New Project begins, 1974 P6 3500 V8


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I used M16 x 1.5. I think 5/8" UNF might work too, best pick the one that gives a full thread. The M16 was tough to get going.
I tried to get a half nut without success, so I got full nuts and turned them down to give a little thread through the nylon and have the bush compressed the same amount as if the pin was in there.


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I also used M16 x 1.5, and for some reason one side was much harder to get going and cut than the other. The second pin I made sure to chamfer with a flap disc which helped the starting, but I think the sizing on the pins isn’t very precise


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Yes I did, but I’ve not seen another vehicle other than ours with the factory pin threaded, just heard of it being done.
I’ve seen photos of cars with the Classeparts threaded sleeve which gets welded on top of the factory pin but needed special, smaller bushes which didn’t work out too well by all accounts..


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Well I've have been busy since lock down, fortunate to be working from home 9am-5pm but as now the wife & I have almost exceeded the garden stuff I've now been in the garage! (before she finds DIY projects)
So got the front put back together, made new wiring for the reversing lights, got it running on about 6 cylinders to turn it around, drove it gingerly up & down our track to test the 5spd box, (no brakes as need new front calipers) all seems well, box quiet on tick over but a bit noisy when engaging the clutch which a bit annoying as its all new, release bearing, clutch kit, new slipper pads, new release arm ect. I don't have the gear stick gaiter fitted so the hole is exposed where the gear lever comes through the trans tunnel so possibly i'm being a tad paranoid...hmmm

Squeezed the car back into the garage nose first to start the rear end strip down, all come apart with no fuss, no snapped bolts, and its all original panels, no welding ever, sadly this will change soon. The rust isn't to bad and expected in the usual areas, halfway through removing all the old underseal, a thankless task but rewarding when done, once complete I'll start to cut out the rust & replace with new repair sections, repeat process of then painting in a metal primer, spray on UPOL gravitex stone chip and then paint in satin black as per the front end. All the bushes will be replaced before refitting the whole rear end.
Any tips on a good brush on metal primer (mail order poss ) as I used Screwfix red Oxide on the front end but it reacted in places with the gravitex so wont use again, I can't think what I used when I did the red P6 several year ago...

Removed the fuel tank and sender & saw the reason why the fuel gauge didn't work!...rusted & seized solid, new one required!
The pic that shows the fuel outlets coming from the sender before I removed the tank, is the single pipe the main feed to the car and the pipe with the second outlet attached to it the reserve and return pipe ? I know this has been asked millions of times but I cant remember. Also any tips on cleaning the inside of the tank as lots of surface rust/muck where it sat for long periods before I bought the car. Right enough yabbering on ;-)
Cheers Damian.












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So all old underseal removed and have now started on the inner rear wing metal repairs, the car had never been welded until I started the front inner wings, nice to see the original panels before the rust set in! So as per the pics I've started on the rear O/S inner wing, cutting, fabrication/welding as I go, trying to get it as near as possible to resemble a form of neatness, grinding back the welds then I'll use a very small amount of filler to go over the joints, undercoat & then lay on the UPOL stone chip, not factory finish but it'll be very presentable but importantly strong!








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Satisfying seeing fresh steel :thumb:
I don't envy the underseal scraping but respect the time put into that. The planets aligned and I was lucky enough to find a cheap media blasters at the time I had at least some disposable cash. Certainly wouldn't be able to do it right now lol


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More updates from the covid-19 resto rover work! Some shots of my garage work space and general dumping area of the interior.
I will eventually make more space down the driver's side of the car by moving the garage panel back about 2ft..ish to the edge of the concrete base/driveway, build matching timber side closing panels & add roof section, I did the same to the other side which you can see I gained about 2 ft extra width, I made/added the angle iron bracket to support the middle roof section & bolted to the timber upright beam fixed to the concrete wall, once the other side is extended I'll lay down some DPC and have new concrete poured level with area I've already laid and level with bottom timber frame.
So more welding work on the O/S inner rear wing, nearly there, next is to repair & refit the splash panels, weld on new sections of u-channel for the rubber wing to body seal. Also need to repair the upper lip where the boot seal sits as small area has rotted away. cheers for now.







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More update pics, started on the NSR inner wing, final part of the 'weldathon' , almost same repairs required as the other side!

I'll use a smear of filler on the boot lip/floor repairs to hide the welds. Some of them look quite ugly on the rear splash panel but the camera doesn't do them justice ;-) , the're strong & do the job. If I were building a £100k concors car then I'd buy new panels but its not so this is my best on my budget. I'll go round all the welds with a smear of filler prior to red oxide and Graxitex stone chip.











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Thanks Mr task, certainly wont let up, the wife is very understanding when it comes to garage time as I am when it comes to DIY time for her lists she sets me to do LOL.


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Thanks Phil, I wish mate :) well the welding will be, some surgery required on the same side rear door but that should be it....hopefully :)


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Thanks Mr task, certainly wont let up, the wife is very understanding when it comes to garage time as I am when it comes to DIY time for her lists she sets me to do LOL.
Similar here. I can do as much old car fixing as necessary. 'Mrs CB' can do as much old car driving as necessary.
Who has the best deal ? answers on a post card please .....