Timing chain noise is one reason why Rover fitted as standard a nylon toothed timing wheel and a Morse chain. This combination is inherently quiet and for normal everyday use quite reliable, even if the nylon teeth do break off over time.
Ron.
Can you still hear the timing set when you stand in front of the car? I have a double row steel timing set with a true roller chain in my Rover, and to be honest I can't hear it at all. Mind you as you know my Rover is pretty loud.. 8) so the fact that I cannot hear mine is nothing surprising.
Timing chain noise is one reason why Rover fitted as standard a nylon toothed timing wheel and a Morse chain. This combination is inherently quiet and for normal everyday use quite reliable, even if the nylon teeth do break off over time.
Ron.
Hi Stina,
Since changing the camshaft and replacing the cylinder heads on your engine with SD1 items, have you noticed an improvement in performance? Has their been a change in fuel consumption? Have you noticed as to whether there has been a change in your exhaust note? Given that an exhaust system is a means of expressing how an engine might sound, having changed both the camshaft and cylinder heads, these should in theory initiate an audible change. So just wondering if you can detect one?
Ron.
Since changing the camshaft and replacing the cylinder heads on your engine with SD1 items, have you noticed an improvement in performance? Has their been a change in fuel consumption? Have you noticed as to whether there has been a change in your exhaust note? Given that an exhaust system is a means of expressing how an engine might sound, having changed both the camshaft and cylinder heads, these should in theory initiate an audible change. So just wondering if you can detect one?
Ron.
stina
New Member
Hi all . What is an acceptable amount of run out on a cylinder head ? Had a look at the SD1 heads i bought back along and checked them for straight , They are in good condition , been chemically cleaned , and their is no damage to the faces . With a straight edge i could get a .002 / 0.05mm ( nothing more ) under it in a few places , is that an acceptable amount to leave alone , will the gasket take care of this amount ? i'd rather not have them skimmed if they don't need it . This is taking a leap of faith that my old square is straight !
Ps does .002 equal 2 thou ?
Ps does .002 equal 2 thou ?
stina wrote,...
Hi Stina,
It does indeed! From the information provided in the official Land Rover engine overhaul manual from 1997, the maximum warp allowed in the cylinder head is 0.002". So you're right there on the allowed limit, any more and you would need to have them refaced.
Ron.
Hi Stina,
It does indeed! From the information provided in the official Land Rover engine overhaul manual from 1997, the maximum warp allowed in the cylinder head is 0.002". So you're right there on the allowed limit, any more and you would need to have them refaced.
Ron.
stina
New Member
Hi all , just waiting for the right time to swap the heads , and was wondering about the small oil leak from the back of the crank seal . It only amounts to a few drips over night and the same after being left for a couple of hours after a run . The car is 1974 so i don't know which type of seal it would have . It's not the sump gasket before anyone posts back , and i know the rope seals can get better with use , i've done about 3to4 thousand miles in it so can't see it'll heal it's self . I know the totally correct thing would be to deal with it , is it an engine out job , is it something i can live with ? the oil level never seems to drop . I don't really want to be pulling the engine out if it can be avoided .
Thoughts welcome
Thoughts welcome