My latest toy.

SRF said:
I pumped out the fuel until it stopped. I pulled the reserve button but no more came out. So I assume either the tap is faulty or the outlet is bunged up
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It's likely the outlet is bunged up, it has a gauze cover on the little standpipe that would be susceptible to muck.
Be prepared for a wet arm/s when you drop the sender which contains the feed pipes as well, because if the bottom of the tank is full of crud, it will be a rather nasty sludge that comes out when you open it up.
 
SRF said:
the best position of axle stands is still puzzling. I have tried using metal bars in the jacking ports but it seems a bit precarious.
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That's the way it's supposed to be done, but the condition of the jacking points is the limiting factor and the bars you put in have to be the correct size which IIRC is 7/8" diameter.
 
unstable load said:
It's likely the outlet is bunged up, it has a gauze cover on the little standpipe that would be susceptible to muck.
Be prepared for a wet arm/s when you drop the sender which contains the feed pipes as well, because if the bottom of the tank is full of crud, it will be a rather nasty sludge that comes out when you open it up.
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I am more inclined to remove the tank to check and clean it properly. Having had a car on fire I am a bit cautious where petrol is concerned.
 
harveyp6 said:
That's the way it's supposed to be done, but the condition of the jacking points is the limiting factor and the bars you put in have to be the correct size which IIRC is 7/8" diameter.
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My mate has given me a pair of ramps so I can have a good look before I trust the jacking points.
 
Spent a couple of hours at the paint suppliers in Stockport. On my arrival a rep was showing off his latest paint scanner. He took my scuttle and a few seconds later gave the formula for the colour match. He then left, and the problems commenced. The first mixing looked ok to me but the owner was not satisfied. Several attempts later and after a visit to Nandos ,which was opposite, for a quick burger, I was advised to leave it and go back a couple of days later. I don't think the rep will be selling his new scanner any time soon.
Having wasted most of the day, I didn't get much time to work on the Rover. One job I did was to sort the tacho out. When I converted to electronic ignition the tacho stopped working. Luckily I have a spare RVC one which came with the car. I set to and took the dash out again. I mounted the replacement tacho. I run a new wire to the negative side of the coil and I made sure the case of the tacho was earthed. I was pleased to have a working tacho again.
 
Whilst on a roll I decided to have a look at the clock. I have 2 and neither work. I quick troll through the search section and you tube gave me enough info to have a go. I was surprised to find the same fault in both clocks. A little connection had come loose. I have a small battery soldering iron, which to be honest hasn't been of much use since I bought it. The fine point of this iron is ideal to get inside the clock. A couple of minutes later and I have 2 working clocks. luckily the clock is easy to remove from the dash, I just had to remove the cover and the 2 screws holding it in are easy to get at. The replacement clock went in and is ticking away steadily. Couple of nice clean jobs means it is getting time to to tackle the fuel sender in the petrol tank. I can't put it off any longer.
 
fixed my clock with a soldering iron and. dab of solder .now works well. fuel sender I had removed from tabs and cleaned 'gauze ' filter. as apart from soem rust all working replaced with a new sender. rubber seal and securing disc. slowly getting car into a reliable. runner.
 
classicalgreen said:
fixed my clock with a soldering iron and. dab of solder .now works well. fuel sender I had removed from tabs and cleaned 'gauze ' filter. as apart from soem rust all working replaced with a new sender. rubber seal and securing disc. slowly getting car into a reliable. runner.
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Looks like I am treading a well worn path, I have a new sender, seal and a spare locking ring. I don't have the special tool for the locking ring, I have managed with an old screwdriver in the past.
 
SRF said:
Looks like I am treading a well worn path, I have a new sender, seal and a spare locking ring. I don't have the special tool for the locking ring, I have managed with an old screwdriver in the past.
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I used a drift and a buggering stick to do mine, if my memory serves me correctly.
 
SRF said:
Looks like I am treading a well worn path, I have a new sender, seal and a spare locking ring. I don't have the special tool for the locking ring, I have managed with an old screwdriver in the past.
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I have just removed mine to adjust the float arm as it was not reading correctly, just give it a liberal spray of penetrating fluid, wait 5 minutes and you should be able to tap the locking ring round quire easily with a blunt screwdriver. Be prepared to get doused with the last dregs of fuel from the tank as you remove it.
 
I knew it would be a bar steward of a job and I wasn't disappointed.
The first surprise was to find one of the outlets from the tank sender was disconnected and was blanked off.
I suspect there is a problem with the reserve tap and this is the reason one feed has been blanked off.
The tank has a lot debris, so the first job is to clean this out. My new sender didn't come with new olives, so the next job is find some new ones or try and remove the ones from the old sender. Not something I like doing.
 
The local plumbers had 8mm olives which fit. I made a mistake by setting the olives too far up the pipes which makes screwing the pipes back on next to impossible. I will have to take the tank out again. One little trick I found was to use 2 mole grips attached to the jointing strip of the tank, this makes handling and positioning the tank easier. I might make a special spanner to tighten the nuts on the pipes. I might heat up and bend an old spanner and then grind the head down . I have done it before and makes an almost impossible job easier, I am handicapped by having fingers the size of sausages.
 
One other thing which is a concern is that when I bridged the 2 wires at the sender, the gauge still doesn't move. I had tested the old sender and it is faulty. So I might have a break in the cable from the gauge to the sender, or a faulty earth or even a faulty gauge. I have a spare and that is ok, so more testing to be done.
 
iwish said:
I have just removed mine to adjust the float arm as it was not reading correctly, just give it a liberal spray of penetrating fluid, wait 5 minutes and you should be able to tap the locking ring round quire easily with a blunt screwdriver. Be prepared to get doused with the last dregs of fuel from the tank as you remove it.
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be careful with petrol tanks and metal utensils, a brass drift ( no sparks) is a safer bet when tapping or trying to undo anything related to petrol fumes and fuel. Just a thought.
Peter
 
ButterFingers said:
be careful with petrol tanks and metal utensils, a brass drift ( no sparks) is a safer bet when tapping or trying to undo anything related to petrol fumes and fuel. Just a thought.
Peter
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I have a friend who welded an old tractor petrol tank. He woke up in next doors garden and ended up in hospital.
 
Job done. The wires to the tank sender were severed in the boot. Whether I had done it pulling the tank out I don’t know. I had to solder and apply shrink tube to them. The hardest thing was reconnecting the small return pipe, what a fiddle. Typical pattern part, I had to alter the tabs to make the sender fit properly.
 
One job done and I noticed the bellows on the de Dion tube is now leaking. I will remove the whole tube, it needs a good de rusting and painting. It has been painted but only where it can be seen!!!!
 
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