PAE .... Sleipnir???
- Thread starter rockdemon
- Start date
Hi all,
Looking at a shopping list to sort the shells on Sleipnir, bearing in mind that i need to keep the car in use as always....
Am I right in thinking this is all I'll need?
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-AJM539
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RTC2117P
What is the paste they put on the rear of the bearings?
Is there anything else I'll need to do this job or that's well worth doing at the same time apart from cleaning the sump out?
Thanks,
Rich
Looking at a shopping list to sort the shells on Sleipnir, bearing in mind that i need to keep the car in use as always....
Am I right in thinking this is all I'll need?
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-AJM539
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RTC2117P
What is the paste they put on the rear of the bearings?
Is there anything else I'll need to do this job or that's well worth doing at the same time apart from cleaning the sump out?
Thanks,
Rich
You'll need a gasket for the oil pickup too, and you won't know if your bearings are standard until you get them out and have a look. The paste is "Graphogen" and it goes on the bearing faces, not on the rear of the bearings. If you have a rope rear main you could replace that at the same time.
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
Rich
Do you have symptoms of shell wear? Have you checked the torque of the bearing caps? Do you have low oil pressure etc?
No point changing them if they ain't broke and you just know replacing them won't go according to plan if you are under pressure to keep the car in use.
Dave
Do you have symptoms of shell wear? Have you checked the torque of the bearing caps? Do you have low oil pressure etc?
No point changing them if they ain't broke and you just know replacing them won't go according to plan if you are under pressure to keep the car in use.
Dave
Hi Rich,
In the case of the main and big end bearings, the shells and the bearings are one and the same. The two shells form a continuous smooth circle around the crankshaft or big end journal, which in turn spins on a film of oil retained between the shells. If the journal were to ever make actual physical contact with the shells when in motion, the bearings (shells) would be "wiped" and would thus require replacement.
Ron.
In the case of the main and big end bearings, the shells and the bearings are one and the same. The two shells form a continuous smooth circle around the crankshaft or big end journal, which in turn spins on a film of oil retained between the shells. If the journal were to ever make actual physical contact with the shells when in motion, the bearings (shells) would be "wiped" and would thus require replacement.
Ron.
If you're chasing a recovery in lost oil pressure, then the main bearings are the ones to replace. Personally, unless they are rumbling though, I would be looking elsewhere for the loss, and there are plenty of contributors.
Ron.
Ron.
Where would you look? The rocker shafts are good, the oil pump face is pretty good (not perfect but better than the previous one so this couldn't really have caused it?)
The cam may not be great, but not sure i can do anything with that at the moment. Thinking that will be one for the refurbishing of PAEs original engine or a new 3.9/4.6 a way down the line.
Is there anything else that could be involved here?
Thanks,
Rich.
The cam may not be great, but not sure i can do anything with that at the moment. Thinking that will be one for the refurbishing of PAEs original engine or a new 3.9/4.6 a way down the line.
Is there anything else that could be involved here?
Thanks,
Rich.
stina
New Member
Outside of my remit Rich , but over and above the obvious , ( rocker shafts , gear , oil pump , etc ) how about the oil strainer , pick up in the sump ? Don't know much about it , but i've read on here of the gasket / seal giving trouble (Mr Quattro i think ? ) At a guess i'd say after being disturbed though :?
Not much help , just batting ideas for you
Not much help , just batting ideas for you
Stina made a good point about the oil strainer within the sump Rich, although I was actually thinking along the lines of the gauze being largely blocked. If that happens, the pressure will certainly drop.
Camshaft bearings are another that are often overlooked, although to replace these the engine needs to come out. The oil pump problems in terms of oil pressure reduction are rather more to do with the timing cover and where the gears reside within. The clearance between the gears and the inside surface of the housing will directly influence oil pressure. As the inside of the housing within the timing cover is abraded from grit within the oil, which passes through the gears prior to entering the oil filter, the clearance will increase thus lowering the oil pressure. The only cure is to replace the timing cover. The gears also will suffer damage as a result, but this in itself won't contribute to oil pressure loss in the same way as the aforementioned.
Wear of this nature can be very gradual, with regular oil and filter changes being vital in preventing such wear and subsequent loss of oil pressure.
Ron.
Camshaft bearings are another that are often overlooked, although to replace these the engine needs to come out. The oil pump problems in terms of oil pressure reduction are rather more to do with the timing cover and where the gears reside within. The clearance between the gears and the inside surface of the housing will directly influence oil pressure. As the inside of the housing within the timing cover is abraded from grit within the oil, which passes through the gears prior to entering the oil filter, the clearance will increase thus lowering the oil pressure. The only cure is to replace the timing cover. The gears also will suffer damage as a result, but this in itself won't contribute to oil pressure loss in the same way as the aforementioned.
Wear of this nature can be very gradual, with regular oil and filter changes being vital in preventing such wear and subsequent loss of oil pressure.
Ron.
OK, so maybe this is a case of dismantle with all the parts at hand, to replace as I go? I do have a spare front timing cover so could do that, but i guess that's next. First, i'll drop the sump, and clean it, change the strainer gasket, and decontaminate the strainer itself and check all the bolts are up tight on the bottom?
Thanks,
Rich
Thanks,
Rich
Hi Rich,
When new, the clearance between the edges of the gears and inside surface of gear chamber within the timing cover is only 0.002", which is very small indeed. Typically with every 0.002" increase above the original clearance, you can expect to see an oil pressure drop of 2psi. So if the clearance is for argument sake 0.010, then the oil pressure will be 10psi less, assuming no variation in any other parameters.
Also check by how much the gears protrude above the surface of the gear chamber. When all is new and with the gasket in place, the end float should ideally be no more than 0.0022". Again, if the end float is greater than this, oil pressure is reduced. As P6B and SD1 new timing covers are essentially non existant now, you just have to find the best that you can.
Ron.
When new, the clearance between the edges of the gears and inside surface of gear chamber within the timing cover is only 0.002", which is very small indeed. Typically with every 0.002" increase above the original clearance, you can expect to see an oil pressure drop of 2psi. So if the clearance is for argument sake 0.010, then the oil pressure will be 10psi less, assuming no variation in any other parameters.
Also check by how much the gears protrude above the surface of the gear chamber. When all is new and with the gasket in place, the end float should ideally be no more than 0.0022". Again, if the end float is greater than this, oil pressure is reduced. As P6B and SD1 new timing covers are essentially non existant now, you just have to find the best that you can.
Ron.