2200TC Project

Vern Klukas said:
My first though was that both bolts should drop in from above, but Brian is right the manual does say the LH bolt should be inserted from below. Must be for clearance with the twin carb manifold & carbs.

Yours
Vern
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On the TCs you cannot fit the LH bolt from the top without removing the carbs or at least the heat shield on the bottom of the carb assembly. There is just not enough room to get the bolt straight enough to fit into the engine mount bracket. If you replace the original through hole mounts with the VW mounts where there is no separate nut, it has to be bolted from the top and is a lot of "fun" with the carbs in place.
I was bolting both sides from the top (with the original mounts as that does seem logical and potentially safer) and did not discover the error in my ways until the first time I tried to remove the engine without removing the carbs. The bolt has to stay in place as you remove the engine and it is an extra thing to get hung up on as you manoeuvre the engine out.
 
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Yes it does seem a little off safety-wise, it is a self locking nut I think, but still. A split pin would make me feel safer. I'll look into it, now that I know what the parts are, when refitting I might look into a safer alternative.
 
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I would never imagine removing the engine with the carbs still in place.
Since you would have drained the coolant anyway, it is a 10 minute job to take them off with the manifold.
 
Demetris said:
I would never imagine removing the engine with the carbs still in place.
Since you would have drained the coolant anyway, it is a 10 minute job to take them off with the manifold.
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Absolutely, but the bolts had to come out to support the engine while I replaced the gasket on the engine side-cover.
 
Took the car out this evening, noticed one of my headlights is gone. Outer beam LU 54522973 37.5W. Geoff has HL103H4 , are they OK to replace with?
 
Just had the exhaust examined. The "Olives" joining the sections have blown and completely rotted away. Anyone know of a supplier or a fix?
 
Hi all, I'm trying to remove the Decking Panel for restoration, I thought it was just a couple of small bolts to remove and the petrol hose. Any hints or advice welcome.
 
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Wins don't stock them and JR's are being deliberately obtuse, does anyone know the correct Choke Cable length for a 2200TC. Going to the rear Carb and plain ended.

www.jrwadhams.co.uk

Choke cable: 2000/2200/3500 - J R Wadhams Ltd

Choke cable: V8 - Choke cable: V8.Choke cable: 3500 - Choke cable: 3500 models.Choke cable: 2000/2200/3500 - Choke cable: 2000/2200/3500 models.Choke cable: 2000/2200/3500 - Choke cable: P6 2000/2200/3500 modelsThis is a substitute cable with a r
www.jrwadhams.co.uk www.jrwadhams.co.uk
 
If you're not sure get the long one and trim it to length to suit, standard practice nowadays because modern cars don't have them. There's plenty of choice on Ebay of very similar for less money.
 
It can be done with the centre console in place. It's much easier if you are left handed. The most difficult part is fitting the choke light switch. If you don't bother with that it's a doddle.

PS there is a special tool shown in the WM, which is easy to make from a box spanner.
 
harveyp6 said:
It can be done with the centre console in place. It's much easier if you are left handed. The most difficult part is fitting the choke light switch. If you don't bother with that it's a doddle.

PS there is a special tool shown in the WM, which is easy to make from a box spanner.
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I'll have a look for that tool Harvey thanks.
 
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