An even Redder Red Rover

Adam Birch said:
What about richelieu?
Doesn't float my boat, I'm afraid. Desmoduke of this parish has a Richlieu 2200 TC and lives in Southport (about 12 miles from me), which is in beautiful condition. It's a lovely colour, it really is, but it just doesn't do it for me. I want to retain that 'racing red' character that mine has. Bright, brash and sporty.
Richlieu is much more refined and understated, which just isn't for me.
 
redrover said:
KiwiRover said:
Thanks John (unstableload) that's quite useful information. I'm going to go in and speak to the painter properly. From chatting on the phone, it sounds like they have a fair idea of what they're talking about. I don't want a concours paint job, I want a quality, durable and low-maintenance finish. So I want to get a feel for that before deciding how to attack the project.
I am strictly amateur when it comes to painting, but the bloke that taught me the little bit that stuck has been painting planes here, http://www.cossaviation.com/for the last few years now.
 
Targa Red from the later Rover SD1's is a nice vibrant shade of red if you don't mind opting for a non-P6 specific colour... :wink:
 
grifterkid said:
Targa Red from the later Rover SD1's is a nice vibrant shade of red if you don't mind opting for a non-P6 specific colour... :wink:
Would really need to see it in the flesh, as the pictures never give a true reflection, but it can go on the consideration list. In all likelihood will do it Brigade, which is also inkeeping with the likely build date of my car. But still open to ideas.

I basically want to replicate this sort of cherryish colour. Monza never looks like that in bright sunlight, it's too orangey, but Brigade does seem fairly close.

216643_177455768968420_8291665_n.jpg
 
Base and clear 2k can look a bit plasticky and false on old cars!
Granted you get a nice wet look shine,but for an excellent shine and real depth of finish like cellulose,I always have my cars painted in solid 2k then flat and polished,making sure I have plenty of paint left over for any repairs that arise.
The rover is currently in for a lower rear n/s door paint due to a small crease I put in it, :oops: courtesy of the morris 1000 front bumper, :roll: ,and at last,the brown on the wing bottoms!
I made sure I had at least 3lt of spare paint after it was done!
 
Pilkie said:
Base and clear 2k can look a bit plasticky and false on old cars!
Granted you get a nice wet look shine,but for an excellent shine and real depth of finish like cellulose,I always have my cars painted in solid 2k then flat and polished,making sure I have plenty of paint left over for any repairs that arise.

Thanks Dave. I think I need to get out and see as many different paint jobs as possible before making my mind up. To be honest, my primary motivation is get something that is very hard wearing, minimal maintenance, and comes up a treat with a pressure jet. I imagine the depth of the gloss shine is controlled by the number of clear coats that go on?
Pity it's not show season, I need to get up close and personal with a few panels methinks.

Pilkie said:
The rover is currently in for a lower rear n/s door paint due to a small crease I put in it, :oops: courtesy of the morris 1000 front bumper, :roll: ,and at last,the brown on the wing bottoms!
I made sure I had at least 3lt of spare paint after it was done!

Oh dear! Bad news about the Moggie bumper altercation, but small added bonus with the wing bottoms for you :D

Michael
 
Its all being done for free,as the wing bottoms we never got round to,and the 1/2 door lower panel is a quick job.
Depth of shine is in the layers of paint not laquer,more laquer gives it a harder wearing and wetter shine look.
At the end of the day its all down to to meticulous pre paint prep,etch prime,epoxy prime,type of and thickness of filler used etc,,and imho its best if you can present your chosen panels in bare metal to the painter,then let him do the rest!
I green nitromorse mine,before sending to the painter.
You may remember this piccy of the TR6's panel prep I did!!
 
redrover said:
Richlieu is much more refined and understated, which just isn't for me.

Now you've made that comment, Michael...I realise I made completely the wrong choice for Occie.

Refined and understated I ain't! :mrgreen:



Good luck with your project...Base and clearcoat gets my vote as well.

Stan
 
Get one litre more paint than whatever amount your paint guy tells you he'll need! Ask him to line up the wings and doors on his panel stands (whatever they're called!) so that a whole side, i.e. a front wing, front door, rear door and rear wing can be painted at the same time. Don't ask me how I came by this sage advice. Just don't pass any unkind remarks if you see my 'harlequin' admiralty blue car parked in the bright sunlight one day. :cry:
I like that red car with the SD1 Vanden Plas wheels and US-style front number plate.
How about 'Rosso Corsa', the Ferrari red, also used on Cinelli bicycles? 7 litres of whatever shade you choose, better to have a can sit around unopened and go off over time, than a second batch, I say. Be lucky, look forward to seeing it on here when done.
 
Pilkie said:
Base and clear 2k can look a bit plasticky and false on old cars!

100% agree.
Brilliantly hard wearing but sometimes just has that "jammy" look that old cars never had.
The "jam" effect can be somewhat mitigated with spot on prep and meticulous flatting back...but that is time and $$$$
In the end its a cost/benefit analysis...I can understand the 2k base/clear thinking what with the grime and salt you blokes have to deal with though.
I'm currently in the process of painting mine and it is certainly a time consuming job...will easily take the 12 months i have allocated to it.
 
Thanks for all the comments. I'm going in to speak to them on Friday about it.

Pilkie said:
At the end of the day its all down to to meticulous pre paint prep,etch prime,epoxy prime,type of and thickness of filler used etc,,and imho its best if you can present your chosen panels in bare metal to the painter,then let him do the rest!
I green nitromorse mine,before sending to the painter.
You may remember this piccy of the TR6's panel prep I did!!

I'll be doing as much of the the prep myself as I can, like Pilkie did. Amazing how the paint just pours off the panel like that!

vaultsman said:
redrover said:
Richlieu is much more refined and understated, which just isn't for me.

Now you've made that comment, Michael...I realise I made completely the wrong choice for Occie.
Refined and understated I ain't! :mrgreen:

Good luck with your project...Base and clearcoat gets my vote as well.

Stan, I always thought Occie was a colour of your own mixing? DesmoDuke in Southport has a Richelieu 2200 TC, and it doesn't look like yours. Much more pinky/purple. Yours looks gorgeous. Love that deep crimson colour, but it's definitely racing red for me!

mrtask said:
Ask him to line up the wings and doors on his panel stands (whatever they're called!) so that a whole side, i.e. a front wing, front door, rear door and rear wing can be painted at the same time. Don't ask me how I came by this sage advice. Just don't pass any unkind remarks if you see my 'harlequin' admiralty blue car parked in the bright sunlight one day. :cry:
Oh dear....! :| That is a concern. Sounds like getting a complete side done is a better move. My initial thoughts were to have it done in 3 batches - front quarter, rear quarter and doors.

Also sounds like base coat clear coat is the way to go. I can understand what people mean about the 'jammy'/'plasticky'/false look that it gives, but mine is all about usability and low maintenance, as you know. It's a daily driver at the end of the day. Found this listing of a car that's quite obviously been clear coated. Wouldn't go for that exact colour (seems slightly metallic to me) but the finish is pretty well what I'm aiming for. No disrespect to those who want to polish celly - it's an original and far more 'real' representation of the car, and I tip my hat to you. But it's not for January gritted motorways, which is where I spent a fair bit of time....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-p6-2200sc-/261408197109
$_12.JPG


Will let you all know what the Painters say at the weekend...
Cheers
 
Haha! Brilliant. And the right colour too!

I've managed to secure a gearbox actually. Very low mileage (23k) verified, one owner from new, driven by a saint. It came out of car that was the retirement present for the Solihull plant doctor in 1973, and he owned it until a few years ago. The car now has a Ford Type 9 in it, so the gearbox is all mine! :D
 
redrover said:
vaultsman said:
redrover said:
Richlieu is much more refined and understated, which just isn't for me.

Now you've made that comment, Michael...I realise I made completely the wrong choice for Occie.
Refined and understated I ain't! :mrgreen:

Good luck with your project...Base and clearcoat gets my vote as well.

Stan, I always thought Occie was a colour of your own mixing? DesmoDuke in Southport has a Richelieu 2200 TC, and it doesn't look like yours. Much more pinky/purple. Yours looks gorgeous. Love that deep crimson colour, but it's definitely racing red for me!

You're right in that Occie's colour is listed as BS Crimson which, when I had a Richeleu chip in my hand at the paint factors, looked damned close. That said, I've never had the car parked up next to a true factory-painted Richelieu..so my eyesight could have been wrong. Wouldn't be the first time!

But again, I wouldn't change the shade Occie is now...it was just what I wanted at the time, and it still cuts it for me.

Cheers for now,
 
Occie's a beaut, she really is.
As you say, you'd have to put them side by side to compare with a factory Richelieu, but I was just struck by how much I preferred your colour over the Richelieus I'd seen. I think it first properly registered with me in the flesh at Petworth the other year, and was surprised that it's that lovely russet/crimson colour.

Did you bare-metal yours? And is it 2k? With a clear coat?
 
redrover said:
Occie's a beaut, she really is.
As you say, you'd have to put them side by side to compare with a factory Richelieu, but I was just struck by how much I preferred your colour over the Richelieus I'd seen. I think it first properly registered with me in the flesh at Petworth the other year, and was surprised that it's that lovely russet/crimson colour.

Did you bare-metal yours? And is it 2k? With a clear coat?

Thanks Michael.

No, I didn't bare-metal and yes, it's 2K.

Here's the thread...and I'm amazed how long ago this was. Tempus Fugit, etc....

http://www.classicroverforum.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6840
 
Right, I've been down to the painters today and the long and the short of it is they can do the standard of work I want at the price I want. :D

The painter's eyes near fell out of his head when he saw the car. He looked at me with wild eyes and I half expected him to say "is this thing a car is it mate?". I had to battle through the usual 'Aren't they interested/Aren't they paying attention/or are they just naturally like that' conversation vacuum that you get with everyone in the motor trade under the age of 40 (or is that just Liverpool??), but when I explained that I'd be supplying the panels in bare metal in three batches, and the only thing I needed him to worry about was putting etch prime, high build primer, 4x coats of red and 3x clear coats (which I'd also be supplying as well) on every panel, he brightened up and seemed fine about the whole thing.

I got a lot more mileage out of the shop owner and panel beater, who were both into their 50s. The place specialises in insurance standard body repairs, but the panel beater has a 30 year long career building and prepping every classic you care to name for concours standard resprays, the bulk of which were exported to monied clients in Japan in the 80s. The pair of them went over the car and pointed out every ding and sub-surface blister of rust they could find, which they advised against repairing if good rust-free panels are available. So I'm now in no doubt as to which panels need replacing - pretty well all of them!

Pricewise, it sits midway between my upper and lower limits. The bonnet, roof, doors, etc would be in the guestimated region of £120 each to finish to the standard outlined above, with less for the smaller panels. Apparently (so says the panel beater) the painter is a relentless perfectionist which can drive them up the wall! That's a quality I want.... speed isn't necessarily of the essence.

They can't give me a proper quote until I actually have some panels to bring to them, and as that will be in three batches the quote will vary for each. But that said, if the doors are going as well, I might well get everything done together.

Will start collecting panels and take it from there.

So... anybody got a hoard of quality steel panels anywhere nearby? Paint finish unimportant.
Speaking of which...

redrover said:
PS: Will post up some pictures of what it looks like now as 'before shots'. The picture in my signature below isn't really a true reflection. I have a knack of being able to catch it in the right light with a quality camera and it looks pretty good. Anybody who saw it on the stand at the NEC will confirm that it's cosmetically seriously below par. Certainly not a patch on what it looks like under the bonnet or inside - those pictures are a true reflection. The 1980s Ford red 2 pack paint is on top of original Cameron green. Original paint wasn't rubbed down properly, so where it hasn't chipped off, it's reacted and gone pink. Rubbing it with a chamois is like dragging a tack cloth across emery paper!
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Well it looks like panel collection has begun. I'll shortly be picking up a very good set of wings from Chris W, so need the remaining panels and bits of trim. PM me if you have any of the below. All panels need to be solid with minimal rust, but completeness of trim or paint condition is irrelevant as everything will be stripped and bare metalled anyway.

- 4 solid doors - S1 or 2
- "Series 1½" boot lid - 1969-71 (See below). Separate R O V E R letters on bottom left, TC 2000 or V8 3500 on right hand side. IDEALLY with bootmount kit or at least boot mount holes. WHYG?
- S2 4-cylinder front valance (differs from S1 - slotted holes for alloy grille are placed differently to black plastic grille holes)
- Rear valance
- D-pillar quarter panels - S2 (black vinyl) or S1 any colour.
- Rear decker panel.
- Roof! Steel - with or without aerial hole - (Rich rockdemon - can I still have dibs on yours?)

- Pair of front side light lenses
- Pair of rear light clusters
- German spec back bumper anyone? :D
- Sundym side windows (or just the glass?)
- 4x good S2 door handles

^^ OR.... the contact details of a very good (but not stupidly dear) re-chroming company.

Sure there will be more things as I go.

If anybody fancies swapsies, I may shortly be selling a full set of 5x 3500S steel wheels complete with trims (delay is me gathering everything I need for SD1 wheels!). Wheels stripped and painted gloss black, perfect and no damage to rims. Trims in near perfect condition (one slight inch-long hairline crease to one, but as good as you'll find outside of NOS), black areas painted original satin black with brand new centre badges. No tyres. Just add rubber. Includes brand new fitted Gorilla chrome wheel nuts (similar to original and triple plated) £120 the lot. Will be a few months before ready to sell, but if anyone wants first dibs... shout

This kind of boot lid:
2003aug_01.jpg
 
Doors are pretty difficult to find... Took me over 6 months and even then they werent as good as they looked once Richie took all the paint off.
 
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