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Am in the process of overhauling my rear callipers and would appreciate clarification regarding the correct fitting of the piston seals. My workshop manual states on page 39L of the Braking system section under the heading Rear Calliper Assemble paragraph 4 "Fit the new seal to the hydraulic...

I have been following the "brilliant" threads on here regarding dismantling the rear callipers. Have checked the bores, and seals and armed with the correct seal kits am now ready for reassembly. I will follow this to the letter, however I would feel a lot happier in my work if I could...

On my 2000sc there is very little clearance between the downpipe from the manifold and the car mainframe. Most times on cold start up the exhaust bangs against the frame. To hopefully rectify this I have ordered a couple of the vw engine mounts which seem to be popular on the forum. Last year, I...

The eezibleed kit, number G4062 which I bought a few months ago does not have a suitable top or cover to fit what I believe to be the standard P6 brake fluid reservoir. Could any of our resourceful members suggest a method of making an alternative top for the reservoir to enable me to use the kit.

I have played around with my sc for sometime. It has always sounded noisy and rough. For that reason I am reluctant to put the car on the road having concerns re. Its reliability. Recently however I decided to get stuck in and try and sort it out. I always knew that my valve clearances were not...

I have a 2000TC and after 120K the block has just about had it. I bought an engine from a 2000SC auto with the intention of replacing my block with the one from the auto. My 2000TC engine number is 44606356A and the SC auto is 40512498J. Progress of the swap has been slow with one thing and...

My 2000TC is fitted with a 123 Ignition system. Could someone tell me what should happen within the distributor when I suck the vacuum advance pipe from the carb. Should I be able to see movement of the base plate or rotor arm. Currently I can see or hear nothing. georgecook

I have noted that there are a couple of feeds regarding the position of the camshaft when checking the timing. With the EP pin on the flywheel in position, one feed indicates that the rearmost cam lobe must be pointing skywards( valve open) and others as well as the manual indicate that number...

Am still having problems sorting out my car (1972 2000TC) engine. It still sounds like the proverbial bag of hammers. Anyway, late yesterday I removed the distributor while checking the firing order and timing and am now without a spark. The car was fitted with a 123 ignition electronic...

My 200TC has been off the road for sometime but managed to pass its first MOT under my care last week. At idle the engine is erratic and "lumpy" but at higher revs seems smooth enough. After say 20 minutes running in the garage with the first half minute on choke and several blips on the revs...

My carburettors have been on and off so many times during the last few months that the wire strands on my choke cables are fraying badly. Connecting the frayed cables to the carb linkage is now a very frustrating exercise. .. My queries are, is there an alternative to these stranded wire...

2000TC cylinder head wanted, preferably with valves, guides and springs.... inlet and exhaust manifold not necessary. George Cook 01429820310

Am trying to do what I believe are the correct "things" to try and resolve my 2000TC engine problems. Have moved the distributor( electronic) around, changed plugs and checked the compression. The compression varies between 125psi and 160., which I believe is probably acceptable.. The oil...

Can anyone help with my flasher problem I have an early Rover workshop manual and a Haynes manual dated 75,unfortunately neither of these shows the indicator circuit with Hazard warning. I have recently refitted all four wings and am trying to sort the electrics...... My car,a 72 2000TC is...

Have just about finished repairing/ replacing the inner and outer sills after four months ownership. My welding has improved, which is pleasing, however I still struggle with the upside down welds these are not pretty but still strong.This seems to me to be slow progress but nevertheless it is...

The Bitumastic pads fitted in the front footwells and to various parts of the car wings etc, apart from hiding loads of rust, what are they for?. Are they to stop drumming, ( noise levels) or to reduce wear on these panels or to stop rust During restoration is it advisable to replace them, and...

As with a number of members I am currently having to replace huge chunks of metal around the sill area, especially at the front and rear jacking points As I am relatively new to welding , repairing all four jacking points back to original spec ( I wish) is doing my head in. Is it acceptable to...

Could anyone advise the routing of the cables going to the rear of the car. Am not sure which way the l/s lights and fuel tank go. Do all the cables pass into the boot area via the hole at the top of the R/s rear seat bulkhead and then pass over to the l/s rear wing lighting unit and fuel tank...

A couple of times over the last few weeks as I have been lying under my TC measuring for patches and stuff I have had a dig at the bitumastic in various places with an old screwdriver. Its quite therapeutic( is that spelling correct?) actually , what I have found is quiet good but there are...

Am fairly new to welding, however I have managed to replace a few rusty patches and the right side inner sill. It is certainly not pretty but is strong. When I am able to get my head into a suitable ( comfortable ) position I can usually achieve a decent weld run. At present my main problem is...

Hello.. First time on the forum I bought my 1972 2000TC a couple of months ago. It has an MOT and was "a good solid car with all welding done". It looked OK, I knew some work was required, but it was only when I removed the outer sills.............I know, I know, I know most of the...