2200TC Project

BrianMac123

BrianMac123

Active Member
I really should have done this a few months ago when I got the car, [ 1977 Richelieu Red,, Manual ] but I didn't know my way around the forum and, having only a small garage it makes photography difficult. I haven't really done anything deeply mechanical other than cleaning the carbs, new gaskets on the manifold, replacing missing nuts and bolts, plugs, distributor cap, HT leads. cleaned the engine bay, cleaned the interior three times, taking care of Rust. I'm stocking up on parts but I'm still waiting for the Workshop Manual from the Club too, only two emails sent and no reply. So please consider this a placeholder, I'll post all my stuff here in future instead of randomly around the board. Cheers chaps.IMG_20220204_125455.jpg

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Wow, you must spend a lot of time cleaning those seats. The nylon covers were by far the most comfortable IMHO.

Note: if anyone can source me an interior of that quality there's a grand cash waiting for you...
 
PeterZRH said:
Wow, you must spend a lot of time cleaning those seats. The nylon covers were by far the most comfortable IMHO.

Note: if anyone can source me an interior of that quality there's a grand cash waiting for you...
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Thanks Peter, about 8-10 hours, I calculated, not counting drying times. Carpets are just as nice btw.
 
Nuts conundrum

I ordered new rocker cover nuts, the taller one on the left, is what came off and fits perfect. The new ones "top out", they don't reach the metal/rubber cap. I contacted the suppliers and the reply I got was that "They are original parts and they've sold hundreds over the years". Is the TC somehow different? Thanks.
 

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The one on the left is the same as my original fittings on a 1968 2000TC. Sort of a disappointing response though. In the mean time, can you use some washers as a spacer? Overtightening the valve cover nuts can crack the cam bearing blocks they thread into, so be careful.
 
sdibbers said:
The one on the left is the same as my original fittings on a 1968 2000TC. Sort of a disappointing response though. In the mean time, can you use some washers as a spacer? Overtightening the valve cover nuts can crack the cam bearing blocks they thread into, so be careful.
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Thought so. I remember them from my 2200SC also. The gap is quite substantial so washers are out. Yes, overtightening is not uncommon here, I'll be careful. And since it's only cosmetic, I can live with the old ones. They're not too bad. Thanks Steve.
 
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BrianMac123 said:
Nuts conundrum

I ordered new rocker cover nuts, the taller one on the left, is what came off and fits perfect. The new ones "top out", they don't reach the metal/rubber cap. I contacted the suppliers and the reply I got was that "They are original parts and they've sold hundreds over the years". Is the TC somehow different? Thanks.
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Which supplier?

Just looked at the ones on a 64 and 67 engine, and they're the same as the one on the left. Both fitted with a spring washer.

The right looks too short.
 
Thanks for replies all. Wins Int. Surprising response. since I've been placing orders for parts like every other week from them.
If you scroll up to the first post, you'll see them in situ.
 
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Not just a copper washer, one of those folded ones that crush easily, because you're not meant to really tighten those past snug + a bit.

And regardless of what Wins says, the short nuts are not correct. I have a package of NOS ones and they are the tall ones on the left.

Yours
Vern
 
Another job taken care of sans Manual. Emails coming back to me from the P6 club. Can't get hold of anyone to order a Workshop Manual.

Clutch Master Cylinder loosened off, bottom nut was tricky, mini socket set to the rescue again. I fiddled the extension on first then applied the little wrench. The little bit of built in "wobble" on the Bahco is a great help. I have a rebuild kit but I'll wait for the Manual to go any further. And I replaced the Slave Cylinder.
 

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"The securing bolts holding the idler to the steering bracket are known to work loose. This is probably the most common steering defect on a P6 and shows up as imprecise or wandering steering. Tighten them as tightly as you can get them, and ideally use thread-lock." P6 Club.

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I got a good turn on each today. 9//16" Another item for the checklist.
 
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I'm going to drain the oil, then flush it with a cheaper oil before the good stuff goes in. Should I change the Oil Filter before or after the flush? I'm actually leaning towards doing both because the oil that's currently in there looks quite nasty.
 
Hi all, Spring has sprung so jobs aplenty. I left the Clutch Master Cylinder alone, until I had a new Coil ready to go in, and a Manual. Both arrived during the week, albeit a Haynes Owner's Workshop Manual. A new Slave Cylinder is already in. So I took the old Coil out yesterday and had a proper look at the Master Cylinder. I have it loosened off from previously. I have a rebuild Kit, but after seeing it properly, I think I'll get a new one. The union nut is cross threaded and shredded from several attempts at removal it appears, and will not move. pitb.
Anyway I'm going to undo the hose at the Slave.

If anyone could offer some advice on the removal of the Master Cylinder it would be appreciated. The Manual isn't clear, or maybe I'm just being stupid. I can cautiously pull it out to the rubber boot, but not sure on the push-rod nut that needs undoing. Thanks in advance.

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Don't buy a brand new cylinder, it'll be Chinese. Get yours reconditioned with a stainless steel sleeve in the bore. Then you'll only ever have to replace the seals should they need it.
Past Parts in Suffolk will do the job on yours or Mark Gray should be able to do you an exchange unit which has had the same treatment.
 
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