PAE .... Sleipnir???

Cool - thanks chaps :)

I've got the mains too. As we now have 3 v8s in the family i figured if they arent needed they'll get used eventually and i only have to take the sump off once this way - best to do these things once! :) And if the pressure isnt back after that then i'll look at changing the heads(which i need to do anyway) and cam rockers, chain etc... hoping to avoid that for now though.
 
Re: Low oil pressure when warmed up

Standard V8 P6b 1972 ,104,000km
As I stated in another posting the oil pressure drops off once the motor is warm . Car runs sweet- no rattles , temp is normal , oil light on and pressure is down on the gauge .
Ive now placed an inline capillary oil pressure gauge into the oil pump and the pressure is 20lb at idle and 40lb+ at 2,000rpm . Im OK with that
So I can now get a decent sleep at night .
I can only deduce that the oil pressure switch is intermittent when hot , and/or the relief spring is kaput .
So I will replace those two items and hopefully you will never hear from me again re the oil pressure
Gerald
 
well on sleipnir the landrover temp sensor seems to read higher than the 3rd party one.... so it must be the gauge.

Is the pressure relief spring behind the 1 inch bolt on the side of the oil pump or is it one of the smaller ones?

Thanks,

Rich.
 
rockdemon said:
well on sleipnir the landrover temp sensor seems to read higher than the 3rd party one.... so it must be the gauge.
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Rich, PAE IIRC has a strip speedo, therefore has a different temperature gauge than Stinas' round gauge dash, so it probably requires a different sender too.
 
rockdemon said:
well on sleipnir the landrover temp sensor seems to read higher than the 3rd party one.... so it must be the gauge.

Is the pressure relief spring behind the 1 inch bolt on the side of the oil pump or is it one of the smaller ones?

Thanks,

Rich.
Click to expand...

Sorry Rich didn't spot this earlier , yes that's the relief spring in there , opposite side to the sender , you probably know that by now though :oops:
As for the sender , that's a shame , it was all i needed to put mine right . If it's your gauge at fault then that's one thing , but if you need a different sender for the series 1 then that throws another question up as in they're being sold as one size fits all :?
 
If it's your gauge at fault then that's one thing , but if you need a different sender for the series 1 then that throws another question up as in they're being sold as one size fits all :?
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yeah was worth a shot :) It's the right number so it must be the gauge. I've lived with it like that since i first put a thermostat in the thermostatless engine so i'm sure it's not too much of a problem :)
 
Well finally swapped out the relief spring today... and unfortunately it hasn't changed it's behaviour. I guess that means it's the shells. If i get time i might tackle taking the sump off tomorrow otherwise it'll be next week...

Rich.
 
Yep. Going to change the shells then the heads. Almost tempted to go the whole hog and do the cam too...

Can anybody think of a reason why the oil pressure would go low under braking then come back once you've stopped sometimes?
 
That had occurred to me Harvey. It also occurs that it doesnt seem to take as much as it should to top it up. The bottom of the sump is a bit battered. Should I be swapping a new one on when i do this stuff? Is there a wrong dipstick that could cause this to read wrong? Also i'm thinking that the oil leaks could be from the sump gasket rather than the timing cover. I'm completely undecided on the wiseness of me taking that off and changing the chain, cogs and cam. Changing the heads I'm obviously going to check over all the rocker shafts again.

Would rather take it all apart once and know it's fixed than try 5 separate things if that makes sense? I can accept the car being off the road for a couple of weeks if i know i'll sort it!

Thanks,

Rich
 
rockdemon wrote,...
Can anybody think of a reason why the oil pressure would go low under braking then come back once you've stopped sometimes?
Click to expand...

My Rover used to behave in this manner. In my case it was nothing more than the oil pressure transmitter. Once I replaced the transmitter, the behaviour disappeared.

If in your Rover's case, that is not the cause, anything that is at all dubious should be changed.

Ron.
 
rockdemon said:
That had occurred to me Harvey. It also occurs that it doesnt seem to take as much as it should to top it up. The bottom of the sump is a bit battered. Should I be swapping a new one on when i do this stuff? Is there a wrong dipstick that could cause this to read wrong?
Click to expand...

If you can find a straight sump then i'd say fit it. Lots of P6B's seem to end up with sump damage, presumably because people let the crossmember slide off the jack.

There are lots of different dipsticks and tubes which can cause errors in the level.
 
i might try overfilling it by half a litre and see if the low pressure disappears before i do anything else....
 
the sender could be faulty i guess but the fact the engine tone changes on idle when it comes on make me think it's real.
 
If for argument sake you Rich had drained the sump beforehand, then ~4.5 litres will set the level pretty well right on the high mark.

Where ever that shows on the dip stick is where it should be. The only downside is with your sump all squashed in, the oil will be sitting too high in relation to the crankshaft etc.

engine tone changes on idle when it comes on make me think it's real.
Click to expand...

Now mine didn't do that, if it had then I would have looked for something far more sinister than just the sender.

Ron.
 
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