Inlet manifold "otter" switch.

WarrenL

WarrenL

Active Member
My "otter" switch, the triangular hoofandangle that sits on the top of the inlet manifold, is poked. It looks pretty yuck just for starters, and I've tested it in hot water and it refuses to work. JR Wadhams have just sent me an email advising that they can't supply a replacement. While I get them to confirm that we're talking about the same part (they list the switch on their website), can anybody direct me to an alternative source?

Failing that, since it only operates the choke warning light, is it possible to get a blanking plate and gasket?
 
Assuming that the Jag otter switch works in the same way and is the same size etc. SNGBarratt 01746 765 432 have them advertised for £21 (inc vat ) in this months Jaguar Enthusiasts magazine, their web site has them listed at £37.80 which is a little strange.

Never used this company so can't vouch for them - they also have numbers for USA, France & Netherlands
 
Cheers Chris - an earlier Google search turned up that very eBay listing, and I really don't want to pay £78 for one! At that price it'd equal the total for all the other parts I've bought for my current project! Wadhams (contrary to their email) have them listed on their website for £35, and £21 sounds even better. I'll chase up on the links below and report back.
 
that looks spot on! Their remanufactured part looks much better than the original and tends to confirm that originals are hard to come by! Knowing the same part does Rover P6 and 60's era XK engines - notably E Type but also Mk X I believe - pays dividends here methinks!

Chris
 
WarrenL - They have two otter switches, one choke and one fan - the cheaper one on your link is the fan switch
 
Oh dear, you'd be right, going by the title. What's the difference? Switching temperature? They appear to use the same gasket. Could one be used in the place of the choke version?

In the meantime I've emailed Rover Classics to find out if they have them, and I've asked JRW to check that we're both on the same page. I can't find them on the Rimmer Bros website so I've sent them an email too.
 
Otter switches come in normally open and normal closed versions also I am sure that they can vary in operating temperatures. I have one which is stamped with 74 and it does operate around that temperature.

Colin
 
The normal behaviour of my P4 warning light is that the light comes on as the engine gets warm, you then push the choke in a bit and the light goes out. As the engine warms up further the light comes back on etc.

This suggests that rather than being an "on / off" switch it allows an increasing current through as the engine warms up which is some how connected to the choke handle - which presumably has variable resistance related to position.

How this works isn't clear from the wiring diagram which just shows a couple of additional switches in the circuit.
 
It sure does: it might be worth flicking them an email. But so far I reckon the most likely candidate is the one available from SNG Barratt. The more expensive of the two, that is.
 
SNG barratt are usually a pretty good company to deal with. I'm just waiting for some chrome for an E-Type to come from them and they're one of few that do MK VI stuff too :)
 
I've just filled in an enquiry on SNG Barratt's website to find out the switching temperature and the type of contact in the £21 remanufactured switch. It's the weekend now, so I don't expect an immediate reply, but I'll report back as soon as I hear from them.
 
Well, SNG Barratt never replied to any of my emails but they were certainly quick to take my money off me, including what I think was an unreasonable amount of postage (compared to other parts orders from the Old Country), and the switch duly arrived today. It checks out as a normally open switch, and it fits neatly onto the manifold where the old one went. I won't get round to installing it properly until the weekend, but the early signs are promising, and I'll report back in full, with photos, when the work is complete.
 
Hi Warren, glad to hear you've got a replacement, but how did you get the old one out?

Mine seams to be stuck fast, resisting any attempts to lever it out through the thermostat hole, but yet it still leaks!
 
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