v8 still not right

ok was ok? but now idals bit low but when i put it in gear it dont have power?? apart from that when hot reverse slops? :( :( think if dont sort it soon it will have to go??
 
chris_v888, From the symptoms you have described particularly the popping in the carburettor and the lack of power it would seem that the some of the lobes on the camshaft have worn away. As symes has alluded to, the rear lobes are particularly prone to this. You need to follow his good advice, cut to the chase, and remove the inlet manifold and very closely inspect the camshaft and the cam followers for excessive wear. Hope this helps, Kind regards, Alanj.
 
alanj. said:
and remove the inlet manifold and very closely inspect the camshaft and the cam followers for excessive wear.

Rather than remove the inlet manifold, just run it with the rocker covers removed, it's just as effective as a diagnosis method, it's quicker and easier, particularly if you find out on investigation that it's not the camshaft worn after all.
 
The reason too remove inlet is so you can see and bent push rods---and yes it does happen But from what going on===CAM
 
Hi Harvey,
That sounds a good idea with the points nut, where exactly do you put it or is it obvious when I come to it.
Although when I fitted a replacement "moving plate" due to the wear in the pivot bush I still get some slight movement in the points gap (dwell angle) but only minimal
Regards
DAV8
Dave
 
DAV8 said:
That sounds a good idea with the points nut, where exactly do you put it

Thread the nut on to the threaded end of the adjuster with the "flat" side of the nut first, screwing it on until the nut comes into contact with the nylon insert. (The bit with the stripped thread.) Once the nut is in place try the adjuster and you'll see that the friction between the nut and the insert is enough to stop the nut turning. Over time, and with each dwell adjustment the nut will sit itself in place nicely. I always used Lucas points, and the nut on those had the same thread as the adjuster. Presumably other makes of points will be the same, but check first. If the nut doesn't screw on easily then the threads are different.


DAV8 said:
is it obvious when I come to it.

It will be. Looking at it is easier than explaining it.
 
i ant got a cule now box slipping running pants and hag to start have to mess with gearstik think time to bin that engine box and get my brain back in gear think the 4.6 or 4.0 l but will look into what it is going to cost me and how hard it all is to do?? thanks all :(
 
hi all you have all read my post bu to narrow things down a bit the bloke that owend my rover said he had oil dripping from inhibutor switch? dose anyone think this is what all the problams ive had been down to this as car wont start at all now? thanks all
 
chris_v888 said:
hi all you have all read my post bu to narrow things down a bit the bloke that owend my rover said he had oil dripping from inhibutor switch? dose anyone think this is what all the problams ive had been down to this as car wont start at all now? thanks all
Well an inhibitor does what it says=stops---so I would think it would be your problem--as far as starting goes--just bypass it =to see if it is faulty---if after bypassing it-the car starts then the switch is fubar
 
well spent the arfternoon tinkering got the old girl going yep inhib naff then had look at dizzy looks ok chequed spark on the even bank no 2_8 nothing so didant bother with other side i just took plugs out and cleaned them no 1 2 7 8 where black n sotty 3 4 5 6 littal gray brown witch i think is good? but bit to rich on others think this could be the boulk of my problam? what ever next? thanks all
 
well was getting there made some ajustment cleaned all wier conections and thought we would go for a drive today :LOL: started was worming up whent to put it in reverse and bet you all got it :LOL: nothing no reverse so i think im going to brake the old girl as run out of money now thanks for all the helpe will let you all know if i change my mind :?: :?: :?:
 
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