Engine upgrade

I use the NGK BPR6E plugs in my Landrover. This has a 9.35:1 compression SD1 block and 10 bolt heads with composite gaskets. The R designates a resistive plug which you wont need if you have no ECU's onboard .

So i guess the non resitive equivalent is the same without the R? I.e BP6E
 
I'm sure Ron posted them somewhere on here once because that's how I knew what to buy.... Can't for the life of me remember the number or brand even....
 
just make sure they are the long spark plugs. I know a guy who fitted sd1 heads to his p5 and it was running badly due to the short plugs he swapped over from the original heads.

I have refitted the bolts but not torqued down. some later gaskets have them blanked off. I have seen photos of other versions on this engine with a row of bolts on the inside to give effectively 6 bolts around a cylinder (2 being shared with adjacent cylinder). This never made it to the rover version but the outer row bolts is a personal choice, I have never had a problem either leaving them off or fitting un torqued.

Have you drilled hole in the block help oil drain back/on to the timing chain? It is in the David Hardcastle V8 manual. I have done this a few times, not sure home much benefit it is though but if the professionals do it I thought i had nothing to lose.

Colin
 
rockdemon wrote,...
I'm sure Ron posted them somewhere on here once because that's how I knew what to buy.... Can't for the life of me remember the number or brand even....
Click to expand...

Hi Rich,

The 9.35 : 1 SD1 engines ( P6B engine is 9.25 : 1 ) running twin SU carbs were fitted with Champion N12Y plugs, gapped at 30 thou.

Ron.
 
Thanks guys , I've just ordered 2 X set of n12y for a dolomite as it worked out about £9 cheaper , I guess they won't know they're in a V8 eh ? :D
Colin i've heard of the drilled hole in the front of the motor mod , Where do i drill it , and how big :?:
 
arthuy said:
Have you drilled hole in the block help oil drain back/on to the timing chain? It is in the David Hardcastle V8 manual. I have done this a few times, not sure home much benefit it is though but if the professionals do it I thought i had nothing to lose.

Colin
Click to expand...
I've got that book and I missed that completely!

Stina, I torqued the outer row of 'head bolts to about 20lbft, but they worked loose or settled down so I had to nip them up a bit more at the first oil change. They don't need to be as tight as the main ones though, the theory being that it can lift the heads slightly on the lifter gallery side.

Speaking of which, you know the trick with the cardboard tube cut in half to catch the lifters once the cam is out?
 
Thanks guys .
Leaning towards fitting them loose maybe 10-20 lb/ft and thread locking them in .
Paul , i remember something about the roll of wrapping paper center trick for the lifters , ended up re reading Stan Vaultsmans top end thread again , some useful info , good to read it before getting stuck into mine .
I will end up with a spec close to yours so out of interest what needles did you end up with ? Although i don't know what carb type you have . :?
 
I've got BAC needles fitted to my HS6 carbs with standard airfilters. Rockdemon's SU needle computer widget said 'Suggests BCG, and BCA (both being lean at high registers!) but BAC isnt a million miles away...'
 
The holes are quite small 10mm I think, drilled a downward slope to allow oil to run on to the chain.

If you look at the engine with the timing gears off it looks like mickey mouse.

This article has a few pics

OilFeederHoles.jpg

http://www.gomog.com/articles/timingchain.html




you can maybe just see the holes above the ears.
 
That's interesting . I can decide on that one when i get in there and see if the chain looks dry , easy to do when it's in bits , and like the article says , i can't see what harm it could do even if it didn't work . Those holes look smaller than 10mm though :?: Would like to know what they are before wielding the drill :?
 
About 7mm should be OK , I would think

If you're leaving head bolts only loosely tightened , a bit of Loctite on the threads should stop them coming loose(r)
 
rockdemon said:
From what I understand rather than messing too much with the engine, stina might get more bang per Buck from a zf autobox?
Click to expand...

Everything going well, I should be able to answer that question soon.
 
Just thinking aloud with respect of the two holes drilled into the front of the lifter gallery. As the block has a negative gradient (it slopes down at the transmission end), the natural direction for the oil to flow as it drains back from the lifter gallery is away from the front.

If oil does on occasions migrate through the holes drilled, how does it cross the gap between the block where it is running, and the chain?

Ron.
 
I have wondered about that Ron , but far cleverier people than me have thought it worth while . I don't suppose it's an exact science , I suppose it relies on oil getting thrown off the cam and crank shaft . ( We all know how far oil will spread from a leak ) The high volume pump must help overcome the rearward tilt of the motor in the P6 , although it's not a P6 specific mod . Or maybe it only comes into effect when you stamp on the brakes ! :LOL:
 
Hi Stina,

The timing chain along with the distributor skew gears receive their oil delivery via the front camshaft bearing.

Ron.
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Hi Stina,

The timing chain along with the distributor skew gears receive their oil delivery via the front camshaft bearing.

Ron.
Click to expand...

:? I know Ron , but i was answering your question on the benefit , or otherwise of the modification to the oil system , and how that could work .
 
I think that the oil does run down and pool in this location. If you even have to clean one you find a load of gunk which is sort of soft and squishy.

If you prime the oil pump with the rocker covers and the valley gasket off you will see where the oils flows. The valley has the curves of the cylinders and webbing which stop oil running straight down the back of the block.

The rotation of the gears and chain may provide a draw into the timing cover.

When you read up on it they describe it as drain back.
 
arthuy said:
If you even have to clean one you find a load of gunk which is sort of soft and squishy.
Click to expand...

Having spent several hours and expended lots of elbow grease doing just that I can confirm what Colin says :roll:

Dave
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top