Vern Klukas
Active Member
Phil Robson said:
The tie bar was introduced very early, March 1966. Is your car that early? The gearbox would be under serial 40139331E.
Yours
Vern
Clutch travel on 2000
- Thread starter Phil Robson
- Start date
The tie bar was introduced very early, March 1966. Is your car that early? The gearbox would be under serial 40139331E.
Yours
Vern
Vern Klukas
Active Member
harveyp6 said:
Indeed. Various road tests of the era mention the vague gearshift. Considering that most road tests were essentially advertising it must of been a significant issue for Rover.
Yours
Vern
partviking
Member
....and then the improvement was then replaced by another improvement! :roll: :roll:
The original gear change wasn't perfect but I think Rover, quite rightly, felt it could be better. Not sure the bar did much to help but no doubt the 'all in one' bolted to the top of the box did improve things considerably.
25 years ago I had a the misfortune (or perhaps stupidity) to own a Talbot Horizon, undoubtedly the King of vague gearchanges, my 2000's is a dream by comparison.
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Well, I've actually looked in my '63 Workshop manual, rather than my tatty garage Haynes copy :roll:
No hole for a tie bar & no tie bar in the diagram! However, mine has the later type plate, presumably because the box was refurbished by Rover - it's probably a later box altogether. I can't find any serial numbers on it.
This now begs the question; have I got the correct clutch plate in? I purchased a plate from the USA & it's specified as a '63 - '73 plate, which probably doesn't tell me much.
The other thing is that I've now measured the gear lever position in reverse (like I should have done in the first place
) & it looks like it's correct. It must be the clutch rather than the gear change that's at fault.
No hole for a tie bar & no tie bar in the diagram! However, mine has the later type plate, presumably because the box was refurbished by Rover - it's probably a later box altogether. I can't find any serial numbers on it.
This now begs the question; have I got the correct clutch plate in? I purchased a plate from the USA & it's specified as a '63 - '73 plate, which probably doesn't tell me much.
The other thing is that I've now measured the gear lever position in reverse (like I should have done in the first place
) & it looks like it's correct. It must be the clutch rather than the gear change that's at fault.Attachments
Phil Robson said:
AFAIK all the centre plates are the same, it's the pressure plate and release bearing sleeve that are different. 63- 73 means nothing because the car was introduced in 63, when it had the early type, and ceased production in 73, when it had the later type. Have you got any pics of the release bearing sleeve and the pressure plate that you used? If not can you remember what they were like?
Vern Klukas
Active Member
harveyp6 said:
I'm quite certain the centre plates are common. They did change details, like the friction material and such, but that's more different suppliers, improved materials etc than a dimensional change.
Yours
Vern
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Early type pressure plate.
Which has to be used with this type of release sleeve.
Later type pressure plate.
As you can see, no pad on the fingers, has to be used with a sleeve with a rounded front, not the flat fronted sleeve above.
You have to get the correct pairing.
Which has to be used with this type of release sleeve.
Later type pressure plate.
As you can see, no pad on the fingers, has to be used with a sleeve with a rounded front, not the flat fronted sleeve above.
You have to get the correct pairing.
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Many thanks Harvey for persevering with a novice like me .
I'm not famous for a good memory & from my records I got the clutch fitted over 3 years ago. However I am over 99% certain that the pressure plate had a pad on it. I seem to remember that I thought it looked unusual at the time. The sleeve to my knowledge wasn't like that one though :| .
I would have thought that the sleeve with the flat front would be for the non - pad variety though, so that the shoulder pressed against the finger ends. But then I probably don't understand it properly...
.I'm not famous for a good memory & from my records I got the clutch fitted over 3 years ago. However I am over 99% certain that the pressure plate had a pad on it. I seem to remember that I thought it looked unusual at the time. The sleeve to my knowledge wasn't like that one though :| .
I would have thought that the sleeve with the flat front would be for the non - pad variety though, so that the shoulder pressed against the finger ends. But then I probably don't understand it properly...
I've never had reason to try, but would it be possible to get a look through the hole in the bellhousing where the clutch lever is to see if you can make out what's in there? How about one of those borescopes? With the starter removed you'd get a good view with one of those. If not, lots of cars with inertia starters ended up with holes cut in the bottom of the bellhousing to get the bits out when the bendix broke, not that I would ever suggest stooping so low as to use a hole cutter in the bottom of the bellhousing to get a proper look and then using a sill jacking hole bung to fill the hole and make it look nice and tidy, just as though it came from the factory like it.....
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking I might 'just' take the gearbox off again. I've got to take the exhaust off anyway & I should be able to do it with the engine in situ.
Vern Klukas
Active Member
Phil Robson said:Many thanks Harvey for persevering with a novice like me
I'm not famous for a good memory & from my records I got the clutch fitted over 3 years ago. However I am over 99% certain that the pressure plate had a pad on it. I seem to remember that I thought it looked unusual at the time. The sleeve to my knowledge wasn't like that one though :| .
I would have thought that the sleeve with the flat front would be for the non - pad variety though, so that the shoulder pressed against the finger ends. But then I probably don't understand it properly...
Both sleeves are flat, but the late one has a thicker flange and they put quite a large radius on it. That is what Harvey is talking about, there is still a large flat surface on the sleeve.
Yours
Vern
Vern Klukas
Active Member
harveyp6 said:
If you can borrow of those video cameras on a flexible stalk for looking inside things, you can maybe sneak the head past the flywheel through the timing hole and get a look.
Yours
Vern
Vern Klukas
Active Member
harveyp6 said:If not, lots of cars with inertia starters ended up with holes cut in the bottom of the bellhousing to get the bits out when the bendix broke, not that I would ever suggest stooping so low as to use a hole cutter in the bottom of the bellhousing to get a proper look and then using a sill jacking hole bung to fill the hole and make it look nice and tidy, just as though it came from the factory like it.....
Great minds think alike. I'd cut a hole just the right size to use one of the nylon plugs that blank off the big holes in the engine back plate. Looked very factory as long as you ignored the all the nicks and dents inside the bell housing from the pinion, nut and spring flying about.
Yours
Vern
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
I'm ready to take the gearbox off again, but have just had a chance comment from an experienced mechanic who thinks the clutch may just be stuck on.
It has been around 3 years since I put everything back together & they think it is quite possible :? .
It has been around 3 years since I put everything back together & they think it is quite possible :? .
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
It does indeed lunge forward on the starter with the clutch pedal depressed.