Upper and lower ball joint puller
- Thread starter Colin T
- Start date
Top ones come out fairly easily usually without a special tool.
You’re better off making or getting a bottom joint tool made.
Here’s one I made from steel offcuts I had. As you can see they can be very tough to remove so make the top piece from something substantial or braced- channel would be better as a lot more resistant to bending.
The joints regularly pop out of their sockets so need welding to remove the whole joint. The heat from the weld probably helps loosen things too.
Not pictured is a section of the correct sized steel tubing which the tool sits on to keep things centred, and that the joint can be pulled through
Jim
You’re better off making or getting a bottom joint tool made.
Here’s one I made from steel offcuts I had. As you can see they can be very tough to remove so make the top piece from something substantial or braced- channel would be better as a lot more resistant to bending.
The joints regularly pop out of their sockets so need welding to remove the whole joint. The heat from the weld probably helps loosen things too.
Not pictured is a section of the correct sized steel tubing which the tool sits on to keep things centred, and that the joint can be pulled through
Jim
The lower ball joints are difficult to remove. I made up a rather rough looking similar "tool" to remove mine and also welded the ball joint. Note the bend in my tool and Jim's after use. Make is sturdy! Mine was far too weak for the job and certainly for reuse. Not showing in the photo is the other solid plate the bolts pushed against. You can see the simple piece of pipe I used as a spacer between the flat plate and the suspension assembly to push against.
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I made a puller from a piece of tube with a 56mm inside diameter and 3.5mm wall thickness, and an old motorcycle sprocket and washer as the reaction plate. I used two lengths of tube as I cut the first one too short to take the joint all the way out. I just wound the nut on the balljoint spindle down against the sprocket, took up to 100 lbft of torque, and lots of heat and WD40, but eventually it came out.
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These are the tools that I used for lower ball joint removal and refit. Echoing Harvey's advice, do not remove the splines from the ball joint prior to fitting. They will be compressed upon fitting delivering a significant increase in force required for removal at a later date. The degree of interference is the factor of safety built into the design.
Ron.
Ron.
This company in New Zealand can either repair or remanufacture the required ball joint.
Ball Joints | Bricon Engineering (briconengineeringgroup.co.nz)
Ron.
Ball Joints | Bricon Engineering (briconengineeringgroup.co.nz)
Ron.
Did a bit of digging Peter and found these two, one in South Africa, the other in Queensland Australia.
Mr Ball Joint
Ball Joint Repairs | Sunshine Coast | Balljec Marketing | Balljec Marketing
The company below manufactures stabilisers. Don't know if they offer items suitable for the Rover.
Link Stabilizers (delphiautoparts.com)
Couldn't spot any within the UK that refurbishes ball joints.
Ron.
Mr Ball Joint
Ball Joint Repairs | Sunshine Coast | Balljec Marketing | Balljec Marketing
The company below manufactures stabilisers. Don't know if they offer items suitable for the Rover.
Link Stabilizers (delphiautoparts.com)
Couldn't spot any within the UK that refurbishes ball joints.
Ron.
These chaps might be able to help you in the UK: UK Manufacture of Track Rod Ends - Amsteer Sales Ltd
There is a method of injecting acetal plastic into the ball joint to restore it. This guy made his own tool, but there must be a company in the uk that’ll do the same thing.
These guys in the UK will do it. https://wheelalignment-in-liverpool.business.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral
These guys in the UK will do it. https://wheelalignment-in-liverpool.business.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral
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