1967 2000tc SGN

stue1972

Active Member
#21
harveyp6 said:
stue1972 said:
Anyway continued to remove the gearbox and found this in the bottom of the bellhousing.
Any ideas where its from as I cant see anywhere obvious.
It's part of an inertia starter motor.
Ahh I thought maybe that once I got home.
Starter does work but bottom bolt hole is broken so will need changing anyway.
Just got to decide now whether to use the box I have or source another.
Thankyou for all your usefull info
 

stue1972

Active Member
#22
harveyp6 said:
stue1972 said:
Found another problem whilst removing propshaft and that was the fact I could turn it with the wheels on the ground.
fault with the diff I guess, (would a series 2 2200 auto be the same??)
That's why I asked if the speedo worked...
Maybe my speedo just doesn't work too :) :)
 

stue1972

Active Member
#23
Just a small update without photos I'm afraid.
On Saturday I removed the diff from the car and have now removed both rear calipers so can take them to work and strip down and rebuild.
Both my rear discs look useable and should just need a cleanup so that's all good.
And also I had a closer look at my starter motor and it would appear that the broken piece I found in the bellhousing wasn't from this starter motor so guess it must have been changed in the past although will still have to change it as the corner of the bottom bolthole is broken off.
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#25




I'd need a clearer picture of the release bearing sleeve to be certain but that looks like a mismatch between the sleeve and the pressure plate.
 

stue1972

Active Member
#26
harveyp6 said:




I'd need a clearer picture of the release bearing sleeve to be certain but that looks like a mismatch between the sleeve and the pressure plate.
Damn just looked and don't have a clearer pic here and the cars not at my home.
Will get another pic soon and post it up.
What should it look like as can visualise it in my head
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#28
stue1972 said:
Will get another pic soon and post it up.
What should it look like as can visualise it in my head
The release sleeve to match the pressure plate you have (with the pad in the middle) should be a flat plate. The later ones are rounded, so they act on the fingers of the pressure plate.
 

stue1972

Active Member
#31
harveyp6 said:
stue1972 said:
Will get another pic soon and post it up.
What should it look like as can visualise it in my head
The release sleeve to match the pressure plate you have (with the pad in the middle) should be a flat plate. The later ones are rounded, so they act on the fingers of the pressure plate.
I'm fairly certain it is flat but will be checking for sure.
Cant decide whether to change complete clutch as plates a bit low but is a bit of scraping on the outside of pressure plate where the dog from a starters been rattling around in there.
 

stue1972

Active Member
#32
stue1972 said:
harveyp6 said:
stue1972 said:
Will get another pic soon and post it up.
What should it look like as can visualise it in my head
The release sleeve to match the pressure plate you have (with the pad in the middle) should be a flat plate. The later ones are rounded, so they act on the fingers of the pressure plate.
I'm fairly certain it is flat but will be checking for sure.
Cant decide whether to change complete clutch as plates a bit low but is a bit of scraping on the outside of pressure plate where the dog from a starters been rattling around in there.
Didn't get another photo but just to confirm it is flat so that's the early clutch yes.
 

stue1972

Active Member
#34
Have to get my welder mate to come take a look now as its a lot more for him to do than I first thought.
Really needs
both sills
both front splash panels+ couple of patches in front arches
all jacking points sorting
boot floor
bump stop mounts.
Wouldn't have been a problem to do the welding myself a few years ago but don't have the facilities to do it anymore.
Fingers crossed he'll take it on
 

stue1972

Active Member
#36
Guess my choices are patch up the sills and get them continuously welded or get new and done correctly which will be stronger and last longer.
Need my mate to come and look and go from there
 

stue1972

Active Member
#37
Another of my million and one stupid questions is where is or should my chassis number be.
Thought it should be on inner wing somewhere but I cant see it for the life of me :?
 

stina

New Member
#38
Stamped into the inner wing ( not on a plate ) drivers side , above the wing with the bonnet open , can look a little faint some times :D
 

stue1972

Active Member
#39
stina said:
Stamped into the inner wing ( not on a plate ) drivers side , above the wing with the bonnet open , can look a little faint some times :D
Thankyou.
I will take a closer look when I next go over lockup now I no where it should be. :)
Was on both sides and quite clear on my white series 2
 

testrider

Active Member
#40
My '67 TC has a plate in the passenger side inner wing just by the bonnet hinge, it's only tacked on though and the numbers are feint.

Your sill might have only been tacked on, but they're bigger tacks than the ones holding my V8's sill together.

 
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