Engine upgrade

My ammeter needle does exactly the opposite hence me wanting to wire it in differently.

Edit:- it does return to zero when the revs increase above about 1100.
 
Hi Stina

Well done for a working fan! Is the fan switched through a relay, I seem to remember you saying there was one in with the fan?

I understand the initial negative surge from the motor start, but I'm a bit surprised that your ammeter settles at a negative reading. Does that imply that the alternator is unable to cope with the additional load? Does the ammeter go further negative when you switch the headlights on? If so I'd want to put a voltmeter on the system and find out what voltage you are producing. Or does the initial tickover negative then go positive as you rev the engine?

Chris
 
Hi Chris . Just been out to fire her up . This is what's happening . On tickover the ammeter needle sits at 0 When i switch the fan on ( yes through a relay ) it flashes to -60 then settles around -5 to -10 . when revved it stays the same . turning on head lights makes no difference , no additional drop after the slight twitch of turning them on . When the fan is turned off it goes back to 0 . does this mean the alternator is struggling ? Will it do any harm as It charges straight back up . Is it just showing the power it's taking to run ?
 
stina said:
. It's the brown with white tracer that runs from the shunt up to the back of the ammeter :wink: Ran a 27 amp wire from here through an inline 25 amp fuse to the front of the car to feed the fan .
Click to expand...

stina said:
On tickover the ammeter needle sits at 0 When i switch the fan on ( yes through a relay ) it flashes to -60 then settles around -5 to -10 . when revved it stays the same . turning on head lights makes no difference , no additional drop after the slight twitch of turning them on . When the fan is turned off it goes back to 0
Click to expand...

Hi Stina,

The problem is that you fed the fan from the wrong terminal. The wires that go from the shunt to the ammeter are only for the ammeter itself, and you should not connect anything to them. You should connect it to the consumption part of the shunt, i.e. the terminals that some thick brown white wires are leaving from, to be connected to the light switches, or another brown wire is leaving to feed the horns, clock, interior light etc fuse.
I cannot be any more precise, but if you take a look at a wiring diagram you will see what i mean.

Demetris
 
Hi Demetris . Just been out to the garage for a look and had another look at the wiring diagram . I can see what your saying now . So can i use the thick brown and white wire off the back of the main light switch as it's easy to get to and my fan live runs close enough to reach it ? This is just the other end of the wire from the shunt to the light switch . This will save me removing the dash again , i can blank off the wire i have spliced into the ammeter and leave it there , it wont be connected to anything .
 
Stina, what you suggest is reasonable, albeit not quite the right way to do it.
Imagine that in case that you will have all the lights on at full beam AND the radiator fan will be on too, perhaps the current will be a little too much for this wire. Perhaps not, if the electrical system designers at Rover have overspecified this certain wire. Well, they always add a safety margin, but i cannot be sure at the moment how much this is.
However, in practice i think that you will be fine if you do it as you suggested now, and you can always pull a new wire the next time that you will take the dashboard apart.
 
Hi Demetris , yes that is my thinking . The wire on the back of the switch is substantial in size , and if i took the dash out i would still be connecting to this wire only closer to the shunt . The fan live will be fused right where it comes out of the light feed .

Paul ( testrider ) Ignore my previous advice of where i took the live from and read the last few posts :oops:

Thanks for the advice Demetris :D
 
Hi guys , been a month or so since the last lot of engine work . I've been grinding the valves into the SD1 heads and looking around for suppliers for some bits .
What do we think of these ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DI ... 3a6dae104a

and these ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DI ... 3a6dbe3a78

Pricing them against the usual p6 suppliers they seem good value . Are they correct parts for the job ? I believe all v8 rocker gear and push rods are interchangeable , stand to be corrected though :?:
Any one on here used these bits ?

Also am i right in thinking the p6 has no exhaust manifold gaskets ?
I see gaskets advertised , can they be used ?
Thoughts guys
Cheers
 
Stina,

I think it depends upon engine suffix number. On my A suffix engine there never have been exhaust manifold gaskets,I just clean off all surfaces, copper-slip both surfaces and bolt on (with locking straps of course)

Somebody on here will know the exact answer to your question, but I have heard among the classic clubs that there are some spurious parts about that seem very good value but are probably made in China and have never been anywhere near case hardening expertise so it is obvious they will not last long.

Its very much buyer beware I`m afraid, check out the suppliers as much as you can.
 
MJP6B said:
Stina,

I think it depends upon engine suffix number. On my A suffix engine there never have been exhaust manifold gaskets,I just clean off all surfaces, copper-slip both surfaces and bolt on (with locking straps of course)
Click to expand...

P6 and SD1 never had exhaust manifold gaskets fitted as standard, although they can be fitted. The lock washers are a waste of time, they're a PITA to get off, and yet the bolts are always loose when you finally do. Spring washers are a far better alternative, and they stay tight.
 
stina said:
Thanks for that , so the shafts , push rods may be too good to be true then ! I'll do a bit more digging about , no hurry . Any one out there running them ?

So the manifolds . How about these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-V8-Exha ... 35bd25b1b4

And these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Land-Ro ... 58882321e7

:?:
Click to expand...

I bought cheappies for my rebuild initially (more expensive than the ones you have in the link), but I found the rocker arm and shaft themselves to be of a poor fit. I ended up using the new shafts but with my old rockers arms, as they were a better fit on the shaft would you beliveve. http://www.classicroverforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12561
Additionally on the new versions I purchased if you compare the distance between centres from the rocker shaft to the pushrod (difficult to measure with accuracy) but I found that pushrod would have ended up closer to the rocker shaft by a couple of mm, which may upset the valve geometry.
 
Hi Lovel . Sorry i didn't reply sooner , your post must of slipped through the net , only just seen it .
Interesting your findings on the shafts / rockers . After reading through your thread i might just go for quality oe shafts and use my original rockers . It seems it's the shafts that wear on the underside so new shafts should take out best part of any unwanted movement . And help out with the budget using my rockers :D
Cheers Stina
 
I used exhaust manifold gaskets on my car, but only because they came in the complete V8 composite gasket kit that I bought. I also bought a stainless bolt kit at the same time which had flat washers and spring washers instead of the locking tabs and they're fine.
 
Cheers Paul . That's the way i'll go then .

Another question . The duplex steel timing gears have been on a couple of months and 5 or 6 hundred miles now , when the motor is warmed up i can hear the chain , or at least i think that's what it is . I don't mean loud or intrusive but can hear it " wirring " quietly on tick over when i'm stood in front of it . I'm not overly concerned , but does this sound about right . I would imagine they are a bit more audible than the standard timing set ?
 
Take the fan belt off and see if the noise changes to eliminate water pump/alternator .Distributor could be making a noise
 
Hi Stina

My money would be on the alternator for a whirring noise. So Dave has the right advice, have the belts off in turn and see if the noise goes away.

By the way, have you abandoned the engine driven fan yet?

Chris
 
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