1973 2000sc on the Isle of Wight
- Thread starter richarduk
- Start date
vaultsman
Well-Known Member
Job's looking good Richard...keep at it!
Alan at Classeparts...here you go. Very helpful chap!
http://www.motorcardirectory.co.uk/home/a0_C/a0_CL/i4314_Classeparts_Ltd
Cheers,
Alan at Classeparts...here you go. Very helpful chap!
http://www.motorcardirectory.co.uk/home/a0_C/a0_CL/i4314_Classeparts_Ltd
Cheers,
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
He also has an ebay shop
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/classeparts/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686
Dave
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/classeparts/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686
Dave
Some more welding today.
First filled in the hole from the floor to inner sill. At the last mot the rusty floor had been plated. I cut this out with the rust and put in the new metal. Seems most of the rust I've cut out has been in more than one layer, that is the original rusty bit + a rusty repair section. I'm hoping my repairs will last longer.
Now the outer sill to the floor up to the jacking point. I'll do the jacking point tomorrow then it's job done for the offside.
First filled in the hole from the floor to inner sill. At the last mot the rusty floor had been plated. I cut this out with the rust and put in the new metal. Seems most of the rust I've cut out has been in more than one layer, that is the original rusty bit + a rusty repair section. I'm hoping my repairs will last longer.
Now the outer sill to the floor up to the jacking point. I'll do the jacking point tomorrow then it's job done for the offside.
rockdemon said:I'm really surprised at the results you're getting from that little gasless welder... I'm currently watching ebay like a hawk to get myself a machine... Pretty inspiring
Rich.
Compared to the £100 cheap o one I had it's a million times better. Worth every penny! Having a separate wire feed speed and low power settings have proved a god send. Also well worth getting one of them auto tint welding visors, they are just outstanding.
Finished of the front now, so that's the offside done. Next weekend it's time to start on the near side.
The last of the sill box section done time to do the jacking point.
The jacking point with the rust cut out, a bit fiddly.
Using old cereal packets I create templates for all my repair sections then cut-out using my jigsaw.
And now all fixed, one new jacking point.
And all painted up, job done. Just need to get new rubber sills for where the wing mounts.
The last of the sill box section done time to do the jacking point.
The jacking point with the rust cut out, a bit fiddly.
Using old cereal packets I create templates for all my repair sections then cut-out using my jigsaw.
And now all fixed, one new jacking point.
And all painted up, job done. Just need to get new rubber sills for where the wing mounts.
rockdemon said:We'll i've just picked up a gasless welder that goes down to 25amps. just need some sheet metal, helmet, gloves and some tin snips and i can start showing you how to make a real mess
As someone else said here, that's what angle grinders are made for.
:wink: For cutting my repair sections out I've used my old cheap jigsaw I brought years ago and had laying around. It's finally paid it's way.
This weekend just a few little jobs. First I fitted an Accu Spark kit.
Needed it file down one of the screws to get it to sit flush, only took a few seconds.
Fits as quick as fitting normal points, had to set up the timing again as it fires at a different point so throw the current setting out by a long way. As I got a cheap second hand strobe light from eBay that was a quick job.
Runs very smooth now, just as it did when I fit new points but this time the tuning will not drift out as the points ware. Also behaves a lot better when cold and on the choke.
I've left it fitted with the standard coil and ballast resister as A I could not find it and B the kit is supposed to work ok with a ballast resister. Although I'm not sure if there is one fitted to the car, there must be one but I could not find it. If I measure the voltage at the coil it's 12.5 volts, I thought with a ballast resister it's supposed to be lower????
Anyway seems to work fine so no point messing about fitting the Accu Spark coil I also brought, well not yet.
Needed it file down one of the screws to get it to sit flush, only took a few seconds.
Fits as quick as fitting normal points, had to set up the timing again as it fires at a different point so throw the current setting out by a long way. As I got a cheap second hand strobe light from eBay that was a quick job.
Runs very smooth now, just as it did when I fit new points but this time the tuning will not drift out as the points ware. Also behaves a lot better when cold and on the choke.
I've left it fitted with the standard coil and ballast resister as A I could not find it and B the kit is supposed to work ok with a ballast resister. Although I'm not sure if there is one fitted to the car, there must be one but I could not find it. If I measure the voltage at the coil it's 12.5 volts, I thought with a ballast resister it's supposed to be lower????
Anyway seems to work fine so no point messing about fitting the Accu Spark coil I also brought, well not yet.
Just a short update. just serviced the old girl and done my pre MOT checks. The brake switch operated by the fluid pressure has been getting worse at turning the lights on and having just put a new one in as the old one, which was also 'lazy', had been leaking I decided to fit the standard type with a switch pulled by a spring. Works a treat. Very simple to do. I had a switch from my 1999 CBR 600 FX that was replaced when I change the rear sets (foot rests) and just made a bracket and used two self tappers to mount the bracket. The spring locates in the same hole as the spring on the brake peddle that pulls the peddle back up.
On a more alarming note I had felt the steering being less precise that it normally was. So when I checked it over, I had expected there to be a joint out. In fact it turns out the idler arm was loose on it's mount!!! Easy fix but how the hell did all four bolts come loose!
Just need to sort the wiper delay out, it's on all the time which is a pain. But i'm ready for the MOT, i'll book it in tomorrow. Runs out on the 25th.
On a more alarming note I had felt the steering being less precise that it normally was. So when I checked it over, I had expected there to be a joint out. In fact it turns out the idler arm was loose on it's mount!!! Easy fix but how the hell did all four bolts come loose!
Just need to sort the wiper delay out, it's on all the time which is a pain. But i'm ready for the MOT, i'll book it in tomorrow. Runs out on the 25th.
I think the spring pull type of brake light switch is much more satisfactory than the Rover hydraulic type. An old fashioned case of the simpler the better in engineering!
The steering idler coming loose from its bracket is actually extremely common, and rarely picked up by MoT testers! If it does it a second time I'd source some higher tensile bolts and torque it up to their limit! (standard would be M 8.8, stamped on the head, ought to be able to get some M 16's)
Solution to the wiper delay is most likely to be the sponge inside the delay unit. Remove the old one and replace with a something cut from some foam wrapping.
Best of luck at the MoT station!
Chris
The steering idler coming loose from its bracket is actually extremely common, and rarely picked up by MoT testers! If it does it a second time I'd source some higher tensile bolts and torque it up to their limit! (standard would be M 8.8, stamped on the head, ought to be able to get some M 16's)
Solution to the wiper delay is most likely to be the sponge inside the delay unit. Remove the old one and replace with a something cut from some foam wrapping.
Best of luck at the MoT station!
Chris
Yes, after doing my mod I could not help thinking, that was so easy why didn't rover do it?chrisyork said:
Never knew that, last MOT it was fine as I would have checked the steering before the MOT. I don't think we both would have missed it. :wink:chrisyork said:
I'll have a quick look tomorrow lunch time, although i'm hoping the rain will hold off and I can take my bike to work, she's not been out for a couple of weeks.chrisyork said:
Thanks guys.
So today I've been replacing the windscreen. I've got a replacement clear one, not the Sundym one I wanted but at £50 can't complain and I can change it later in the year. As with all these jobs though a few things crop up the slow you down. Apart from not feeling too great I also found some rust that needed fixing so i'l l put the new screen in tomorrow.
You'll notice that I left the bonnet on, and I think that is the smart move. Apart from getting the panel out, just a little wiggle, it did not get in the way at all and I saved my self a load of messing about getting it on and off.
So this is why it failed, big white splodge saying " after 38 years, I give up, time to split...."
With the windscreen wipers removed there are four screws and the two nuts on the wiper spindles and with a little wiggling the panel comes out no problem.
There a few rivets need to be removed then the chrome can be pluued off. Put on some think gloves and it feels sharp enough to cut you if you make a slip.
Little tip, make sure you charge up your cordless drill the day before.
With the panel removed there is the center bracket and the two at each end to remove. Once that is done a big tug and the screen will come out.
All out and time to clean up so it's ready for the new screen.
And the rust, that is now fixed, i'll post the pictures tomorrow.
You'll notice that I left the bonnet on, and I think that is the smart move. Apart from getting the panel out, just a little wiggle, it did not get in the way at all and I saved my self a load of messing about getting it on and off.
So this is why it failed, big white splodge saying " after 38 years, I give up, time to split...."
With the windscreen wipers removed there are four screws and the two nuts on the wiper spindles and with a little wiggling the panel comes out no problem.
There a few rivets need to be removed then the chrome can be pluued off. Put on some think gloves and it feels sharp enough to cut you if you make a slip.
Little tip, make sure you charge up your cordless drill the day before.
With the panel removed there is the center bracket and the two at each end to remove. Once that is done a big tug and the screen will come out.
All out and time to clean up so it's ready for the new screen.
And the rust, that is now fixed, i'll post the pictures tomorrow.
I've now got the replacement screen in as well as the other little jobs for the MOT done.
I found some more rust in the offside A piller so I welded that up today. Then I put the screen back in. The old rubbers were ok to reuse, I think when I put the proper Sundym screen in later i'll invest in new seals. I used some black screen sealant from Halfords, only one tube needed.
I put the seal in the window frame and put the sealant in the gap the screen will sit in. I then put the screen in. It was then I realized I had forgotten to prep the bottom seal / bracket that holds the screen at the bottom in. So I used two bits of soft wood to hold the screen in position. I also used these bits of wood to leaver the screen up when I fitted the bottom bracket, did't want to use the bolts as the thing to push the screen in position, thought that may have damaged the screen.
Whilst the screen was in I prepped the bottom seal / bracket. Should have done this before putting the screen in, whoops. Mine is in good condition so a quick rub and spray will see it good for a while.
Putting everything back is in reverse, the chrome goes back very easily. The rubber door seal does not, got it done in the end.
When I brought the screen I checked it over, did not see anything. Before I fitted it I gave it a good clean, again did not see anything. Once in, I found a very small chip! Doh!
But searching on the net seems has to be 10mm or greater in zone A to be a fail, this is only 4mm in size.
That's what these guys say....
http://www.glassdoctors.co.uk/windscree ... indscreen/
And these....
http://www.motester.co.uk/CarOwnersGuid ... ested.aspx
I found some more rust in the offside A piller so I welded that up today. Then I put the screen back in. The old rubbers were ok to reuse, I think when I put the proper Sundym screen in later i'll invest in new seals. I used some black screen sealant from Halfords, only one tube needed.
I put the seal in the window frame and put the sealant in the gap the screen will sit in. I then put the screen in. It was then I realized I had forgotten to prep the bottom seal / bracket that holds the screen at the bottom in. So I used two bits of soft wood to hold the screen in position. I also used these bits of wood to leaver the screen up when I fitted the bottom bracket, did't want to use the bolts as the thing to push the screen in position, thought that may have damaged the screen.
Whilst the screen was in I prepped the bottom seal / bracket. Should have done this before putting the screen in, whoops. Mine is in good condition so a quick rub and spray will see it good for a while.
Putting everything back is in reverse, the chrome goes back very easily. The rubber door seal does not, got it done in the end.
When I brought the screen I checked it over, did not see anything. Before I fitted it I gave it a good clean, again did not see anything. Once in, I found a very small chip! Doh!
But searching on the net seems has to be 10mm or greater in zone A to be a fail, this is only 4mm in size.
That's what these guys say....
http://www.glassdoctors.co.uk/windscree ... indscreen/
And these....
http://www.motester.co.uk/CarOwnersGuid ... ested.aspx
testrider
Active Member
Good work Richard, thanks for the pics. I have the oppsite to you - a good screen and shot seals so they need replacing sooner rather than later.
How is the screen sealed to the base unit across the dash top?
I don't think that chip should give you any problems for the MOT and insurance compaines usually repair them for free now if you need to.
How is the screen sealed to the base unit across the dash top?
I don't think that chip should give you any problems for the MOT and insurance compaines usually repair them for free now if you need to.
No probs.testrider said:
I assume you mean on the bottom edge of the screen. There are two seals, one rubber that fits in the long metal bracket the supports the screen and one that looks like foam (mine is a bit poor, not sure how it comes out) that runs along the edge of the dash that the screen pushes against. So I would say there are three seals to replace. Anyone confirm I have this correct?testrider said:
No no probs, not even an advisory on it. Is only 4mm in size, guess I was being over sensitive. I'll just add a Sundym screen and new Seals on my long list of jobs to do, maybe i'll wait till after the respray (that is a few years away)testrider said:
