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Glad to see, despite your steep learning curve, your hooked. Pretty sure you will find a solid base unit motor somewhere, as you now hopefully have learned get this bit and forget about the rest of the car if its cheap enough as you can sort all the other bits.......a good one should still cost...

Thanks to all those who came an took away the Rover bits, Glad to report nothing went to the dump or in a Skip.

Miller - A club member is going to come for the bulk of the stuff on Monday, I'll post up whats left - PM me if you want it then.

just sold my last P6, gave the buyer most spares but some stuff left, falkirk, phone me for details 07787 861738. must go this weekend or will take to dump. All FREE + a coffee ! you will need a big van or tralier for the bonnet. Renewed club membership as cant see me never having another, but...

got all this in o grade metal work back in 1980's & and also all the info on ACME threads, bsp etc off course long since forgot!:D

Should the web master instantly remove this blatant but useful advertisment by a trader and then the club committe off him the oppertunity to advertise in the magazine and in the for sale or suppliers section?????????????

Should the web master instantly remove this blatant but useful advertisment by a trader and then the club committe off him the oppertunity to advertise in the magazine and in the for sale or suppliers section?????????????

Should the web master instantly remove this blatant but useful advertisment by a trader and then the club committe off him the oppertunity to advertise in the magazine and in the for sale or suppliers section?????????????

try the suppliers that advertise in the club magazine they have the correct grommet etc

try the suppliers that advertise in the club magazine they have the correct grommet etc

well that is what the specalist that stripped it told me, just needs a rebuild with all new friction parts, no mechanical damage or wear. its in bits, in 2 boxes and stored indoor no V8 car so no longer need it as spares - some one come and collect it soon for free or in the bin it goes Falkirk...

having sold my V8 a few weeks back I have a spare v8 diff, bottom links, de-dion tube & arms with 1/2 shafts and a used radiator free to anyone who wants to collect from Falkirk 07787 861738. Derek I offered them to the buyer who was going to come back with a tralier but did not say when...

well done mike

well done mike

well done mike

best P6 brakes I have ever had, even comparing with a newly disc'd & padded V8 are the ones one my 2000sc auto. Even the MOT guy commented on them last week when the MOT was passed, they stand it on its nose no problem :D, of course, before anyone else says it, as its a 2000sc auto by the time...

front disc min thick 11.43mm, 12,7 new rear disc min thick 8.38mm, 9.65 new. thats from the factory manual. I assume a machine shop is going to grind/skim the discs - make sure you have a dail gauge to check the run out when rebuilding, and be aware the thnner they are, the less effective...

before worrying about the performance - which should feel lively, steering should not be vauge although a little play at wheel (1" or so I think) is ok - look for rust - remove back seat bases they lift out and look for rust towards the out side of the car - your looking at the inner sill, check...

chris it is possible to get soild rust free base units that have never been welded. I know because there is one in my Garage. Being relaistic of course as its been use since 1972 there are little areas of what you may expect underneath of slight rust/surface rust, but as these are well protected...

JC - yes the car I needed the wheel nuts for was rebuilt and sold. I got this car for free and it only needed the inner sill on drivers side welded, any more and I'd have broke it - it was bought from me for more or less what I spent on it by a guy locally and he is happy enough with the car...

bin it, find a good one. unless your after an awful lot of welding & purely for the pleasure of rebuliding. JC - your not the JC from the MGOC forum are you? - if so I've just sold my P6 V8 last week, it needed no welding.... :) There are good cars around, and now you know where to look, and...

sounds like you may have lost 3 small rubber spacers which fit bumps on the casing which help hold it in place -also there is usually a metal plate not shown in diagram held on with large worm drive clips. Factory maual says not to remove any of this lot as its 'balanced' at assembly to tune out...

sounds like you may have lost 3 small rubber spacers which fit bumps on the casing which help hold it in place -also there is usually a metal plate not shown in diagram held on with large worm drive clips. Factory maual says not to remove any of this lot as its 'balanced' at assembly to tune out...

sounds like you may have lost 3 small rubber spacers which fit bumps on the casing which help hold it in place -also there is usually a metal plate not shown in diagram held on with large worm drive clips. Factory maual says not to remove any of this lot as its 'balanced' at assembly to tune out...

Best to leave them on car - put the piston back in that has come out then start engine and pump brakes - servo will have enough oomph to push out. best to remove pads after first attempt, then pack spaces with wood leaving a gap so pistons come part way out- continue to do this packing evenly...