rear caliper overhaul

Rad.

Will screw away then! ;)

Yeah I test fitted the drag pins to suss it out and so that my parts bucket and was empty. I didn't want bits getting mixed up when I started pulling down the other caliper.

I also need to get some rubber washers to sit under the dust cap.
 
Glad I not alone having to rework rear brakes.sadly a case of mot rejection as near side simply wasn't working properly and hand brake unbalanced. Strip down found caliper seized in position...so reworked both sides. Rather a time consuming and diddly job involving dropping diff assembly etc. removing middle exhaust box off access etc.
Decided to fit new discs and pads etc as off car. Ouch bit of a setback ..wife not happy as potentially no holiday ....took opportunity to replace brake pipes too with stainless braided.
Only real snag found was trying to get drive shafts back on.... Seems once car is jacked up the sliding de Dion tube allowed sideways expansion .this making refitting shafts bit of an issue.
Just need to fix that now. Then check over front brakes.. Report advisory says one is sticking! Then it's bleed brakes... Argh always an issue. Then back to see if I can get some use out of car rather than sitting in garage for months on end.
 
classicalgreen said:
Only real snag found was trying to get drive shafts back on.... Seems once car is jacked up the sliding de Dion tube allowed sideways expansion .this making refitting shafts bit of an issue.
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Indeed!
Couple of methods I've used in the past - a ratchet strap to pull it back in; a helper sitting on the ground with their feet pushing against the hub. Correct method, I believe, is to start with longer bolts then swap for the normal ones.
But what I do now, is prevent that sideways expansion by supporting the bottom of the DeDion elbow before removing the driveshaft. I jack up the car with a trolley jack (and block of wood) under the rear of the sill, remove the wheel, place an axle stand under the elbow, then lower the trolley jack slightly until there's some weight on the axle stand.
 
Just moved mine as one caliper rusted up and not moving on pin.
Had to drop diff, remove middle box for access . Not extremely difficult but.. Heavy to drop and relift back . Decided to fit new discs and pads ,pipes. Found hardest part of all being bleeding system as nipple is very hard to get at.
If only they had used brakes mounted on wheels...love be simple. But it is...a rover
 
classicalgreen said:
If only they had used brakes mounted on wheels...love be simple. But it is...a rover
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Ford did that with the Mk4 Zephyr/Zody and the pivot pins used to seze up all the time because of their position, which doesn't happen anywhere near as often on the Rover.
 
What is the symptom of the pivot pin seizing ?

Happy Days, of this parish, is currently experiencing a caliper sticking on after braking which releases when the pedal is touched again. I'll let him explain why he was walking round with a bag of ice cubes on his hand last night!
 
pat180269 said:
What is the symptom of the pivot pin seizing ?
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Low efficiency, and the inner pad wearing when the outer one isn't.

pat180269 said:
I'll let him explain why he was walking round with a bag of ice cubes on his hand last night!
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Don't bother, I know already... :LOL:
 
harveyp6 said:
pat180269 said:
I'll let him explain why he was walking round with a bag of ice cubes on his hand last night!
Click to expand...

Don't bother, I know already... :LOL:
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We've been informed :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Note to Mick, if it's glowing orange and there's smoke coming from it, don't touch it to check if it's hot :shock:

Richard
 
The inboard brakes wouldn't be nearly the hassle if it weren't for the mechanical marvel & evolutionary dead end that is the Girling swinging caliper.

Yours
Vern
 
Vern Klukas said:
The inboard brakes wouldn't be nearly the hassle if it weren't for the mechanical marvel & evolutionary dead end that is the Girling swinging caliper.
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Without doubt the single best thing ever fitted to the P6.
 
I worked with a guy once years ago who had run 3 or 4 p6's. we got talking and he told me he used to cut the base unit to do the brakes then weld it back up again! Have you come across this harvey ?
 
pat180269 said:
I worked with a guy once years ago who had run 3 or 4 p6's. we got talking and he told me he used to cut the base unit to do the brakes then weld it back up again! Have you come across this harvey ?
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No. Where exactly would he cut the hole? While he was still cutting I'd have the job done....
 
I've heard the story for the past 35 years but have never seen any 'access panels' or talked to anyone with a car that actually had them cut.

Urban myth I reckon.
 
pat180269 said:
Ive never thought about where you would cut but the fuel tank would be very close!
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The tank is right on top of the calipers.

Access to the calipers & pads is something that I've never found to be a problem, there's loads of room. What I always find ironic is that the people who can't do them properly, normally because they don't know what they're doing, always complain about how difficult they are to get at, and yet they're the ones who always alter the adjustment on the cable.....
 
:LOL: completed my turn of having diff dropped to get to calipers.failed mot as one was not releasing correctly.
Turns out the hinge pin was rusted in ..luckily large dose of wd40 and few positive words about it's not having married parents..seemed to work.
Brakes sorted and new mot..did find out hard way it's not easy to bleed rear brakes due to position of bleed nipple . Wonder if they ever shot the designer?
Still not happy with handbrake..but it passed so what do I know..! Anybody else contemplating dropping diff..do use a trolley jack and ideally a friend.. Not so easy refitting on own. On a good note renewed brake pipes and nipple while off car and though several hundred quid out of pocket as went mad and fitted new discs and pads too..hoping to get some use on car in summer. Managed nearly 200 miles last year..wonder if I can double that?
 
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