As a rebuilder and down the road repower?
Cheap enuff!
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/logan-vi ... 1036182947
Cheap enuff!
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/logan-vi ... 1036182947
Worth a punt?
- Thread starter billoddie
- Start date
It is almost free at just $100, so not much to lose to start with Brenten.
Mind you, it might needs thousands spent on it to make it ready to use though. The need of a new head gasket suggests the possiblity of a slipped liner, particularly given that it is a big bore engine.
Ron.
Mind you, it might needs thousands spent on it to make it ready to use though. The need of a new head gasket suggests the possiblity of a slipped liner, particularly given that it is a big bore engine.
Ron.
Hi Ron.
Thanks for the reply.
I was thinking 100 isn't much to make a start on something that I could rebuild over time...then when I'm ready I can just swap it over.
Is a slipped liner particularly problematic?
When you say a big bore engine, isn't this just the 3.5 bored out?
Apart from the increase in capacity, what improvements do these 3.9's offer?
And do they offer themselves more readily to upgrades?
I have looked at the 4.6 scenario but tbh, price is a stumbling block
I have read elsewhere that these 3.9's are supposed to be the "sweetest" of the Rover offerings.
ideally, I really only want to spend @ 2k on something
Thanks for the reply.
I was thinking 100 isn't much to make a start on something that I could rebuild over time...then when I'm ready I can just swap it over.
Is a slipped liner particularly problematic?
When you say a big bore engine, isn't this just the 3.5 bored out?
Apart from the increase in capacity, what improvements do these 3.9's offer?
And do they offer themselves more readily to upgrades?
I have looked at the 4.6 scenario but tbh, price is a stumbling block
I have read elsewhere that these 3.9's are supposed to be the "sweetest" of the Rover offerings.
ideally, I really only want to spend @ 2k on something
Hi Brenten,
Yes, for this to happen, and I am not suggesting that it has, rather it just may of, the block needs to crack just behind the liner, hence the liner is no longer held tightly, so it drops slightly. Coolant then flows out from the water jacket surrounding the liner and enters the cylinder. The only course of action is to have top hat liners fitted, which offer many benefits, not least of all preventing this problem from ever occuring again.
No, the block for the 3.9 litre engine, and there were more than one derivation, used a different casting.
Yes, spend the same amount of money and receive far more "bang for your buck" than spending the same on a 3.5 litre engine.
That particular 3.9 from the look appears to be an interim engine, which were the best of the 3.9 litre engines. The heads are 10 bolt, so unless they were changed at some point, then the block will have been drilled to match. This would suggest that the block has the 38A bottom end, which means that it has been designed to be cross bolted. This feature is far superior to all earlier 3.9 litre engines and all 3.5 litre engine made prior to 1995.
Looks a bargain Brenten.
Ron.
Yes, for this to happen, and I am not suggesting that it has, rather it just may of, the block needs to crack just behind the liner, hence the liner is no longer held tightly, so it drops slightly. Coolant then flows out from the water jacket surrounding the liner and enters the cylinder. The only course of action is to have top hat liners fitted, which offer many benefits, not least of all preventing this problem from ever occuring again.
No, the block for the 3.9 litre engine, and there were more than one derivation, used a different casting.
Yes, spend the same amount of money and receive far more "bang for your buck" than spending the same on a 3.5 litre engine.
That particular 3.9 from the look appears to be an interim engine, which were the best of the 3.9 litre engines. The heads are 10 bolt, so unless they were changed at some point, then the block will have been drilled to match. This would suggest that the block has the 38A bottom end, which means that it has been designed to be cross bolted. This feature is far superior to all earlier 3.9 litre engines and all 3.5 litre engine made prior to 1995.
Looks a bargain Brenten.
Ron.
1996 Discovery confirms my suspicions, 10 bolt block then.
Definitely worth buying Brenten :wink:
Ron.
Definitely worth buying Brenten :wink:
Ron.
Ok...so went and bought this engine. (pics to come).
In the process of dismantling it and have run into 2 problems...
1) How in the blazes do you remove the bolts around the heads? I mean they are TIGHT!!
I am aware they are torqued down...but I cant get them to budge!
2) The bolt/nut (?) that is at the front of the crank is also similarly tight...got a mate to stop the back part moving...but cannot get the thing to loosen.
Any tips/tricks/cheat here?
Or what am i missing?
Also, any thing I should be particularly aware of when dismantling?
Thanks gents
In the process of dismantling it and have run into 2 problems...
1) How in the blazes do you remove the bolts around the heads? I mean they are TIGHT!!
I am aware they are torqued down...but I cant get them to budge!
2) The bolt/nut (?) that is at the front of the crank is also similarly tight...got a mate to stop the back part moving...but cannot get the thing to loosen.
Any tips/tricks/cheat here?
Or what am i missing?
Also, any thing I should be particularly aware of when dismantling?
Thanks gents
A friend of mine ran a local garage, and he used to loosen the pulley bolts by fitting a large breaker bar onto it, turning the engine so that the bar was resting on the chassis rail and then cranking the motor :shock:
He was very silly, but it did work.
If you turn the engine onto its side, then fit the breaker bar so that you undo the head bolts by pushing downwards, i.e. pushing the engine into the floor, it's usually enough to loosen them. Always difficult with the engine rolling around though.
Best of luck with it.
Richard
He was very silly, but it did work.
If you turn the engine onto its side, then fit the breaker bar so that you undo the head bolts by pushing downwards, i.e. pushing the engine into the floor, it's usually enough to loosen them. Always difficult with the engine rolling around though.
Best of luck with it.
Richard
Demetris
Well-Known Member
quattro said:
http://www.classicroverforum.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16530&start=15
About half way down the page... :roll:
Hi Brenten,
Look forward to seeing the pics
The cylinder head bolts are 'torque to yield' and are considerably tighter than the HT bolts used to retain the heads on the P6B. Before you refit the heads, you must buy a new set as the old ones should not under any circumstances be reused.
The crankshaft bolt is also much tighter than that on the P6B in terms of the specified torque setting. The P6B has a torque setting of 160lbs/ft, your engine 200lbs/ft.
Ron.
Look forward to seeing the pics
The cylinder head bolts are 'torque to yield' and are considerably tighter than the HT bolts used to retain the heads on the P6B. Before you refit the heads, you must buy a new set as the old ones should not under any circumstances be reused.
The crankshaft bolt is also much tighter than that on the P6B in terms of the specified torque setting. The P6B has a torque setting of 160lbs/ft, your engine 200lbs/ft.
Ron.
Hi guys.
Thanks for your replies...been out of internet action for last few days.
Got the motor sorted...got all the head bolts out with a big torque wrench and a single hex 5/8 socket...after rounding the first one with a 12 point 16mm socket (that .125 of a mm makes a diff apparently!).
Threw it on the back of a mates trailer and took it to a workshop who rattlegunned the crank bolt off and whipped out the rounded headbolt...$10.
Bargain!!
Got it mostly stripped down...loos pretty good overall.
Think it has been apart before...bores are all crosshatched...end 2 "waterholes" of the heads were totally blocked with white caked stuff...can see where the headgasket was leaking, but liners are all good.
Hoping to replace...camshaft, lifters, pushrods, gaskets, headbolts (might use studs)...timing pulley and chain...likely also valves, and maybe bottom end bearings. (should i do rocker gear/assemblies...where do you stop?)
Any advice in how to obtain useful, economical (is that a tautology?) increases in torque/power?
Should I keep the original inj system?
(pics soon).
Brenten
Thanks for your replies...been out of internet action for last few days.
Got the motor sorted...got all the head bolts out with a big torque wrench and a single hex 5/8 socket...after rounding the first one with a 12 point 16mm socket (that .125 of a mm makes a diff apparently!).
Threw it on the back of a mates trailer and took it to a workshop who rattlegunned the crank bolt off and whipped out the rounded headbolt...$10.
Bargain!!
Got it mostly stripped down...loos pretty good overall.
Think it has been apart before...bores are all crosshatched...end 2 "waterholes" of the heads were totally blocked with white caked stuff...can see where the headgasket was leaking, but liners are all good.
Hoping to replace...camshaft, lifters, pushrods, gaskets, headbolts (might use studs)...timing pulley and chain...likely also valves, and maybe bottom end bearings. (should i do rocker gear/assemblies...where do you stop?)
Any advice in how to obtain useful, economical (is that a tautology?) increases in torque/power?
Should I keep the original inj system?
(pics soon).
Brenten
Sounds like it is coming along nicely Brenten. Ideally you would replace the rocker assemblies, but if you do, avoid cheap ones. Either genuine Land Rover, which are as dear as poison, or OEM which are still dear but rather more affordable. Same applies to lifters and pushrods. If you have the heads serviced by an engine shop, they will fit new valves if you ask them to, or they'll just do what needs doing. I think you'll find if you fit studs, then the heads won't fit over them when the engine block is in situ. Same if you try and remove the heads without first taking the engine completely out.
In terms of increases in power, it will certainly have more poke than your existing engine. You could look at an alternative Australian made camshaft, some nice gains there over the standard 3.9 profile.
I remember the first time I came across a tautology in terms of definition was during Discrete Mathematics at University. Consider two propositions generated by p and q: ~(p ^ q) and (~p) V (~q). At first glance, they are different propositions. In form, they are different, but they have the same meaning. So basically, using an unnecessary repetition of different words which in context have the same meaning. So what you wrote is not a tautology. Any advice in how to obtain cost effective, economical parts etc is a tautology.
Look forward to seeing the pics,
Ron.
In terms of increases in power, it will certainly have more poke than your existing engine. You could look at an alternative Australian made camshaft, some nice gains there over the standard 3.9 profile.
I remember the first time I came across a tautology in terms of definition was during Discrete Mathematics at University. Consider two propositions generated by p and q: ~(p ^ q) and (~p) V (~q). At first glance, they are different propositions. In form, they are different, but they have the same meaning. So basically, using an unnecessary repetition of different words which in context have the same meaning. So what you wrote is not a tautology. Any advice in how to obtain cost effective, economical parts etc is a tautology.
Look forward to seeing the pics,
Ron.
testrider
Active Member
It looks a bit dirty, especially in the lifter gallery, but there's nothing that won't clean up.
The blocked waterway on the head is the one that I think is blanked off by the inlet manifold, if so that would be typical build up left by not having any flow and should all scrape off.
The blocked waterway on the head is the one that I think is blanked off by the inlet manifold, if so that would be typical build up left by not having any flow and should all scrape off.