Engine swap!

rockdemon

rockdemon

Administrator
Staff member
Hi All,

This weekend's project is a straight engine swap. Friday dismantle things as much as possible - saturday swap the engine(when my dad can be around to help) and sunday hopefully get things back together...! ( Seems ambitious but i can start high and lower my sights gradually...)

I helped a friendly mechanic swap a whole engine in a metro before but that's the closest i've come to doing this...

So I was kind of hoping that if i asked here you wonderful people may be able to help with general procedure and what i should concentrate on.

I was thinking it's best to leave the gearbox in the car, remove the radiator, grill and bonnet.

Is there anything difficult with separating the engine from the gearbox or is it a brute force job?

Thanks in advance for you suggestions! I really want to be driving this car not looking at it... :)

Rich.
 
I had the gearbox out as well when I last did it (see avatar), but years back my dad helped (by doing most of the work) me change a clutch in the 2200 I had at the time over the weekend & we just had the engine out then. The bonnet was off but not the grille as I recall though thats easy to do anyway. It seemed reasonably straight-forward though & was done in two days in the street (with a lot of rain) so we could get the hired engine hoist back on Monday.
 
Hi Joseph - this is a v8 with a bw35. guessing it's just a case of undoing the prop shaft and then pushing the crane back and up at the right angle to get it out? guessing the biggest danger with the gearbox is to the windscreen?

Hi Mr Rovering member :O) Hopefully the weather will be with us this weekend :O) Would you say it's easier to separate the engine and gearbox once it's out?

I'm guessing from what being said that it's much easier to undo the prop shaft than all the bolts around the bellhousing?

Thanks for the quick responses :O)

Rich.
 
I took mine out on my own a few weeks back.

Put the rear wheels on ramps, don't forget to mark the prop so that it goes back on in the same position, and don't forget to undo the earth strap :?

Have fun

Richard
 
rockdemon said:
Hi Mr Rovering member :O) Hopefully the weather will be with us this weekend :O) Would you say it's easier to separate the engine and gearbox once it's out?

I'm guessing from what being said that it's much easier to undo the prop shaft than all the bolts around the bellhousing?
Click to expand...

I would imagine both those statements are true though I haven't yet had the engine out of a P6B, only a P5B where I hoisted the car up from the front subframe leaving the engine & gearbox in situ.
 
I refitted a V8 and auto back into a shell a couple of weeks ago, front wheels on the ground, rear end lifted up on 4 post (although Ramps / Axle stands would be just as good), engine tipped right down at gearbox end, then dropped in.

The main problem is the bonnet slam panel, that's why there's no point taking the grill off, just take radiator out.
 
Hello Rich,

As has been said, it is most certainly easier to remove both engine and transmission as a complete unit. Once on the ground and with the bell housing cover plate removed, release the four bolts which retain the torque converter to the flex plate. You are now in a position to separate the two.

Best of luck with it all.
Ron.
 
Thanks guys - that's just what i needed - some high level does and donts for the P6. With whats been said i'll definitely move the car so it's facing down the drive rather than up it and use the ramps on the back. Engine and gearbox out remove four swap the gearbox and torque converter over ( assuming a torque converter which i know is fine is better than one which has been standing...) then refit!

THanks again all :eek:)

Rich
 
I've always found it easier to just remove the engine, rather than both the engine and gearbox unless you have the ability to jack the car up and play underneath with the gearbox.

As long as the back end of the car is on ramps, the engine comes out cleanly without any problems..
 
Hi Chris

I'm not sure which way to go. Maybe I'm best just starting and seeing how much clearance/space i have to work and make a decision then? It's probably going to be easier moving the crane (which has annoyingly small wheels) with just the engine so i think i'd go that way given the choice....

Rich
 
I go for the taking the engine and box out as one unit.

Things like hold the torque converter in place whilst trying to mate them back up will be easier for you that lying on the ground.

Make sure you are careful with the inhibitor switch the terminals can break and it is easy to bang them. also label them or dab the terminal and the cable with a spot of nail varnish to help when reassembling.

Also be careful when removing the gear selector cable or rods (depending which you have) plastic can break.

I would also recommend having some spare hoses to hand. nothing surer than one tearing or about ready to replace. do it no whilst the coolant is coming out.

Colin
 
Another tip re the gearbox - mark up the adjustment of the kickdown cable when you disconnect it. It's a critical adjustment to getting the gearbox to work properly again afterwards!

Chris
 
chrisyork said:
Another tip re the gearbox - mark up the adjustment of the kickdown cable when you disconnect it. It's a critical adjustment to getting the gearbox to work properly again afterwards!

Chris
Click to expand...

Better still, if it's the later shorter cable, remove it complete with the bracket, that way you preserve the adjustment.
 
This is PAE622F - so as the earliest 'on the road' production P6B in the UK i guess it'll be the older version (unless someone has altered it!)

Good point though - i wouldnt have thought about the kickdown cable until it was too late!

Rich.
 
TBH even if it's the early longer cable you can still remove it on the bracket to preserve the adjustment, but IIRC the bracket is a little more fiddly to get off. It was frequent mod even on early cars to update to the shorter cable, as gearboxes were only sold with that length of cable regardless of the age of the car they were being fitted to.
 
Well the main support post on the 2nd hand crane i bought on ebay just bent at the bottom. Net result is an engine which is almost out but is staying there for a few days. A neighbour is bringing a crane home from work in a few days.... Fun eh?

Has anybody else had a better day???
 
rockdemon said:
Well the main support post on the 2nd hand crane i bought on ebay just bent at the bottom. Net result is an engine which is almost out but is staying there for a few days. A neighbour is bringing a crane home from work in a few days.... Fun eh?

Has anybody else had a better day???
Click to expand...

Yep, much better! Managed to get a Jag V12 and box out of the XJRS today :) Hoist handled it perfectly :)
 
Nice work :O)

Need to remember the mantra it can be done and hurdles are meant to be jumped.

Given what happened to the crane I'm really glad we only took the engine out and not the gearbox... Only problem at the moment is the gradual leak of atf fluid from the torque converter i think (Hope it's not the gearbox). The engine is at an angle in the bay because we didnt have much choice once it gave way!

You're certainly getting through your collection of cars at the moment eh? Is that engine going in your XJ?(One down the side?)

Rich.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top