1973 2000sc on the Isle of Wight
- Thread starter richarduk
- Start date
Re: 1973 Rover P6 2000sc on the Isle of Wight
[Sun Aug 15, 2010 8:51 pm ]
Reposted to get started.
So I finally got the courage up and took the offside sill to look at he jacking points. They are going, well gone really but compared to what I've seen others have had to fix I think I've got of lightly. The rear was repaired without the old rust being removed so looks a mess when you look throw the rust holes so that will have to all be cut out.
So I've cut out the worst of the rust, turns out the rust was in repair sections that had been welded over the old rusted body. But the inner sill seems to be rusting away from where it joins the floor, I can't see how far into the box section the rust goes. Any ideas how to tackle this? I guess the first step is one of them endoscope things and have a look inside?
[Sun Aug 15, 2010 8:51 pm ]
Reposted to get started.
So I finally got the courage up and took the offside sill to look at he jacking points. They are going, well gone really but compared to what I've seen others have had to fix I think I've got of lightly. The rear was repaired without the old rust being removed so looks a mess when you look throw the rust holes so that will have to all be cut out.
So I've cut out the worst of the rust, turns out the rust was in repair sections that had been welded over the old rusted body. But the inner sill seems to be rusting away from where it joins the floor, I can't see how far into the box section the rust goes. Any ideas how to tackle this? I guess the first step is one of them endoscope things and have a look inside?
So got under the car today to remove a load of muck that had been panted over it over the years including some cheeky bits of filler in some small holes. The outer part of the inner sill is in good condition although in a few places has gone a little tea bag. So will need cutting out.
Looks in really good nick around the C post, it is the C post the centre one, between the two doors??? So will not need to cut that out at all which is good.
Along the edge where the floor meets the inner sill there are little holes like this that imply the inner part of the inner sill needs cutting out and sorting.
So the plan is to split where is comes together and cut out the bottom part of the out panel of the inner sill leaving a bit after the bend so I don't have to form that. This will give access to mend the inner part of the inner sill.
Anyone got a pic of these panels with the correct names on it so I can refer to them correctly?
Looks in really good nick around the C post, it is the C post the centre one, between the two doors??? So will not need to cut that out at all which is good.
Along the edge where the floor meets the inner sill there are little holes like this that imply the inner part of the inner sill needs cutting out and sorting.
So the plan is to split where is comes together and cut out the bottom part of the out panel of the inner sill leaving a bit after the bend so I don't have to form that. This will give access to mend the inner part of the inner sill.
Anyone got a pic of these panels with the correct names on it so I can refer to them correctly?
webmaster
New Member
I usually refer to the middle post as the B/C post as it incorporates both.
I seem to remember there being drain holes in the bottom of that section as standard, you may find they're just starting to rust a bit.
Have a look at https://www.jrwadhams.co.uk/shops/p6/p6bodyfront.asp to help with panel names etc.
I seem to remember there being drain holes in the bottom of that section as standard, you may find they're just starting to rust a bit.
Have a look at https://www.jrwadhams.co.uk/shops/p6/p6bodyfront.asp to help with panel names etc.
This morning after popping along to the IOW classic car show (pics later when I've removed reg numbers) I got stuck into removing the last of the rust around the rear jacking point. This is what I have left, not too bad, normal story of p6 rust I think.
Thanks to Kev for he's tip on saving the wiring loom. I cut a long strip out of some thin metal I have and wrapped it around the loom where it goes throw the rear cross member. Worked a treat at protecting it from the cutter.
Going to have a cup of tea then cut out some templates from old cereal packets I've been saving and then cut the new metal to shape and tack it in place. I'll post a follow up later.
Thanks to Kev for he's tip on saving the wiring loom. I cut a long strip out of some thin metal I have and wrapped it around the loom where it goes throw the rear cross member. Worked a treat at protecting it from the cutter.
Going to have a cup of tea then cut out some templates from old cereal packets I've been saving and then cut the new metal to shape and tack it in place. I'll post a follow up later.
I brought one of the tools that was suposed to put a lip into the metal but was not tat good. So I did it my self with the vice and two spare bits I had laying around, made a much better lip.
This is my first P6 weld, ok not very pretty but sold and works.
Getting better.
Should get the rest done tomorrow and the car will be back on the road for a week. Then next weekend I'll make a start on the front jacking point, as with the rear I may need to cut the inner sill were it meets the floor / bast unit, there is some tiny holes all along this seam.
This is my first P6 weld, ok not very pretty but sold and works.
Getting better.
Should get the rest done tomorrow and the car will be back on the road for a week. Then next weekend I'll make a start on the front jacking point, as with the rear I may need to cut the inner sill were it meets the floor / bast unit, there is some tiny holes all along this seam.
Finally go the important bits done.
This is the area from the chassis / base unit to where the inner sills meets it.
Took a shot before I put the end plate in and the last of the patches on the inner sill.
And with it all one, just have to create the curved section that covers the area from the start of the wheel arch and the jacking point, should last another 20 years, I hope. Well to make sure of that the next job is the front jacking point so no water / salt can get in.
Have to say, the welder has performed perfectly. Most of the welding done with the power setting min + 2 and wire speed 5 dropping to min + 1 and wire speed 4 where it got a little crappy. Only a few small areas when welding to the inner sill. Getting good penetration of the weld. The auto tint welding helmet is a god send, I can't recommend it it enough, get one on your xmas list now! @ £60 they are a must have!
This is the area from the chassis / base unit to where the inner sills meets it.
Took a shot before I put the end plate in and the last of the patches on the inner sill.
And with it all one, just have to create the curved section that covers the area from the start of the wheel arch and the jacking point, should last another 20 years, I hope. Well to make sure of that the next job is the front jacking point so no water / salt can get in.
Have to say, the welder has performed perfectly. Most of the welding done with the power setting min + 2 and wire speed 5 dropping to min + 1 and wire speed 4 where it got a little crappy. Only a few small areas when welding to the inner sill. Getting good penetration of the weld. The auto tint welding helmet is a god send, I can't recommend it it enough, get one on your xmas list now!
@ £60 they are a must have!
So this afternoon i've been making a start on the front tacking point. Taking the wing off was a breeze then I got stuck at taking the door off. What is the secret? Well a quick call to Kev and it was even easier.
First either un bolt this, with mine although not rusted the captive nut was spinning around. So I took it of the other end where it meets the body.
Then just loosen the locking nut and wind the lower door pin out and the door will lift off. Before I phoned kev I was trying to workout how you unbolt the hinges. Doh!....
Well again I think I got of lightly with the rust. No where near as bad as the rear. Just around the jacking point, I need to source the rubber sills that go along the edges the wing sits on and along the edge down to the jacking point as all mine have gone brittle.
Need to cut out a repare section here as it's a bit unsightly and the floor is dented too so need to bang that back, could have well been me jacking it up in the past who bent the floor.
First either un bolt this, with mine although not rusted the captive nut was spinning around. So I took it of the other end where it meets the body.
Then just loosen the locking nut and wind the lower door pin out and the door will lift off.
Before I phoned kev I was trying to workout how you unbolt the hinges. Doh!....
Well again I think I got of lightly with the rust. No where near as bad as the rear. Just around the jacking point, I need to source the rubber sills that go along the edges the wing sits on and along the edge down to the jacking point as all mine have gone brittle.
Need to cut out a repare section here as it's a bit unsightly and the floor is dented too so need to bang that back, could have well been me jacking it up in the past who bent the floor.
hermione149
Member
Richarduk wrote,
That was spooky because i had Pilkie sat in my kitchen
