Side plate Bolts ?

P

P6-SI

New Member
Hi Everyone, I am about to replace the side plates on my Rover but I am quite worried that I might damage the old bolts when removing them. Does anyone know if these bolts are still produced or if not is there a place that sells any. Some of mine look like they have been down on the Titanic for 99 years and have rusticles on them lol. Any advice you have would be most welcome. :D

Cheers

Si
 
P6-SI said:
Hi Everyone, I am about to replace the side plates on my Rover but I am quite worried that I might damage the old bolts when removing them. Does anyone know if these bolts are still produced or if not is there a place that sells any. Some of mine look like they have been down on the Titanic for 99 years and have rusticles on them lol. Any advice you have would be most welcome. :D

Cheers

Si
Click to expand...

I would think they are fairly standard items - do you have a workshop manual, as they may be listed in there with the correct size and TPI.

You can still get UNF and UNC bolts of every description, so hopefully it will be one of them. I have just bought some 1/2" long UNC bolts but could only get 1" long UNF - I needed 1/2" long ones of both. So I just cut them off.

Richard
 
I got some from a shop (via the net) in Camberley Surry. Got them slightly longer too, when I get home tonight i'll look in the guarage as I ordered a few too many. IIRC it's 26 bolts each side. Well worth replacing them all, my old ones were in a shocking state.

I'll post an update later, I'll fish out the recipt for you. But a quick google should find a supplyier. Be carful for ones on eBay as they can be made of very poor metal. I got some 'show' bolts for my bike a while ago for the rear sets. They were made of some kind of pants alloy that were very week. Lucky a chap at the local bike shop noticed them and warned me, when I took them off they had started to fracture, within a few hours of fitting them! :shock:
 
i think jrw sell them, maybe it was just the longer ones for the repo side plates.

Colin
 
P6-SI said:
Hi Everyone, I am about to replace the side plates on my Rover but I am quite worried that I might damage the old bolts when removing them. Does anyone know if these bolts are still produced or if not is there a place that sells any. Some of mine look like they have been down on the Titanic for 99 years and have rusticles on them lol. Any advice you have would be most welcome. :D

Cheers

Si
Click to expand...

Hi Si,

The screws are 1/4"-20 UNC with a binding head, and there are 22 each side. IIRC they're just under 1/2" long under the head.

When I did the side plates on my 2000 last year I used a butane blowtorch and put the screws through a few heat & cool cycles, together with a few good doses of Plus Gas. They came out OK after that...thankfully! :)

And be prepared to be amazed at the amount of orangey crud you'll probably find when the plates come off! :shock:

Cheers,
 
Thanks everyone for your replies, I have some sizes to go by now so I will try and source some and i will come back on here once the job is done. This is my first attempt at P6 mechanics so i'm a bit nervous as it looks a bit awkward to get to. The plates and gaskets have arrived now so I will give them a coat of paint and get cracking. :?
 
Just had a look in my parts book, it show them to be 1/4 inch, UNC (coarse thread) with a plain washer, 15/32" length. It also lists an alternative "special screw" which has the washer built in to the head so to speak. 44 in total.

I would not use anything less than a SAE grade 5. I would put some never sieze on the theads. That way if they come off again, which may well be the next generation doing the job, then the job will be easy. Avoid hardware store bolts of chinese manufacture. I do not know if you have these in the UK, but they tend to have metric heads with imperial threads, and not be strong, and will cause confusion and swearing down the track if they ever have to be taken out.

James.
 
I've done a couple of engines & the bolts seem to mostly come out ok, probably down to the coarse thread. I've re-used the original bolts with no problems. Any replaced came from a spare engine.
 
Having one them a few times I would advise gentle pressure to remove. Try using a spanner instead of a big old ratchet until they are slack.

For the ones behind the oil pump you just need a decent length spanner to get in, no need to remove the pump. I have done it both ways and feel it is best to leave it on.

Colin
 
Many thanks everyone for your replies, I will try and have a go this weekend and see if they move with a spanner. I have given them a good dose of penetrating fluid so fingers crossed. :?

Cheers

Si
 
Hi ive removed side plates off my scrap engines and would just add the same dont force them if they feel tight lots of spray on them as they do snape easy if there rusted.
regards
marcus
 
Hi try these people

http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/A2_ ... .2500.html


1/4" UNC half inch set screws stainless A2 (bolts with thread all the way up to the head) willcost you 17.6p each. ( + vat + p&p which is very reasonable)

I use them for metric allen (and many other types) for my Suzuki bikes. The range is amazing, the website is very user friendly, shows you a picture of the type of bolt if you are not familiar with the technical terms (which I am not!) and automatically discounts as you enter quantities in to show the price you pay - you will be surprised how quickly the price goes down - for instance if you order 20 of the above it goes down to 13.6p each.

I have been very impressed by them :D

Robin
 
BPK973H said:
Hi try these people

http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/A2_ ... .2500.html


1/4" UNC half inch set screws stainless A2 (bolts with thread all the way up to the head) willcost you 17.6p each. ( + vat + p&p which is very reasonable)

I use them for metric allen (and many other types) for my Suzuki bikes. The range is amazing, the website is very user friendly, shows you a picture of the type of bolt if you are not familiar with the technical terms (which I am not!) and automatically discounts as you enter quantities in to show the price you pay - you will be surprised how quickly the price goes down - for instance if you order 20 of the above it goes down to 13.6p each.

I have been very impressed by them :D


Nice one. Thanks very much for the link, will go on there now and have a look :wink:

Robin
Click to expand...
 
I think you would be better off using mild steel bolts, with plenty of never seize on them. If you use stainless bolts in mild steel they will probably gall, and break off when you have to remove them. I have had this problem before in a grape press. I never got the broken bolt out. It was stuck there for good.

James.
 
BPK973H said:
Hi try these people

http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/A2_ ... .2500.html


1/4" UNC half inch set screws stainless A2 (bolts with thread all the way up to the head) willcost you 17.6p each. ( + vat + p&p which is very reasonable)

I use them for metric allen (and many other types) for my Suzuki bikes. The range is amazing, the website is very user friendly, shows you a picture of the type of bolt if you are not familiar with the technical terms (which I am not!) and automatically discounts as you enter quantities in to show the price you pay - you will be surprised how quickly the price goes down - for instance if you order 20 of the above it goes down to 13.6p each.

I have been very impressed by them :D

Pm sent.
Robin
Click to expand...
 
Having recently done mine with the engine in place, the bolts came out easily enough, but one recommendation I would make is to get a ratcheting spanner or you will go mental doing some of the fiddlier oners! 4000 turns per nut over 22 bolts, no fun when you cant get the ratchet wrench in there!
 
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