My Rover 2000TC project

J

Jacktherover

New Member
Hey guys! I have just been given a 2000TC for my 22nd birthday which had been sitting stationary out in the open for 10 years without moving. To my surprise it started and was drivable (minus the fact that the brakes didn't work, and the clutch plate was shot) after just replacing the spark plugs and the battery! I have decided to make an attempt on restoring this beautiful beast in my spare time even though I know next to nothing about cars. I have managed to get my hands on the Rover manual which has saved my life and I am up to the stage where I have just removed the engine from the car. I will slowly be working on it bit by bit hoping to have it complete in roughly two years.

IMG_0221.PNG 2016-03-26 16.10.11.jpg 2016-03-26 16.10.16.jpg 2016-03-28 16.33.35.jpg 2016-03-28 16.33.43.jpg 2016-03-28 16.32.57.jpg

I have come up against my first problem, I have removed my air filter and I definitely need to change the air filter cleaner element.
2016-04-13 17.39.45.jpg Here is a photo of the current cleaner element that resides in my air filter, I am assuming that this is NOT the original filter as I have been looking around and the original filter appears to be circular. I have been looking around and it appears that I need the filter GFE1013 (the rover 2000TC filter) however is it possible to use the GFE1033 (the rover 2000SC/2200SC filter)? Should I use either one of these filters or should I just go straight for a brand new, modern technology filter?

Thanks
 
I'd suggest sticking to the original GFE2013. You'll need two of them.
What a superb looking project! It looks better than many running cars in the UK. Are you down under?
I don't know anything about export models so no doubt someone will correct me, but the battery under the bonnet of a UK car would imply its a Series 1, however the side trim and vinyl D post panel would be Series 2. The bonnet without bulges also say Series 1. What year is it?
 
Welcome to the forum.
If you keep the original air filter case then use either the original GFE1013 or free flowing equivalents of the same size.
The car seems to be an early TC (early vertical flow radiator, the coil on the nearside inner wing, washer bottle and pump if original...) dressed with some series 2 panels.
Dave, the battery shelf is there, just the battery is missing.
 
Awesome! Thanks for the tip. I sure am from down under, the guy who gifted it to me however is originally from Yorkshire, awesome bloke, he spends his life repairing Bristols.

You are right Demetris, I removed the battery before taking this photo, and the washer bottle and pump are original I think, currently cleaning it at the moment, it is a lucas pump so my father says I should change it. Apparently Lucas doesn't have a very good reputation, they are a light making company and their nickname is the "prince of darkness".

Willy I am not sure what year it is exactly, I will have to have a closer look and somehow determine what year it is.
 
So it's been a while since I have posted and I haven't gotten very far unfortunately! I have some questions regarding my car. I still have not been able to determine the model of my car..... seriously struggling here. Is there someone who can help me? If it helps, the chassis number is 41600709 B.

I have so far detached my gearbox from the engine block and have gotten my flywheel machined as it was in a bit of a state and I have bought myself a new clutch and oil seal for the rear part of the crankshaft as it had leaked all through the gearbox itself. On top of all this I have done a lot of derusting, cleaning and painting of things, bought all new hoses, a fan for the radiator, resleaved my brake and clutch master cylinders, bought new clutch slave cylinder. I am contemplating on getting my servo refurbished, should I do this?

I also have another question, I opened up the side panels on my engine block and found quite a surprise, it was filled up with a lot of rust and scale as can be seen in the pictures, I was wondering what the best way/cheapest way would be to go about removing this rust and scale? I also removed quite a bit of rust off the side panels themselves and found that one of them had completely rusted through in a section of it, I was wondering if I should wield a piece of metal over the hole or if I should buy a new side panel for it?

Photo 30-12-16, 5 43 15 pm.jpg
 
That amount of sludge is not at all bad after 40 years or so, they can get a lot worse.
I wouldn't bother trying to weld the side panel. If you clean it off thoroughly with a powered wire brush or similar, then hold it up to the light you'll probably spot numerous pinholes. And since it's such a pain to replace once the engine's in the car, you really don't want to discover too late that it's still leaking. New ones are available.
 
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