Project "Avocado" P6 2200TC

B

BlueSkyraider

New Member
Hi,

Yesterdag was the first day there was sun, good temperature. No more freezing or snowing. So we got our hands dirty and did the first things on our Rover.
Washing, removing interior parts and curious as we are. Attached a battery and tested al the elektric stuff :LOL:

Look how dirty it was :(
1263844694_resized.jpg


After the handcarwash
1263844944_resized.jpg


Dirty interior
1263845039_resized.jpg


One cleaned, one to go
1263846642_resized.jpg


I found in the boot the pieces to replace the boot badge with the stuff to fix the spare wheel on the boot :mrgreen: (didn't know it worked that way :oops: )
1263847078_resized.jpg

Mind also our lovely Mini in the back 8) and don't mind the state of our house. That's also a lifetime-renovation project :LOL:
The full album can you find here :) http://cars.muziekkot.be/#2.0
 
Can someone tell me what kind of seats we have? Because for the backseat on the right side, I will have to look for a replacement. The stitches are all gone, and so is the structure of the leather. If I restitch it, the first time someone will sit on it. It will break again.
 
This seat style is known as "boxpleat". Be sure you have leather - it could be vinyl - and buying a leather one will then show up the rest. It's very hard to tell from the front surface.

The car looks like it is coming up nicely!

Chris
 
I think you were looking for manuals for your car?

How about this:

[urlhttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-2000-AND-2200-P6-BRITISH-LEYLAND-FACTORY-MANUEL_W0QQitemZ350306766791QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Books_NonFictionBooks_NonFictionBooks_SM?hash=item518fe90fc7][/url]
Regards

Chris
 
chrisyork said:
I think you were looking for manuals for your car?

How about this:

[urlhttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-2000-AND-2200-P6-BRITISH-LEYLAND-FACTORY-MANUEL_W0QQitemZ350306766791QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Books_NonFictionBooks_NonFictionBooks_SM?hash=item518fe90fc7][/url]
Regards

Chris
Click to expand...

Wow, thanks! You can beat someone to dead with a manual like that!! :mrgreen:


EDIT: We bought it and we should receive it in a couple of days :)
 
What we did today:

1264972512_resized.jpg

Close look to the "De Dion" suspension

1264972533_resized.jpg

Front suspension

1264972571_resized.jpg

Rotten on the inner right side

1264972588_resized.jpg

Rotten on the inner left side

1264972605_resized.jpg

1264972633_resized.jpg

Removed completely rotten sills on left and right side

1264972654_resized.jpg

Right rear wing removed.
NB: The left wing is also almost removed. Only the bolt on the bottom is difficult to remove. It turns crazy, and I can't fix the opposite side with a tool. I think I'm gonna use the disc tomorrow unless there is another - more gentle - way :)


PS: A big thank you again to chrisyork for the manual suggested above. It helped already very well today :D
 
You might not believe this, but your car is in excellent condition - very little rust! Avocado is one of the colours associated with going through the SD1 paintshop towards the end of P6 production. This paint process was notorious and added a new level to the amount of rust usually to found in a P6. You've got off very lightly! Make sure you waxoil absolutely every nook and cranny when you're finished - preferably with a high pressure aplicator run off a workshop compressor.

Chris
 
chrisyork said:
You might not believe this, but your car is in excellent condition - very little rust! Avocado is one of the colours associated with going through the SD1 paintshop towards the end of P6 production. This paint process was notorious and added a new level to the amount of rust usually to found in a P6. You've got off very lightly! Make sure you waxoil absolutely every nook and cranny when you're finished - preferably with a high pressure aplicator run off a workshop compressor.

Chris
Click to expand...

Yes, it's much much better than I had expected when I bought it :D
Still, I have to say. On the rear right jack point (is that the correct term?) it's also rotten, and on the front left jack point it's also pretty rotten. But besides that, the body is in good condition (so far) 8)

I hope the car to be mint in 2011 :)
 
Fast small question where I don't want to start a new thread for:

What size of key (is this also called this way in English?) do I need for the bolt on the end of the crankshaft. In mm I think it's 34, 35, 36mm or something.
It's for turning the engine/cilinders by hand.

I don't have the tools that can measure the size so deep in this "thing" where the belt for the alternator and cooling fan is running over :s

Thx for the reply('s) :)
 
Why not turn it over clockwise using the fan blades, if the water pump pulley spins inside the belt then just push down on the belt on the RHS of the pulley as you look at it from the front, when you try to turn the fan. It's even easier if the plugs are out at the time. I can't remember the size of the crank bolt on a 4 cylinder offhand, but if you were to use a socket on there, as you turn it the fan blades hit your socket extension, and your hands, and there wont be a lot of room between that and the radiator.
 
harveyp6 said:
Why not turn it over clockwise using the fan blades, if the water pump pulley spins inside the belt then just push down on the belt on the RHS of the pulley as you look at it from the front, when you try to turn the fan. It's even easier if the plugs are out at the time. I can't remember the size of the crank bolt on a 4 cylinder offhand, but if you were to use a socket on there, as you turn it the fan blades hit your socket extension, and your hands, and there wont be a lot of room between that and the radiator.
Click to expand...

If I try to turn the fan, the belt slips over the pulley of the crankshaft. Plugs are offcourse out at the time. So we think the segments of one (or more) cilinderheads is stuck. We sprayed already in each hole of the plug some WD40.
The car stood still for 25 years.

Everything in the car works.(lamps, headlights, wipers, horn, ...) Only thing is that the gear selector is stuck in 1st or 3rd gear and now we remarked that possibly the cilinders are stuck.

Trying to start the engine the normal way with the ignition key. De starter engine blocks too, due to the blocked cilinders. It's a bit of a bummer right now in the progress of restauration :(
That's why we want to try to loosen the crankshaft "gently" by hand.
 
I didn't realise that (most likely) the pistons were stuck in the bores. Try tipping some Diesel down the plug holes, but it will need a fair amount as the piston has a bowl in it which you will need to fill before there is enough to spill over down the side of the piston. If you do this it would be advisable to change the oil before you attempt to actually run it if or when it frees off.
 
I presume tipping Diesel down the plug holes has the same purpose as I did with WD40?
Actually I don't now if WD40 is a well known product in the UK :?:

I didn't know about the bowl in the piston heads. Maybe I need to spray some more in it :)
 
The Rovering Member said:
WD40 is very well known in the UK. But you're better off using diesel.
Click to expand...

A old boy I know swears by the de-siezing properties of Coca Cola...it does the job.

Lovely car incidentally. As Chris said, she is a survivor!

Cheers
Nick
 
A old boy I know swears by the de-siezing properties of Coca Cola...it does the job.
Click to expand...

AIUI that was the old style Coca Cola,... the stuff that you took with 2 asprins and experienced a 3 hour voyage to Tripout City :LOL:

I would use Diesel or Plus-gas, but tbh i think that an engine that has been stood for so long would require a full strip down as it more than likely that the gudgeon pins have seized in their bushes as well as the pistons in the bore,

The size of the crankshaft pulley bolt is 1 1/2in AF,the nearest metric is 38.10mm,....
 
BlueSkyraider said:
harveyp6 said:
Why not turn it over clockwise using the fan blades, if the water pump pulley spins inside the belt then just push down on the belt on the RHS of the pulley as you look at it from the front, when you try to turn the fan. It's even easier if the plugs are out at the time. I can't remember the size of the crank bolt on a 4 cylinder offhand, but if you were to use a socket on there, as you turn it the fan blades hit your socket extension, and your hands, and there wont be a lot of room between that and the radiator.
Click to expand...

If I try to turn the fan, the belt slips over the pulley of the crankshaft. Plugs are offcourse out at the time. So we think the segments of one (or more) cilinderheads is stuck. We sprayed already in each hole of the plug some WD40.
The car stood still for 25 years.

Everything in the car works.(lamps, headlights, wipers, horn, ...) Only thing is that the gear selector is stuck in 1st or 3rd gear and now we remarked that possibly the cilinders are stuck.

Trying to start the engine the normal way with the ignition key. De starter engine blocks too, due to the blocked cilinders. It's a bit of a bummer right now in the progress of restauration :(
That's why we want to try to loosen the crankshaft "gently" by hand.
Click to expand...


Hi BlueSkyRaider

She’s a lovely looking car and as others have pointed out she’s not in too bad condition.

I presume the crank pulley is still fitted and if so have you tried putting a long bar such as a crowbar across the crankshaft bolts to try turning it that way?

The more leverage the better for these things. Then you can apply gentle and progressive pressure to try to ‘break’ the cylinder that is stuck. I use a short bar to turn the engine by hand that way when I’m setting the timing etc. Saves having to pay over the odds for a large socket.

Good luck

Cheers

Dave
 
Time to post again something in here.

Last Tuesday we tried to turn around the crankshaft by hand. But it won't move.
We folded an 1/2" bar, and the 90° corner of our key exploded in 2 pieces after we used an 1/2" bar of a stronger material.

So the thing that I was the most affraid of when I bought the car, has become a fact.

1 moment I thought to give up the project and sell the car in pieces. As I don't have the knowledge at all, how to disassemble (well, that's not to difficult :LOL: ) and reassemble an engine.
But I'm as stuborn as this engine that won't turn. So I will disassemble the engine, and have a good look to the cilinders, cilinderheads etc. Hopefully it's not to bad and still saveble.
This will offcourse slow down a lot of my planning. And needs a good organisation of storage for the parts and a fixed place for the car for a long time period.

I don't want to replace the engine by a V8. A car needs to be original. If I decide to replace the engine. It has to be a 2200TC again. :)

In the fortcoming weeks I will dismantle a bit more the car like the doors, the wings and the windows. And then it will stop probably a bit until I'm sure I can organise and plan well how I will take care of the engine problem. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top