Tapping top end

lol, difficult jobs make for a break in the tedium of "jobs I dont want to do" and provide a challenge. I find using a right angled engineers scriber useful for breaking (fatiguing) the threads out once you get to the point that your drill is at a point where you are starting to contact the wanted metal. A long and labouious task but can be ameliorated by the application of frequent alcohol (but not at the initial drill stage) :LOL:

Graeme
 
Hi guys
Some progress ! The offending bolt is out Leaving a good thread . Lots of heart stopping moments , but we got there . I want to use studs as stan did to re assemble if you have any advice stan? Pa is on a mission to track down threaded bar , nuts ect this week . Need to know how to prime oil pump also . Any tips ?
Have some good pics to post when student comes back from the dead ! He went on a bender last night !
Good night my internet friends
stina
 
I am seriously impressed Stina! That is one of the most difficult jobs engineering has to offer, so I think you can be inducted into the full title of master fitter!

Chris
 
stina said:
Hi guys
Some progress ! The offending bolt is out Leaving a good thread . Lots of heart stopping moments , but we got there . I want to use studs as stan did to re assemble if you have any advice stan? Pa is on a mission to track down threaded bar , nuts ect this week . Need to know how to prime oil pump also . Any tips ?
Have some good pics to post when student comes back from the dead ! He went on a bender last night !
Good night my internet friends
stina
Click to expand...

Hey Stina! Great result...congratulations! :)

If you do go down the studs route, I got some lengths from ebay...for example:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-16-UNC-thre...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5197dc6869

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-16-UNC-thre...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item230e4e5a70

You'll need about 6.1/4" to replace the 5.1/2" bolt, and 5.1/2" for the 4.3/4" ones. (Contact the seller for a combined postage price).

Downside to the studs - the radiator needs to be removed to fit/remove the pump.

Re the oil pump, I made up a tool like this to prime the pump with the dizzy out.

100_2208.jpg


Cheers,
 
v3m81g.jpg

k9zy8y.jpg


Hi guys
Some pics as promised .
Thanks Chris for your vote of confidence in my and pa's ability . As i said their were a few tense moments !
I am going to go for the stud option as Stan has done . If ever it has to come off again theirs less to worry about . If all this works out o.k i want to get my scabby radiator rebuilt when finances allow .
I have reassembled throttle linkage today , and think i can feel kick down operating , or maybe i'm just getting carried away . Have at least lost the slack in the linkage though . Stan how fast do i need to spin the oil pump to prime it ?
I can feel a bodge coming on , have some old chain saw plug sockets i can make a priming tool with . Might have to break out the MIG .
On a lighter note do you all like my bonnet rod extension ? I can supply a similar kit to anyone interested . A proper piece of back street boddging , after hitting my head the fifth time on the safety catch ( i'm 6ft ! ) i decided on this ingenious piece of engineering !
Cheers all
stina
P.s sorry engine pic on sideways . don't know how to rotate it
 
Yes, that bonnet safety catch can bring out some interesting language can't it? :)

An alternative to the priming tool is to pack the pump gears with Vaseline, and the pump should then self-prime when cranking.

Being the cautious sort, I Vaseline-packed the gears but also used the priming tool as I wanted to see I'd got pressure before my hand went near the key.

The oil pump and dizzy run at half engine speed so if you can spin the pump around 1,000 rpm you should see oil seeping round the rockers if you've got the cover off. Alternatively, with the ignition on, a willing helper (Pa? :) ) in the driver's seat should see the gauge reading coming up. Better, if you have one, to use a drill where the speed builds up gradually rather than instantly.
 
You can usually tell when you've got pressure as the drill soon notices the drag when the pump is pulling liquid and not air :wink:
 
Hi Stina

You mention possibly getting the radiator overhauled. Just a quick reminder that, if you do that, get the current two row core replaced with a three row one. The V8 is a bit marginal on cooling, if everything is in top notch condition, no problem. Either excessive use - climbing an Alp - or anything not optimum, and they suffer from overheating. Yours ought to be OK after this round of work, but since the difference in cost is only pennies when you upgrade when you are having the work done anyway, it's a good investment for the future.

Chris
 
Hi Guys .
Carbs back on this afternoon , all cleaned and slack in linkage dealt with . Looked back to chris' post and worked through . have both carbs opening to full throttle at the same time . Also both pistons dropping to bottom together . I then connected the vertigle throttle rod to the horizontal pedal bar , and adjusted the vertigle a couple of turns to rid the last of the slack . By then Phil was home and full throttle in the car equates to carbs fully open . The nipple on the inner kick down cable still sits on the top of the outer cable . Does this sound right ( if i'm making myself clear ? )
Yes i was thinking uprated radiator eventually , but as long as mine doesn't leak when i put it back in that;ll have to wait a few months . Spent too much all ready !
Stan have my RPI front oil seal . How to remove old rope one ? Does that steel retainer leaver out ? Any advice ?
cheers stina
 
stina said:
The nipple on the inner kick down cable still sits on the top of the outer cable . Does this sound right ( if i'm making myself clear ? )
Click to expand...

Providing the crimp (your nipple :? ) has been set in the correct position to start with then it should be just resting on the top of the outer cable with everything at rest. You'll be able to adjust the pressures upwards should you find the need to do so once everything is all up and running, but if for any reason you needed to lower them (say if the crimp had been put on incorrectly making the pressures too high) then you would need to cut the crimp off the cable to be able to do so, but that's something that we don't need to worry about yet.
 
stina said:
Hi Guys .
Carbs back on this afternoon , all cleaned and slack in linkage dealt with . Looked back to chris' post and worked through . have both carbs opening to full throttle at the same time . Also both pistons dropping to bottom together . I then connected the vertigle throttle rod to the horizontal pedal bar , and adjusted the vertigle a couple of turns to rid the last of the slack . By then Phil was home and full throttle in the car equates to carbs fully open . The nipple on the inner kick down cable still sits on the top of the outer cable . Does this sound right ( if i'm making myself clear ? )
Yes i was thinking uprated radiator eventually , but as long as mine doesn't leak when i put it back in that;ll have to wait a few months . Spent too much all ready !
Stan have my RPI front oil seal . How to remove old rope one ? Does that steel retainer leaver out ? Any advice ?
cheers stina
Click to expand...

Sounds like you're getting on great! :)

Yes, the seal's held in the steel oil thrower, which will be staked in position in 3 spots.

timingcoveroilseal.jpg


When you've got these out, make sure you smooth out these staking marks in the recess before you fit your new seal.
 
Hi guys .
Bit of confusion with my nipple then ! I will refer to it as a crimp from now on . How ever this could get confusing at bed time ..!!! It is resting on top of outer cable though so this sounds about right . Guess i'll only know when it's mobile again . Thanks for that page Stan , will have a go at it tomorrow pm . Will also order studs . It's at least nice to work on now with parts cleaned and painted . Starting to look nice down in the engine room !
stina
 
Hi guys . Bit more done today . New crank seal fitted , few more bits cleaned and fitted , and made up a tool to prime oil pump . The question is will the pump prime with just the drill or does it have to be filled with grease ? I really don't want to take it apart , new gaskets ect if it can be avoided . Found threaded bar locally for water pump bolts . Can collect Thurs , may be ready for for firing up Sat !
stina
 
You wont need to fill the pump with Vaseline if you prime it with a drill. You should hear the drill slow, and see the oil coming up to the rockers.
 
2ujlb2d.jpg

Hi guys
Bit more progress . Timing cover on . Oil pump primed , it was good to hear it drag the drill down ! water pump on , and few more brackets and bits fitted . Dizzy and fuel pump tomorrow . Then rad . Going for the fire up Saturday all being well !
stina
 
Looking good! That's the first time I've noticed it's got a 65 box auto, most of the "M" plates were 35's, so that's a good result.
 
Thanks Harvey
Camera on my phone not doing it justice , but a bit of paint polish and time on the scabby bits can make all the difference without breaking the bank . Lets hope she runs , and if the kick down works now that's a bonus !
stina
 
Hi guys
Given our best today . She is a runner again ! Good oil pressure and no horrible noises after the lifters settled down . All the various fluids and oils seem to be staying in their rightful places ( ie not all over the garage floor ! ) Still have a misfire under load though . She will rev out clean from 600 rpm , but on the road their is a real hesitation before it picks up under load . Timing is 6 btdc at 600 rpm (9.25 / 1 cr ) running the electronic ignition . Kept stopping to adjust mixture , seemed the more we richened it the better it got . but it got late and i was probably annoying the naybourhood thundering round the block so gave in . Think we are close to a base setting . Remembering the initial simonbbc ignition issues . It will now start and run on command , but i don't know where to go , fuel or ignition ?
Good luck with your rad plug Ron , wish i was knowagable enough to help , but that'll be the day !
Thanks to all of you for being there and helping . I would love to devote tomorrow to the cause but i have a family birthday to attend . If they had any feeling and weren't selfish they would only celebrate my birthday ! Any set up advice more than welcome guys ,
Any hooo ! a glass of wine and to bed !
Cheers stina
 
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