Autobox problems after long sleep..

Well that's probably your answer because effectively that will be acting as a "gear hold" which prevents it from changing up into top.

Regards Colin
 
What you should have done was cut the crimp off the cable while the sump was off, then you can set the cable correctly by backing it off until the heel of the cam is just touching the throttle valve. Then refit the sump, set the fluid level and do the last final adjustments to get the shift speeds perfect on a roadtest.

If you haven't got top, but have got normal reverse, and the shift speed 1-2 is OK that rules out the governor being stuck, so all you're really left with is the 2-3 shift valve sticking. Front clutch is Ok cos you have 1st, front band is OK cos you have second, and rear clutch and rear band are OK cos you have reverse, so it doesn't leave a lot else for it to be.

I'll give it a bit more thought, but without driving it, if the symptoms as you see them are right I can't think of much else offhand.
 
When I bought my V8 it had stood for a few years and it needed plenty of revs to go up even a slight rise, but revers was OK. A mate told me that sometimes the pistons for the brake bands will stick because of rust from lack of lubrication due to standing and afull strip and rebuild was advised.
That was the perfect excuse to ditch the Auto and fit a manual.... :roll:
 
Just out of curiosity what should the engine RPM be at 60MPH? I have temporarily fitted a rev counter this morning and its doing 2750 RPM at 60 MPH. I let an "aged" friend of mine have a go in it at the weekend and he said he thought it was changing into top gear but I remain unconvinced although I seem to remember when I had Escorts, Marinas and Allegros etc years ago 3000 RPM at 60MPH was normal. :?
 
It's in top mate! Mine, when I kick it down, which I try not to do too much, would be really revving and a little annoyed at me, at 60 in 2nd.
 
This is the problem with the BW(and with the manual boxes) - undergeared for modern conditions. Those who like manuals fit the LT77/R380 five speed which has an overdrive top. For those of us who want to stick with auto's the ZF HP22 / HP24 4 spd has the same ratios as the BW for 1 to 3 plus an overdrive 4th of the same ratio as the LT77. It has lock up on 3rd and 4th as well so is much more suitable for modern conditions. It is used in the Range Rover P38 and Discovery, so no problem with getting a bell housing, drive plate etc to suit the V8 and is used in 2WD form in the Jag XJ40 and LDV Sherpa Police Wagon. Installation is straightforward but there are some issues with the change lever - best to use a Jag one and accept a slightly different tunnel finisher appearance.

Chris
 
Regrettably the 4 cylinder is a bit of a problem for alternative gearboxes be they auto or manual. Since it was only ever used in the P6 and died at the end of P6 production there are no ready made bellhousings to suit alternative boxes. As with everything in engineering, if you're determined enough anything is possible, but it certainly won't be straightforward.

If you were to replace the Rover 4 by an O series (the closest in spirit and used in the SD1 2000) or M16/T16 then the field opens up care of their use in LDV vans in RWD configuration.

Chris
 
What about fitting the 3500 diff to a 4cyl car to benefit from the longer final drive?
Perhaps single carb models will become even slower, but maybe the TC has enough torque to bridge the larger gap between the intermediate gears.
Any experience on this?

Demetris
 
That will certainly work physically on the 2200 which has the 3500 style rear end. I'm not sure how the earlier 2000 style rear end without the flexible mounted cross member would affect things. I'm not sure either whether the 2000 would cope with the higher effective first gear, the rest ought to be OK though. A simple enough swop to be worth trying as an experiment though. I'd take an educated guess you could cope with the resulting speedo error by fitting a 3500 speedo head.

Chris
 
I would be tempted to try, but i am afraid that the nearest 3500 diff is a few thousant miles away from me :(

I find the 2000 's bottom gear way too low. The car will start on very steep hills with just a few revs above engine idle speed. I' ve never managed to stall it.
It is the top gear acceleration that worries me.
I also agree that a 3500 speedo head unti will sort out any inaccuracy.

Demetris
 
chrisyork said:
Regrettably the 4 cylinder is a bit of a problem for alternative gearboxes be they auto or manual. Since it was only ever used in the P6 and died at the end of P6 production there are no ready made bellhousings to suit alternative boxes. As with everything in engineering, if you're determined enough anything is possible, but it certainly won't be straightforward.

If you were to replace the Rover 4 by an O series (the closest in spirit and used in the SD1 2000) or M16/T16 then the field opens up care of their use in LDV vans in RWD configuration.

Chris
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I saw the auto back plate to an SD1 2000 engine for sale on eBay and noticed that it looked very much like the one on the back of the Rover unit. It did make me think if it could be re drilled for the bolt holes on the P6 block.

This is all very hypothetical as I live on the Isle of Wight and so most of the time the "Soup Dragon" is at most doing 60, if there is not an old biddy in front of me. :) This Island suits her very well.
 
Demetris said:
Perhaps single carb models will become even slower.
Demetris
Click to expand...

I have to stick up for my old girl here :wink: She's not that slow and easily pulls away at the lights faster than most if I let her. (of cause they could beat me if they wanted to) she's no slouch. Although fitting the 3500 diff maybe too much which is why an auto box with the same first three ratios as the BW35 and an extra longer fourth would be ace, although I don't think I would mess about with her box unless I was really stuck.
 
How can I tell if my car has an early type BW35 in it?its an early 1972 series 2 car but I cant remember if its suffix A or B, the plate below the gear shifter has P,R,N,D,2,1 on it but I am wondering if it has been changed (as its loose) and should actually be P,R,N,D2,D1,L.
If it has got an early gearbox that would explain why I only have 2 gears when D is selected. I dont think I tried pulling away in D1 (or "2") so I dont really know if it was using all 3 gears plus its as flat as a pancake here so it probably wouldnt hold bottom gear for long anyway.
Cant try it at the moment as the exhaust manifold is in 3 pieces!
 
Dead easy once you're up & running again take it up the road if it's the right box for the plate on the floor 1 will hold 1st 2 will only change up into 2nd & 3 should give you all 3 gears if it's the early box which it shouldn't be on that late a car L will just hold in 1st then the position marked 2 on your car should act as a 3 speed & position 3 should only use 2nd & 3rd.

Hope this makes sense
Colin
 
2Diesels said:
Dead easy once you're up & running again take it up the road if it's the right box for the plate on the floor 1 will hold 1st 2 will only change up into 2nd & 3 should give you all 3 gears if it's the early box which it shouldn't be on that late a car L will just hold in 1st then the position marked 2 on your car should act as a 3 speed & position 3 should only use 2nd & 3rd.

Hope this makes sense
Colin
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As far as I remember that's not correct I'm afraid.

If you have the later PRND21 box, if you put it in 1and pull away it stays there, if you put it in 2 and pull away it pulls away in 2 and stays there (it doesn't shunt between 2 and 1) and D is fully auto.

With the early box pulling away in L means it stays in low, pull away in D1 is fully auto, pulling away in D2 means you pull away in 2 and then it will change into top (and back as required) When in either 2nd or 1st moving the lever into L locks it in whatever gear it was previously in.

Having the wrong box (PRND2D1L) and the later selector plate (PRND21) will give you the problem you have, and to cure it you will need to substitute the later range control valve assembly for the early one that's in there. (Or get used to driving with the early selector pattern, which is not as user friendly.)
 
harveyp6 said:
As far as I remember that's not correct I'm afraid.

If you have the later PRND21 box, if you put it in 1and pull away it stays there, if you put it in 2 and pull away it pulls away in 2 and stays there (it doesn't shunt between 2 and 1) and D is fully auto
Click to expand...

Agggghhh! shot down in flames again :oops:

You could be right there to be honest Harvey I've never had the later type in a P6 just going off experience with other makes of car with similar boxes.
harveyp6 said:
With the early box pulling away in L means it stays in low, pull away in D1 is fully auto, pulling away in D2 means you pull away in 2 and then it will change into top (and back as required)
Click to expand...
Isn't that what I said? Well if I didn't it's what I meant :roll:

Never mind I'm only Huming :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Regards Col
 
Well, if you take 35 boxes other than those fitted to Rovers you are right, but what you said regarding pulling away in "2" and it will change up only as far as second, is not true for the Rover box. (Although it is for all other cars.) Rover on the other hand, does exactly what it says on the selector (PRND21) 1= first gear, 2= second gear(and nothing else) D= full auto.
 
Hmmm, I am now 90% certain its got an early gearbox in it as it was definately not staying in one gear when 2 was selected and it was definately only using 2 gears in "D" and that would also explain why it struggled to pull up the incline out of my driveway in "D" but is ok in reverse.

I have only ever had 2 automatic cars in the past and I assumed the P6 auto would be the same :oops:
 
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