P6B S Project Car

jp928

Active Member
#62
They wont let you (or almost anybody!) into the country now, so not too concerned. Have you ever tried to carry 20L of any fluid any distance?
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#63
[QUOTE="jp928, Have you ever tried to carry 20L of any fluid any distance?[/QUOTE]
A very good point almost always forgotten by almost everyone when they want to go fast, and also by folks who just bimble around daily with a full tank of fuel. You are carrying near on 50kg of fuel !!!!
 

jp928

Active Member
#64
Overnight, still have a slow leak. New 5/16" fuel hose, with 2 clips on the delivery hose , done up as tight as I can manage, straight run at the screw head. Input line is bundy tube coming over the bellhousing from the reserve switch, runs along the block, bent up at 45d near the engine mount, then bent horizontal again to face the pump connection. The original end seems to have been cut off when a foreign pump was fitted. The two ends dont quite line up vertically, and the original rubber piece had a bend in it. When the bundy is free of a clip on the side of the block the connection over the other side seems very floppy, so I guess its a plastic hose over there. It takes a minute or more to produce a drip, so its slow but not acceptable. The hose is a good fit - not easily pushed over the bundy, needs persuasion. Have wiped a dry finger under the pump inlet connection(which is higher than the other connection), comes away dry. My only thought now is that there is a crack in the bundy....has anybody seen that happen? Need to cut some more off, at least making the connection easier to access? The original rubber bit looked like it was leaking at the input connection, and it looked pretty tired. Its clip was pretty tight, took a while to get it loose due to poor access. The reserve switch is pretty much inaccessible with the engine in place, IMHO.
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#65
I seem to recall there is an olive on that pipe connection to the pump, perhaps you need to cut the pipe back and fit a new olive.
 

jp928

Active Member
#66
The original end that screwed into the pump has been cut off, a non std pump fitted, and the feed pipe was connected to the pump with a short length of rubber. That was leaking, and now my new piece of rubber is leaking at the same point, despite 2 tight clips. I thought I had it fixed, but it was only due to low fuel - as soon as I pulled reserve the leak returned, and the reserve tap is also leaking now. Anybody know the size of the tap Oring please, so I dont have to pay silly money for postage from UK?
 
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mrtask

Well-Known Member
#67
9mm ID, 2mm thickness. Not an Imperial size, instead a metric item. !!?? At any rate, that is what is in my reserve tap, which I relocated to the back of the car beneath the tank when I moved my electric pump back there. The tap in the V8 engine bay isn't easy to get to, is it? I was very happy when I cut mine off during my auto to manual gearbox swap. I'm afraid I can't help regarding olives and such.
 

jp928

Active Member
#68
Thanks, will see if I can find a viton one here. If I needed them olives arent a problem. When I pushed the reserve thing in the leak there seems to have stopped. Just confused about why the hose is leaking/weeping even with 2 tight clips on the hose. Tempted to cut the bundy tube back to before the engine mount, so the join to the rubber is not so hard to get at.
When I get to replace the engine I will certainly do something on the reserve tap!
thanks
 

jp928

Active Member
#69
Been doing some more surveying of the underside. Both rear mufflers look very good....but they are cans from something else with the rover pipes welded on. They fit ok and have the proper flange and olive joints so cant complain much. The cross member and trailing arm rear bushes have just been done, front bushes look OK. The rubbers that support the diff plate are looking tired - the parts book says there are 2 different sizes of these (different heights), with no info on when or which models - anybody know if this change occurred at a known point? Would rather have new ones on hand before pulling them out. The diff brace bushes are tired, but I have replacements on hand for these. Finished installing LEDs in all the small exterior lights, just waiting for the LED flasher can to arrive. Going to fit a battery isolator switch as soon as I get a flat braid earth lead. Radiator is going to need a little work - the nipple for the overflow bottle is loose, and one of the mounts has cracked solder.
Replacing rubbers between the body and guards - is this a matter of drilling out pop rivets, replacing the rubbers and re-rivet? Without removing the guard ? Similar with rubbers between doors and guards?
thanks
 

jp928

Active Member
#70
Got the rockers and shafts from Island today. When I ordered the shafts they said I needed to order the plugs for the shafts, so I did, but the shafts arrived with the plugs already fitted. Assembled with assembly lube in the rockers, and will douse in oil once in place before starting it. The rockers are the late type where the valve stem pad is offset, but the actual rocker castings are all the same - not crooked. the old rockers were original - had a '73' cast in the side. The pedestal that was very difficult to get off the old shaft needed some wet'n'dry work before I could get it on the shaft.
 

jp928

Active Member
#71
Re the rocker shafts - Island said some old shafts needed plugs, seems later ones come already plugged - giving me a credit - a whole 6quid! Rocker assemblies all fitted, and the covers with rubber gaskets - bit fiddly getting the rubbers in place but all good now. Reversing the alternator bracket that was on the wrong way - all the bolt heads are 12mm...?? The tubes that connect the flame traps are pretty hard, with some cracks - whats the best replacement for these hoses?
thanks
 

jp928

Active Member
#73
Thanks for the source of the breather hoses!
Got new air cleaner elements. Apart from being small the old ones were not properly clamped - they could be turned in place easily. Compared to the new element the old ones were definitely due for the bin! I found 4-1/2" 1/4-20 bolts were just long enough to reach the threaded bridge, although getting the bolt started on the filter mount that is captive in the canister was a bit of a challenge.

Along the way....One of the bolts holding the mounting bracket to the canister protruded out of the captive nut at least 10mm, enought to stick into the filter element, so I thought I will remove that and shorten it, must be a ring in - none of the other bolts protruded out of the captive nut. The head was 13mm...
 
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jp928

Active Member
#74
Fuel lleak - due to access difficulty I decided to cut the pipe back to the horizontal section behind the engine mount, and lo and behold there was obvious evidence of rubbing on the edge of the mount - source of the leak! No visible hole or crack, but petrol is very penetrating. New longer rubber hose fitted, with 2 clips each end (to be sure, to be sure), and no leaks with several litres put back in the tank. As soon as I get a new earth strap for the battery (to go with my isolator switch) I should be running again.

Gear change seems pretty sloppy. From underneath there seems to be a piece of white nylon tubing protruding down out of the part of the remote selector shaft that the gearlever acorn engages into - is this normal? Nothing visible as a part there in the parts book. Cant seem to move it pushing from underneath with a driver.
 
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jp928

Active Member
#75
Next. Choke hangs on every now and then. On inspection the cable outer ends in a ferrule which seats into a socket on the carb body retained by a clip. This ferrule is loose in the socket - can move at least 1/8". Should this ferrule be locked into the socket somehow -? Nothing obvious visible...??
thanks
 

Demetris

Well-Known Member
#76
Gear change seems pretty sloppy. From underneath there seems to be a piece of white nylon tubing protruding down out of the part of the remote selector shaft that the gearlever acorn engages into - is this normal? Nothing visible as a part there in the parts book. Cant seem to move it pushing from underneath with a driver.
If the gearlever has a metal acorn then it should be the latest version where there must be indeed a nylon bush in the selector shaft end. Earlier versions used a gearlever with a plastic acorn that engaged into a plain selector shaft. As far as i know you cannot mix parts of the two systems.
 

jp928

Active Member
#77
Should the bush stick out below the hole in the shaft? Its at least 1/8" below the metal eye of the shaft.
thanks
 

jp928

Active Member
#78
Got the earth strap for isolation switch today, installed. Now to see if it runs- Yes it does! No rattle on a cold start, so the new rockers and shafts are doing their job. Added some more fuel, as I dont want to use reserve as last time it showed signed of leakage. Got several minutes of running , starting to warm...whats that puddle up the front ? Fuel - pump is leaking at the joint. Damn, now I have to siphon all the fuel out again. No big deal, now to order a new pump...Good progress all the same.
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#79
Next. Choke hangs on every now and then. On inspection the cable outer ends in a ferrule which seats into a socket on the carb body retained by a clip. This ferrule is loose in the socket - can move at least 1/8". Should this ferrule be locked into the socket somehow -? Nothing obvious visible...??
thanks
I seem to recall that there is not any additional spacer or ferrule to take up any slack at that point. One thing that surprised me is that the cable is multi strand and not solid, cables that are required to push things are usually solid. I am not using SU's any more so and have no need for a choke to start, but would like to hook up the cable in order to get a fast idle function whilst the motor warms, but the current multi strand cable won't push the fast idle cam off.
 

jp928

Active Member
#80
Installed most of a new pump kit - one valve came out with some brute force, and the hole required quite a bit scraping to remove old staking to get the new valve in - took more force than I was really comfortable with. Other valve was in a blind hole, so I left it in place. All back together now, but didnt enjoy the re-install of the pump, partly due to PAS stuff getting in the way. Pressure on the lever from the cam eccentric doesnt make it easy. Fired up very nicely (now the dwell is in spec), very little valve noise now.
 
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