Reverse????

Welding was easilly sorted,and my MOT man is happy for another year, :D.
now to try and get a job to keep me sane :p and get the depleted finances back up again to pay for the TR's repaint.
Its been nice having a break from work but it drives you mad with not a lot to do all day :(
 
I've got a never ending list of projects that I could get on with if I didn't work, of course the trouble is I wouldn't be able to afford to do anything if I didn't work !, catch 22 :D
 
You can only do so much for free ??? then the bank manager starts wanting to talk to you :p
Just sent off 6 emails re,job enquiries,so hope I get a response from at least 1 or 2,, all 6 would be nice!!
I went up to the job centre on weds last week,I got details of 6 jobs that suited me,I rang all 6,and was told that job went 2wks ago,the advert should of been cancelled!! :angry: 2hrs totally wasted!! I couldnt help but have a pop at the staff there, who seem to want to do nothing to help the unemployed.
 
Then there's the problem if you work for yourself, and lack self control, you end up spending far too much time on the P6, while your customers get impatient and your bank account goes into the red.
Just spent the whole morning cleaning the engine compartment knowing I should be out there making money

Dick West
 
Oh I gave up working for myself 7 years ago, it's hard enough just doing the job without having to worry about where the money is coming from and whether the kids are going to get fed this week ! It's a pain having to answer to a boss, but at least I can sleep !
 
Funny how people have differing views, I've been self employed for over 25 years, and no matter how bad it gets, it's never so bad that I'd ever even consider going back to working for someone else, (not that anyone would have me.) Being told what to do has never been one of my strong points.
 
All companies bang on about good communications!!
YEAH RIGHT!!!!!! ???
most bosses/employers!!,dont listen to staff,
almost all employees!! dont listen to bosses,
all self employed,can easilly get carried away and dont listen to themselves. :p
I just want to retire early,and do whatever I want,whenever I want,and answer to nobody except my concience! :p :D :;):
In the meantime to anyone out there!!

!!!!!!!!!!...GIS--A--JOB...!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Hi Dave, congrats on the gearbox job, personally i would've taken the engine/box out together,(but then i have the kit for it :p :D )..don't get me started on the JobCentre front 'cause i'll be here all day :D :D...maybe i'll post in Grumpy Old Men later ???
 
When you state "miniture" torque wrench how miniture is miniture?
What size in mm is the nut/screw (bit you adjust)? Found the section in the Haynes but it didn't state, or i didn't find the size.
 
It's not the size of the nut on the adjuster, it's the very low torque figure. The setting is tighten the adjuster to 10lbf ft, and then back off one turn, and retighten the locknut. Most torque wrenches don't go down that low, and if they do they're working right at the end of their range so tend to be less accurate. That figure would be somewhere in the middle of the range on a minature torque wrench.
 
I've located a man with a wench. (opps sorry Wrench) While he's doing MOT's on Saturday morning i'm borrowing it. The Wrench that is!

I'll keep you posted.

Anybody need prices for P6 spares as he has some bits lying around.
I'll be leaving the house at 9am so get your requests in before then and i'll ask him.
 
pilkie 0 said:
After speaking again to Harvey,the consensus is that the rear band has had it, and needs replacing, and I hope no other damage has been caused.
I will let you know what I find when Ive operated on the 65
Click to expand...
Well,, ??? MMM!!! took the bw65 apart today,not too difficult,in fact it was easy really!! the rear band is knackered,,and the front one looks like its got hot!! looking at it,it does look like they,that is, the recon,£500 con men!!! :angry: only fixed what had broken,took my money, and took the chance that it would last out the 12 month warranty they gave me :angry: It really PI##ES me off people like that :angry: from now on I am going to rebuild things myself and just get the parts I need. I will show it to the guy I know,and hope he says just fit new bands!! there is a local supplier that can do the f & r bands and a seal/gasket kit at a very good price!!
Mike,, I will be calling on you soon for the address,l lost it!!
 
Firstly Pilkie, I'm glad my diagnosis was right, but seeing as I agree with you about the so called recon, that won't make you feel any better. I would also fit the front and rear clutches, which providing you don't take the pistons out you can do without the seal installers. Trouble is if you don't do them now who knows how long they'll last.
I've just got a Stag 35 box done for a mate of mine, and that was fitted with new front and rear bands, front and rear clutch plates, front and rear clutch steel plates, a diaphragm spring in the rear clutch, a recon converter and all gaskets seals and teflon rings. While we were at it we also uprated the rear clutch.
That's really the minimum that should go in if you want to call it a recon unit. Luckily it didn't need any hard parts (gear trains clutch drums etc.) Should be good for a good while now!
 
As the replacement bw35 is basically working well, I will take my time doing the 65, That is if I do do it!!
I am just trying to set up the kickdown cable,its crimp ring that you are supposed to set it by has never been crimped ? this leads me to think it may have been rebuilt, ??? fitted and not used much if at all,as it was an abandoned restoration when I bought the car. the last tax disc was '89' I think! Or possibly just had a new cable? I have to borrow a mates low lbs torque wrench and set,check the band.
I am setting up the kick down cable from the minimum on the thread,testing it on a quiet straight road,screwing it up a bit untill I get the change right,its a bit slow from 1-2-3 on slow throttle,it works fine thru all gears on full, and kicks down when I floor it,when it doesn't change 2-3 if I floor it for a sec then let off,it changes.Ive only done about 50 miles so it could still be a bit sticky from being dormant,I am just taking it easy for now,I dont usually hammer it anyhow,but no high speed motorway runs till I start trusting it more :p
 
New cables come with the crimp loose, you're supposed to crimp it in the right position while the sump is still off, but setting with no crimp to guide you just takes a little longer.
 
harvey,
Ive adjusted the cable all the way up/down a mm at a time,nothing seems to make the slow throttle change happen from 2-3 except a momentary foot down then lift off! the rollout down change also seems a little lumpy. The kickdown works fine unless I adjust the cable way to far to stop it working. engine tick over in gear is 6-700rpm. The full throttle up changes are fine,the middle throttle up changes,also seem a little delayed 2-3
Havent managed to borrow the low lb's torque yet,so havent touched the band. But no slip is evident,however,it does seem a little harsh when you first engage gear in the morning!As allways,I normally let the engine tick over for 2-3 mins first thing.
Any thoughts,idea's!!!

??? ??? :p
 
Delayed changes point to the pressures being too high, but if it shifts 1-2 OK but not 2-3, I would set the cable using full throttle (Not kickdown) and see if you have the same problem. Harsh downchanges, particularly the one into first as you're slowing down are also a symptom of too high pressures.
Adjusting the rear band should have no effect on the problem with the 2-3 change as it is involved with reverse only. The rear clutch is reverse and top (3rd)
If you can't get an acceptable adjustment on the cable, (although I can't see why you shouldn't, unless the box has a problem) either set the cable using a rev counter and a pressure gauge, or remove the sump and set the cable that way. Personally I'd give the box a little loger to settle in before I did that though.
First thing in the morning it's probably still on fast idle, so will be a bit harsh. If it's just on tickover it will possibly have a slightly higher pressure due to the fluid still being cold.
It's difficult to know without driving the car, but at any cable setting the light throttle and full throttle changes can't be altered independently of each other.
 
Thanks Harvey,
Thinking about it, it is a bit late from 1-2 as well! and it could be smoother!
But when ive done a test drive ,and I get back,it does still seem to clunk into gear when I run it through the gears, by selecting,N,D,R,2,1,R,N etc.its like the symptom when the tickover is too high!! Is it possible to easilly lower the pressure the box works at. Ive looked in the big red book,and either the govenor valve is sticky,needs a bit more running/mileage, or it needs adjusting ???
 
Backing off the kickdown cable lowers the pressure the box works at. The governor only alters the pressure according to road speed so if you're not moving it has no effect. late changes, harsh engagement and a clonk on the downshift into first are all signs of the pressures being too high, requiring the kickdown cable to be backed off. (Screwing the outer cable up towards the end of the inner cable)
 
Just been out having another look at the cable,now its all cooled down!!
It wasnt quite fully backed off! It got a bit tight/hot to twiddle by hand. I will fully back it off and have another play in the morning,starting with a 5 mile run to warm it up b4 adjusting it bit by bit. this time I will leave the air box off!!
Cheers for the excellent info :D my understanding of autoboxes is getting better :p
Will let you know tomorrow what happens. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top