Who are the best vendors of the correct wire and connectors with which to properly repair my old loom?

mrtask

mrtask

Well-Known Member
Before I start asking the search engines I thought I'd ask y'all, who is the best vendor of the correct wire and connectors with which to update my 50yr old wiring loom? I need to renew the white and brown wire from the alternator backwards. I'll be asking more questions about where that goes in another thread! I want the right colours and rating. I'll need the right terminals or whatever they're called. I expect I'll learn the proper terminology as I proceed, if you're all patient with me! Oh, and I'm in the UK.
 
And a quality stripper too! Makes a world of difference. If any soldering is involved, get a good temp controlled unit as well.
 
Thanks Richard, JP. I will buy some good tools. I have a cheap crimper/stripper, but it's just crap! I've watched a pro mechanic friend of mine work with his quality electrical tools, installing high end stereo gear in Bentleys and the like. They look really satisfying to work with, and as he remarked at the time, when you crimp a connection with them, it stays put. The ones I've made with my cheap crap tool didn't remain on the ends of the wires for very long. :( Buy cheap, buy twice!
 
I use AES for my wiring parts, partly because they are close to me and I have always had good service. Their wire catalogue gives sizes & current rating. Welcome to Auto Electric Supplies
I would just add that I generally use crimp connections using the correct crimp tool
 
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The 11AC is a 1/2 Lucar spade (female) and the 18ACR (or many others) is a Lucas/Bosch alternator block. This contains 2 * 1/2" Lucar spades and 1*1/4" female Lucar spade for the excitor cable.

The original connection are both crimped and spot welded - it will be difficult to do this. They are NOT soldered.

Lucas/Bosch Alternator Plug

I would use a heavier gauge of wire the standard ones are a bit towards the minimal end of the scale. If you have the 11AC, I'd swap it out because it really isn't much better than a dynamo.
 
When I worked for Rover Group, I asked this question and was advised that crimping was more reliable both for initial assembly and long term failure. I cannot remember exactly the long term failure mode but it was something about the interface between the solder and wire. The problem of DIY crimping is getting the pressures exactly right for every connector & wire combination and I must admit soldering as well if I am unsure .
 
Demetris said:
Why not crimp and solder? This is what i normally do.
Click to expand...

Solder flows up braided wire and it becomes rigid and therefore brittle if flexed - effectively "work hardening". @roverp480 is quite right that for applications where durability is required, crimping is the preferred method. It's standard not to solder wire in application involving vibration particularly. Crimping done correctly is considered a "cold weld". In the case of original wiring looms they also have an actual weld. I posted a picture in another thread asking similar questions.

For the reasons @roverp480 says, I never use those red, blue or yellow insulted crimps - I always use uninsulated with a boot. The reason being you have the reassurance of two crimps one around the conductor one around the insulation. And in addition you can visually inspect the crimp and tighten it if necessary I absolute hate bullet connectors as getting a reliable crimp with the basic tool is really difficult, more often than not, I use a vice to do it.

But the key as ever is the right tool for the right job.

Colin, you must have known that given your aviation background.
 
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Perhaps i am exagerating here, because i am talking about examining crimps made 30 to 50 years earlier, but i find almost always corrosion in the copper strands, that has a negative effect to the contact with the connectorn not to mention strands breaking up. That's why i started adding a touch of solder to a crimp, just to retain the least possible resistance in the contact between the wire and the connector for a long time, and not to keep the connection stable (that's a job for crimping). If you are carefull when soldering, you can keep the solder within the crimped part of the wire, where i believe it won't have the problems mentioned above.
Of course all these timescales are somewhat academic, we are talking about 50 year old cars, and we are seeking solutions that will extend the service life of these wiring looms for at least another 50+ years!
 
Just repeating the established engineering on this one. I soldered my alternator connections to the connector that goes to the floor post. As per original the alternator connector is welded so it doesn't oxidize and doesn't have the problems with solder. So I guess you can't win unless you have a spot welder.
 
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