BW65 oil level

stina

stina

New Member
HI Harvey if your out there !
I have read your thread on fluid check on 35/65 . My dip stick (65 box) only has a level mark that says " check cold " . If i follow your warm up and running through the ratios advice then check the level is this the mark to top it up to ? Want to check it after shopping run ( about 4 miles ) .
Cheers in advance
stina
 
If there isn't a HOT level marker on the other side of the stick then you just have to work with the mark you have. Normally you have a minimum and maximum level marks as well, and the maximum COLD level is normally in line with the minimum HOT level on the other side of the stick. The distance between the min and max is normally about 1/2". You could go through the procedure with it COLD, set the level, then go for your run and check it when you return. The level should then be above the line, but by no more than about 1/2". Personally I'd set it HOT, and to a maximum of 1/2" above the COLD line if that's the only mark there is. ISTR the 65 boxes having two marks either side of the stick, and it was up to you to work out which was which. Jags have a fully detailed dipstick with min and max, and hot and cold levels. Chances are you're going to have difficulty getting a nice clear reading anyway, but we'll cross that bridge should the need occur.
These discrepancies arise because car manufacturers alter the level checking procedure from what Borg Warner used to recommmend for whatever reason.
 
Hi Harvey .
Thanks for that . They're is only the " check cold " mark on the stick . I went through the priming procedure in tesco car park while it was warm . I added about 1/4 liter which bought it up to just above the mark ( engine running ) . It changes smoothly as it has in my short ownership . It seems to change up quite quick if you back off the throttle , but when you slow for speed humps ect it does change down a gear when you accelerate away . I'm pretty sure it wouldn't before i sorted throttle linkage . Normal accelerating with a steady throttle it will change up at about 2000 rpm , if you back off while it's in second it changes into top . Not been anywhere to floor it in top to see if it changes down . Sorry if all a bit garbled , just trying to give all info while it's in my head . Will check level hot and cold over next few days and report back .
Cheers stina
 
Keep an eye on the level for a while, it will let you know if there are any problems and you'll get used to being able to get a good clear reading. It all sounds as though it's working as it should be from what you've said. You may decide that you want to adjust the cable once you know exactly what it's doing, but from the sounds of it that would only be a bit of minor tweaking.
 
Cheers Harvey .
I'll monitor it for a couple of weeks ( don't use it much ) and post back when i know more .
stina
 
Hi Harvey
Been keeping an eye on the transmission for a couple of weeks . Done a hundred miles or so . It still operates as i described previously . Still not sure if the kick down operates when you boot it because i haven't really pushed it that hard . It does change back down when you accelerate after speed humps ect . It does however go into reverse with quite a clonk when it's up to temp . Goes into D smooth . Changes smooth hot or cold . Anything i should be looking at or worrying about ?
Cheers stina
Ps did have a look underneath last week , nothing loose broken or hanging off . Bell housing bolts all o.k ect
 
The only way to know if it kicks down is to try it. Lifting off the throttle always prompts the upchange so that's no problem. Harsh engagement of REVERSE only could be the pressures too high. This would give harsh engagement of DRIVE as well on a 35 box, which makes it a little easier to know, but the 65 has "anti-bump" on the front clutch to soften the engagement of DRIVE which means that too high pressures can be only noticeable on REVERSE. TBH I'd see if it does what it should, (ie kickdown, engagement, shift speeds) and then use it. If it develops problems then sort it at the time. Only sort things now if they are a problem, and you really need to give it a bit of use to see what it's actually doing. (Or not doing.)
 
Hello Stina,

In my later workshop manual, it states the following in relation to the BW65 oil level.

"run the engine at idle speed for a few minutes, selecting each gear position for a short period to distribute the fluid through the gearbox. Stop the engine. Check, and if necessary top up the fluid to the dipstick level mark" The adjacent diagram shows the level mark as the "check cold" mark.

The dipstick illustrated like yours only has the "check cold" mark.

I would assume given it says "check cold" that the above refers to starting the engine from cold and then following the procedure as outlined.

Ron.
 
Hi guys
Did the shopping run today and tried to take notice of what it's up to . As i've said before it changes smooth , and changes down when it needs to .Still a bit harsh when engaging reverse . Tried the kick down ( foot to the floor at about 40 mph ) no kick down . You may remember all linkage bushes replaced and adjusted with recent engine work . Any ideas ?
Cheers stina
 
When you plant your foot all the way to the floor on the throttle you should feel a notch as there is a button on the floor under the pedal that gives a positive bump at the point at which the kickdown should work. If you're not feeling this then you're not pushing the pedal far enough (carpets/mats jammed underneath?) so try doing it again without the engine running. If you are feeling it then the linkage/cable isn't set up correctly.
 
Hi Harvey
Yeah can feel and hear the button click . So linkage or cable then . Am reasonably confident i adjusted all the slack out of the linkage with new bushes and adjustment during recent engine work , and that peddle to the metal equals both butterflies fully open . So kick down cable then ?
Cheers stina
 
If the pedal has full travel, and that gives full throttle at the carbs then providing there's no lost motion you're only left with cable adjustment. What I would do is hold the pedal flat out, then pull the inner cable upwards to see if you can feel the "bump" which is the cam moving the valve to give kickdown. If you can feel that with the throttle fully open it means the cable needs adjusting to get the kickdown to happen earlier. (ie adjusting the outer cable downwards.) but remember that doing this will increase the harshness of engagement, particularly when selecting REVERSE. If that turns out to be the case then look for play in the driveline, and try to lower the idle speed.
 
Hi Harvey
As always thanks for the advice . Will think about best plan of action for a few days , Will double check throttle linkage over weekend . Also cable , i think it's as you describe , ie on full throttle when you pull the cable you can feel the resistance of the cam just before it operates . From memory , their is not much left to adjust down . Will have a good look now i know what you mean . If i adjust it down am i right in thinking i cant adjust it back up again ? As in i can raise the pressure but not lower it ? Also how much to adjust it at a time ? Will for example a turn make a difference ? Don't want to rush in and get it wrong !
Cheers stina
 
stina said:
Hi Harvey
If i adjust it down am i right in thinking i cant adjust it back up again ? As in i can raise the pressure but not lower it ? Cheers stina
Click to expand...

No, everything is reversable if you go too far, and running with incorrect pressures really only becomes a problem if you do it for too long, so check all the linkage again and then try adjusting the cable. You want to get it to a point where the pressures are high enough that the kickdown works, but not so high that in normal hard accelleration you actually need to lift off the throttle to get it to change up. Just make a note of your starting point, then go a turn at a time, and should you need to you can always get back to the point at which you started.
 
Hi Harvey
After having the carbs set up recently i had another look at the linkage and took some slack out of the virticle link on the end of the accelerator cross shaft . I also wound the cable up one turn to lower the pressure . On a run today i put peddle to metal and she kicked down , a few more times and it works every time which is great , it's never worked in my ownership . My next question . When selecting reverse i get quote a thump as it engages , i have montioned this before . It's only since doing the heads and re building the linkage , and it only happens when the transmission is hot . When it's cold it engages smooth . This make doubt something loose or worn in the drive line . Could it be to do with the pressure , and need a bit more tweaking ? Can i lower the pressure more without loosing the kick down . It's great to have it working and the box is lovely in all other respects .
Your thoughts and advice would be appreciated .
Cheers stina
 
If it only thumps into REVERSE when it's hot, then, with the proviso that the idle speed isn't too fast, then you would be reasonably safe in saying it wasnt a driveline problem. That said it's always worth checking. You can reduce the pressures still further to try to reduce the thump (incidently, is there a thump on slowing down on a closed throttle when it downshifts 2-1?), and you can do that in gradual amounts as you test drive, checking the shift speeds as you go, and making sure the kickdown still works.
 
Just in addition to the above, it's well worth checking the driveline, because although you'd expect harsh engagement of both FORWARD and REVERSE if there were any play there, this is a 65 box, so as I mentioned before has the anti-bump to soften the engagement of DRIVE, meaning you're less likely to notice it if there is any play there.
 
Hi Harvey
No , no clonks or noises on the over run or change down . You can feel it change down but it;s smooth . I will lower the pressure in stages checking that i still have kick down . Thanks for that it was kind of what i wanted to hear . Will report back with results in a few days .
Cheers stina
Just spotted your update and i will check above . But would it not thump when it's cold if a drive line issue ?
 
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