P6B S Project Car

jp928

Well-Known Member
#22
Thanks all for info. Did the HS8's bolt straight up, and were there any clearance issues? Maybe I should try to get the injection going? Can the std spill return system cope with injection pump pressures , or is new pipework needed?
 
#23
This is very hard for me to say.....but if you're thinking of going 3.9 anyway wouldn't the injection be a better option? I hate computers though so I'd put on a 4 barrel downdraft. I have a 450 on mine and it seems to go quite well - even better when I get around to fettling it.
 
#24
How about twin side draught Webers. Fits on a squarebore manifold that also takes a 4 barrel downdraught. Fits under the bonnet and looks awesome.
New weber carbs.jpg
Wow about 4 Webers? Still fits uner the bonnet and 2 x more awesome than the top pic?
jed-xover1.jpg

Or the EFI version?
Crossflow manifold.jpg
Or just go nuts, this 8 choke efi 50mm is the setup I am working towards, as I have a 590 cfm Holley, big valves, big porting, high comp, billet rods and forged pistons along with a host of other go-faster bits, but want MOAR power!
5.5 litre V8.jpg 5liter Rover V8 induction.jpg
I just need to work harder/win the Lottery to afford it however!!!!
Speed cost money, how fast do you want to spend?
Cheers
Guy
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#25
Thanks all for info. Did the HS8's bolt straight up, and were there any clearance issues?
The HS8 bolted to a manifold, but the manifold needed opening up, and so did the intermediate casting. The filter elbows needed extending, as the HS8 came out wider. There were no hood clearance issues.
Performance was good, I struggled to get an optimum needle profile, but was not far away. The four barrel has the edge at the top end.

My whole build has revolved around what I have either in the shed, or the scrap pile. The HS8 were ex Jag. The four barrel Autolite was ex Mustang from a friend. You have to weigh up how much to spend on an old Brit banger, and what the outcome is likely to be.
For anyone starting from scratch wondering if the outcome is worth it, I can say, yes it is. Knowing this now I would be happy to spend on fancy injection or quad webers from the outset as the Rover responds well to updating for the modern world and you can end up with a fast, comfortable, well sorted GT car that has a vital ingredient that moderns don't have - character !
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
#27
Next best porn to the 4 Weber (IMHO) is 3 x HD8 on an E-type, or even better, a C-type replica!
Despite not having the car due to the lockdown, and slow postage of some critical bits from UK, I have been gathering things I am going to need. Early up on the list is a 5speed box. The SD1 LT77s are getting very thin on the ground down here, and shipping from UK is prohibitive. Found a couple of boxes without bellhousing and/or gearchange, but finally found one today. Not only does it have the right bellhousing (ex TR7 V8), but after some pushing the seller found a complete gearlever, and an unbroken lever hold down cap! Most boxes I have seen in UK dont have a gearlever, or a bellhousing, and some people selling gearlevers want GBP50 and upwards. Last thing I will need now is an auto prop shaft, and I should be in business! Shouldnt be too hard to find even in Oz.
 

mrtask

Well-Known Member
#29
JP928, fit a lighter flywheel, it makes the car much more responsive. Granted, it is a little bit 'juddery' at slow speeds in heavy traffic, but the pay off is the fun to be had on twisty country lanes. Close second to an uprated front anti roll bar in my book of worthwhile modifications.
Fun gathering all the bits'n'bobs for the manual swap, isn't it?
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
#30
Car already has the uprated front ARB, so thats good. Got my LT77 the other day - out of a TR8. Had been using ATF oil - good. Drained oil clear of metal sheen. Input shaft very tight and true, so I dont think I will open it. No signs of leaks anywhere, or of zealous washing. All the remote mounting rubbers were dry, but showing signs of age so I replaced them. It has what looks like a blue speedo drive gear (isnt on my list of gear colours?), 25 teeth - should be white? I think it should be orange for a 3.08 diff - anybody know where one can be had please? Have silver soldered some gussets on the lever retaining clip - not elegant, but functional. For a box thats all metric, why is the gearlever knob thread 5/16-18 - is that a UNC pitch? Is it a common gear knob pitch? Also picked up an auto prop shaft cheaply (for here), so that should be everything needed for the job. I got some mounting rubbers off fleabay in anticipation a while ago, and they dont fit - the bolts are 5/16 UNF, instead of M8x1.25 - chasing a refund on that now. Elsewhere I have been going on about SD1 wheels and the nuts that dont fit well, still to be resolved....All I need now is the @#$%^&*() CAR!
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
#31
Checked that the LT77 was empty. Removed the plug from the oil pump drilling underneath, put some atf in it. Initially got nothing from the pump, so I added more oil, and it duly came out the hole nicely, just spinning the output shaft by hand, so pretty happy the pump is good. One more possible problem eliminated. Based on the gasket stuff at the joints its been opened before, so I hope the insides are all good. No signs of slack anywhere. Now to find a clutch release bearing carrier - metal ones are pricey new, many seem to be plastic of some sort now? Anybody in Oz got one spare please?
thanks
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
#32
Serious help needed. Front calipers need overhaul. RHS is off OK. LHS - top bolt rounded, cant get a grip on it. Bottom bolt came out easily. Cold chisel not moving it. Have split the caliper in half, removed the hub and rotor, so have access to the end of the bolt. Can rotate the caliper a few degrees around the bolt shank, but its not helping. Plan is to drill the bolt right through (halfway through now) and see if it frees up or breaks if we can enough load on it. Any and all suggestions welcome. Dont have access to welding or similar options unless we remove the whole upright, which is a real PITA!

Update - bolt fully drilled through now. Next plan is heat the outer end (upright area) to see if that will crush the bolt a bit now that its weakened by the hole. If not, will start cutting bits of the head with angle grinder to see if we can enough grip to loosen it, or break the head off - either result will be progress.
thanks

Edit - finally got it out. A couple of heat cycles followed by some 'freeze & Release' spray, and its done. The head doesnt look too good anymore. Had to do some excavation with a Dremel cutter to get a purchase for cold chisel, but once it let go it was easy. Now to move on.
 
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Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
#34
Next question - is there a common cause for very stiff window winders ?
thanks
I think it's just decades-old hardened grease in the mechanism. A door strip down would sort it although it's a fair bit of work. You could take the door card off & try to get some oil into the winder & gearing as an easier fix for the time being.
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#36
Checked that the LT77 was empty. Removed the plug from the oil pump drilling underneath, put some atf in it. Initially got nothing from the pump, so I added more oil, and it duly came out the hole nicely, just spinning the output shaft by hand, so pretty happy the pump is good. One more possible problem eliminated. Based on the gasket stuff at the joints its been opened before, so I hope the insides are all good. No signs of slack anywhere. Now to find a clutch release bearing carrier - metal ones are pricey new, many seem to be plastic of some sort now? Anybody in Oz got one spare please?
thanks
Can you please provide a location pic for this plug ? I have read of other people referring to a test port to check the pump, I have not seen one before.
Thanks
 
#37
just had a peek under my bonnet. label on rad coolant is same way ( so we can read it standing in front vow engine) alternator fan shroud is fitted correctly and not as in pic! agree HIF carbs .ad wrong fuel filter though if it does same job? you cant see my electric pump as its under fuel tank area at rear of car. if you follow fuel feed to filter directly down near rad/front of engine you ought to easily see if it goes into a mechanical fuel pump as they are fitted very near from timing cover area above sump pan. envious power steering as mine has old fashioned 'popeye' steering ( need spinach before driving in a car park! looks decent car .greta brightwork and repainted air filter housing . black under bonnet has typical been resprayed gloss black ( satin in factory finish) but looks good too.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
#38
Underneath the rear alloy cover there is a flat section (ie horizontal when box is upright) with two vertical threaded holes towards the sides, and in the centre there is another threaded hole plugged with a grub screw - around 1/8" allen key needed. Find a cross section diagram and it should show the drilling, as it takes oil from the pump up through the mainshaft bush and into the shaft. The SD1 manual has a diagram. After you are done, clean the threads as best you can, and refit the grub screw with loctite, and do it up tight - you dont want it coming out!

find the '342' notation, straight up above the '2' is the plugged hole. Mine seemed to be deeper in than in this diagram.
Yes, my coming car still has the mechanical pump.
 
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jp928

Well-Known Member
#40
Should have added that it takes quite a bit of oil in an empty LT77 to get the pump to pick it up when turning the output flange by hand. Normal capacity is 1.5L, and I probably added at least 0.5L before I got any oil out the hole, but once started it flowed out readily.
 
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